LingLing

there is a 5-8mm gap between the car and the glass. that's probably one of the reasons I didn't want to use the urethane at the beginning. would be bit cunt to get it right.

Do you mean a caulking gun or? That foam tape your looking at is just draught stop.. Its not the same... Smith and smith/ novus guys will have that double sided foam. I use it on sunroofs. Its acceptable to also use foam + urethane as well. Put foam on inside and a bead of urethane around it. Also, why do you want to remove them later? Caulking gun, yep. Nah, these Foam will soak water, the Toyota one I tested few hours before is still wet. Taking off later maybe when I do a whole car sand blasting. just maybe

Hopefully the weather will be good!

Agreed, Took me ages to clean half of it. Glue gun is expected tomorrow. I am guess, I place the glue first on the frame and slam the windows up with screws and clippers. Will have picture updates.

Right Done. Urethane FTW! That Toyota double sided foam tape is very close to the same material as I could find in mitre 10(only 1 side adhesive tho) You're right about the strength, but that's not what I am worried about. It soaks water...

Beaver, yeh, I actually found a perfect foam for the car, but also found out although they said It keeps rain etc out they ain't water tight, as I was very suspicious in the first place. The Genuine Toyota Foam Seal come out from my car is also piece of shit as I tested out. It's all pretty much the same as spongy material, it would soak and water stays inside it for ever. No wonder all these POS 80s corolla rust at the quarter window. I really want to go with urethane but Would it be extremely hard to take it out in the future?

arh, not really, The reason I use this foam seal is because Urethane is going to be extremely hard to take the window off in the future. Am I correct?

So I am getting this to put the quarter glass back on. The problem is I can't find any double adhesive sided one. Might just glue it on one side. Any better solutions?

So some of the rust repair work is done. Quarter windows rust was done by grind it back to bare metal. The one near by the fuel tank is done by cut and weld. Not the that tidy in terms of finishing. But he gave me 5 Years rust free warranty. Pretty happy with that and money is well spent. After taking the Rear bumper off, there was some rust at Lower Left wheel arch, both bottom of tool compartment. Because they ain't really at these places people can see, thinking to do some cut and weld myself later, and Probably wouldn't be fussed about painting them properly.

yeh, I think so.

Hey thanks tim bro i got it repaired. Wasn't that much worried about the metal i grinded as it will be a cut and weld job. I got garage Thank you again for your help Andy

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1983_T ... _1601.html you actually missing a few things. Housing/Pipe goes to the water pump. (saw one on trademe few days back, can't find it Now). One metal gasket for above. Small bypass pipe.(saw one on trademe few days back, can't find it Now). And two O ring rubber gasket for above. Prices for these individual gasket ain't that cheap. but if you change Everything including all gasket + water Pump + Thermostate is actually Cheap Price from Toyota( toyspeed, Mark 1I1).

Good on you mate, That looks like 16v 4agze? with top sprayed to black. What kind of suspensions system does it have? also any chassi reinforcements?

yeh, I thought it was 4agze but turbo. if it was a blacktop turbo then it made the deal even better. shit this thing went so cheap.

I was thinking about that. but then...really don't want to at this stage.

Done and dusted. The picture is very clear now. There is much less rust than I thought, and as you can see, even the first layer is pretty good. all the rust are pretty much just between the first layer and the factory sealant. Second layer is mint. Little bit concerned here, the bit Right under the fuel cap has LOT of surface BOG. He could have cut and weld the wheel arches and had to bog it to make to shape or something.

yep, that's cool. I will grind attack it see how big the rust is at the fuel cap. see if it is actually much bigger than I thought.

The overall car paint is 5 years old as Ed's mate is a good friend with the last owner. Had it for 5 years never done anything to it. It's hard to say, the rust that in the photo has been treated and hardened . i.e black in colour. I have not fully sand it yet tho.

we penetrated with a screw driver. First layer of steel is gone, the second layer is mint so far. We can see fresh steel. From what I am looking is fuck all rust, but from a repair point of view it's a technical job as two of them told me. The main reason, one of the repair want to take the fuel tank out is because, he doesn't want to weld next to the fuel cap. which would cause explosion.

yep, I see where you coming from. After I stripped most of the interior and took to the panel beater, I asked him to look for places that isn't original. He pointed out some places, and told me where has been fixed before, mostly just little bit of wheel arches and bottom of B pillars. He also mentioned it's very unlikely they would come out in short period of time if it has been good for last 5 years. Hopefully I wouldn't dispointting too much when I do my restoration. Yehp, I would perfer cut and weld as well. will get someone else to have a look at it, see what they say.

why do you guys think this car is full of rust? It has been rust repaired once before about 5 years ago, had fish oill pretty much in the entire car. and it is still pretty good condition expect the one under the fuel cap. the quater windows have never been off, I took it off because I know in experince there are usually have a rust or two. I do agree the best plan is to strip it to bare metal no matter how tidy the car is. I just don't have my own space to strip it down yet, not because of the cash tbh. hopefully after this rust repair, there ain't going to be any more bubles coming out at least in next 5 years or longer. Full restoration is on the list at some point, which would also be my engine and gear box and diff rebuilding time. So, which reminds me, maybe it is a good idea just doing a touch up spray rather than spraying half of the car. hmmm.

just to answer you question. Firstly, I have never said $200 is the exact cost. It's a minimun estimate cost I thought would be. Have seen 2 panel beaters so far, 3 rust repair. Quotes between 300-400. There is No other sturacture rust we could find on this car at this stage. Paint will exceed 1.2g mark.

agreed, F20C is hybrid of F20B and K20A. In Underworld theory, It is Faster, Stronger and more Powerful than Both. Cost a lot tho.

yehyeh, all good. Further discussion is not required here. thanks.

ok. nah, it's all good mate.