toyabusa

yea was kinda expecting the g/box to shit itself before this happened. ive been changing the oil and filter really often and giving it the best chance i could. there are a lot of options now, i was planning on turbo in the future, can get stroker cranks etc, just money will hold it up.

not really sure but i think it just started to pickup the bearings and then ran them and locked the big end to the crank. ( the cap looks like its been hot as hell ) in any case its pretty toast.

no chance man, just put up the rest of the pics have a look. was planning comming and still will be there just not with my car. at this stage my brother Ryan will be bringing his escort instead.

This is where the real fun begins, removing the sump. This is not where no 3 rod should be And this is not how it should look Looks like it ran the bearing, locked up, broke the rod bolts then snapped the rod off under the piston and flew around a bit smashing an oil supply tube thats part of the crankcase. ( hopefully maybe with any luck the crackcase is salvagable ish )

Went to a trackday on Taupo's Track2 on friday. Was really wet in the morning, car was very twitchy on the semi slicks ( i dont think they were designed to pump water ) swapped to some rally tyres on the back and couldnt belive the difference, they were really good. exhaust broke just after 4into 2 collector so had to wear ear plugs lol. In the next session seemed to not be pulling as hard as usual and then made a crazy noise and a big vibration followed by the oil light flickering, switched it off real fast. pulled the plugs and no compression on no3 cylinder. Got it home and set to work removing the head Found this- valves have hit the piston and piston has hit the head. ( thankfully not too bad, head and valves dont appear to be damaged )

Gaz, im gessing it was your cortina i saw outside BNT rotorua today? If so looks wicked man. Dean.

DO NOT "JUST DRAIN IT AND WELD IT" !!!!!!! An empty tank is more dangerous than a full one!!

oh yea found it on the kumho site, looks like it wont have enough grooving ( grooves need to be at least 17% of surface for events not on a permanent track) bugger. thanks anyway

anyone know of any 13inch semi slicks wider than 205? or even 14's in like 225 or 235?

Ngongotaha hillclimb was on sunday, got my undertray finished sat night. was wet in the morning and the road is one which isnt used apart from for the hilclimb so coverd in moss and really slippery. dryed out in the arvo and my fastest run was 59.4 sec, good enough for 3rd overall but 1.2sec off my class record i set at the previous round, not really sure what to put it down to ( cold road, not getting off the line well, shit driving, or my undertray lol) still got another round to go in march so there is hope of getting the 2wd record yet. Plan on using the trackday to do some testing with tyre pressures, swaybars, backyard aero etc etc. Have some spare axels comming so now im going to find somwhere to practice my starts which can make or break a good run on such a short event.

got the dash pretty much done, wanted to cover the top with swade fabric to stop glare on wind screen but cant find any anywhere so matt black for now. also going to find plastics that cover steering colum and ing switch. Got it all fitting tight, pretty happy with the results. Next project is making a full length under tray, (this is looking from front). Will make it two piece till the diff and it will direct air to the diffuser behind diff. ( front half looking from just behind front wheels) This is the driveline, on the left is the front driveshaft which bolts to the hayabusa output shaft and slides on the 4k box input splines at the other end, in the middle is the Parry reverse box and on the right is the driveshaft to the diff. This is the coupling that fits the input shaft splines ( you can see them poking through just to the right of the cross) and slides on a beefed up version of the snout the release bearing would normally run on.

Did the clutch today. Bolts that hold the pressure plate and springs felt loose so thinking thats what started the minor slip if not the whole reason it was slipping. Gave the steels a quick slap with the reconditioner. Replaced fiber plates and replaced springs with heavyer ones. Will be tested next sunday at hillclimb. ( 1.2km tarmac in Rotorua if anyones keen )

Went to an alloy boat building place to find out about swaging panels and the guy said take this for a couple days!!! didnt know me from a bar of soap!. going to see if I can buy it. just need to make front cover and fit switches.

Have been making a new dash. The one it had was a broken piece of plastic shit and an ugly alloy plate that didnt fit anything holding gauges that werent hooked up anymore, so I have started again. want to block off the battery and wiring so will make sides like these and a center consol also. its all 1.2mm alloy so its very light, will get swages put in to give it some stength and professional look. Just have to find somwhere else to get it done ( the swage in the dash took the last place 3 attempts!!! ) one day i will have a swager at home.

Oh yea i remember you man. Just wrote the info in driveline setup for anyone interested. Hope it all makes sense, let me know if theres any questions.

yea for the meantime whats ya name man?

thanks, yea tuning when i had the 4k. help me out with advice and things. I have left them now

happy to post up any info, theres no secrets. Its awesome there is this much interest. trackday sounds good count me in along with BSP ( my brother ) and his escort Dean Parry

Alloy oil cooler support panel Strut brace this is the air dam i made to stop air flowing under fiberglass front and direct it to oil cooler and radiator, 1.2mm alloy **** VIDEOS ****

these are the paddles that worked the airshift setup i had on the car Air shift actuator on back of engine, this is attached to the original shift leaver that we welded a longer piece of alloy to. Below this is the steering rack,above the actuator is the water pump, above the pump and slightly to the right is the clutch slave cylinder ( you can see the banjo bolt going into it ) the slave used to be bolted inside the bracket but to make room for the driveshaft we mounted it outside ,made a longer push rod to suit and rotated it 180degrees. To the right of the slave is the front driveshaft this bolts to the bike sprocket which we turned into a 4 bolt flange just like a diff pinion. The front driveshaft takes a very short and very angular route to a standard toyota k40 gearbox with the bell housing cut off and mounted further back in the car, the driveshaft has a starlet clutch hub inside it to drive the input shaft, it also has a couple of bearings so that the shaft can slide on the snout the clutch release bearing normally does, this allows for any movement between the engine and the k40 box. We run this gearbox in 4th gear all the time except when we use it for reverse, 4th is 1:1 ratio so its just like a straight through driveshaft. From here its just a shortend driveshaft to the nissan diff. You can buy a quaife reverse box but i couldnt afford one and had an excess of starlet boxes so thought we'd give this a try first, so far its without a doubt proven itself which is pretty impressive when you consider its getting fed output shaft torque after the busa g/box. air shift gave no trouble but when we first got the car up and running i was having a bad run with DNF's and decided it would be the nect thing to give trouble so got rid of it. Will get it back on at some stage but have got used to the shifter now and like it aswell. this is how i setup the clutch,

oh yea i remember your car,was a good day. top speed is 180kph which seems pretty good as it is mainly used on gravel where we're not really up there all that often, although at the last rallysprint i did we hit the limiter in 6th at three different times on the 10km stage. would like to gear it to about 200 at some point. latest issue is the clutch which started slipping the tinyest bit at taupo track day, have priced a new one and heavyer springs.lasted a lot longer than i was thinking it would and who knows what sorter hammering its had while on the bike ( i know i gave it some lol ) and im not shy with it off the line. turbo is defenitly happening, probly next year. i have some events i want to do as it is first.

sweet. yea he did the first one and kicked my arse after i had just spent way too much time and money building a 4k with quad throttles and link, week later we had a crashed busa in the shed

I bought the car wen I was 16 as a way back into motorsport after racing karts for a few years wen i was younger then having a break from racing mainly due to the cost of karting getting out of control. when i got it it was flat white and pretty rough but did have a demon 4k on 45 sidieys. I did every club event I could on appreticse wages befor a good friend of my dad turned up at home one day asking if we wanted to paint it CAT yellow to match his new venture the Caterpiller Experience here in Rotorua Wanting to freshen the engine at the same time i pulled it down and got to work. before long it got out of control and i was building a quad throttle bodied beast with 12:1 comp and link ECU. on the dyno it made 70kw atw from 1300cc and went pretty good. The injected engine was going really well and was 1st 2wd home at a lot of events but a second place to a starlet with a hayabusa engine at a big 1300cc field in maramarua was enough to convince me it was the way to go ( i had wonderd about bike engines for a while but was never sure enough to risk it ) a week later a crashed 04/05 busa was in the shed getting reved and skidded until the day came to dive in. with some chocks of wood, steel and a MIG dad and I got it underway The start of the alloy housing for the jazz fuel cell as required by MANZ Fuel cell finished, this is my dads handiwork, I think its awesome, the tubes are the overflow and the breather. big hollow where fuel tank was so i made a diffuser fibreglass doors and front clip for tarmac painted and signwritten

hi, yea my father and i built it. have plenty of pics i will get up but computers not having a bar of it tonight. should i put info with the pictures or in here?

This is my rally/hillclimb/track/whatevers on car. 1982 Toyota Starlet ENGINE :2005 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300R engine and 6spd g/box. toyota K40 g/box ( reverse ) SUSPENSION: Front- standard starlet front struts, KYB inserts,starndard springs ( dirt ), cut springs ( tarmac ). Rear- KYB shocks, kingsprings super lows ( dirt ) Cut springs ( tarmac ) DIFF: Nissan c20 van, shortened housing, standard starlet mounts, 3.5:1 ratio BRAKES: Front- Nissan bluebird single piston calipers and disks Rear- Starle front calipers, bluebird disks Willwood balance bar and twin master cylinders INTERIOR: MANZ 6point rollcage Jamex seats Jazz fuel cell in alloy housing, surge tank. mounted inside right behind seats Alloy door panels and dash OMP china steering wheel TYRES: Silverstone FTZ RR 205 60 13 Tarmac Dunlop 165 70 13 Gravel