japawagons

On 01/11/2020 at 13:06, Truenotch said:

^^ That's worth buying for the engine and jack shaft alone. 

Was a pretty healthy 12hp engine. I wonder who has it, I love their story though...

Miss my AG200, left it with 10-5.

Great bike to fall off. sliding around his paddock. Was actually pretty damn good on Trail Rides too. 

18 hours ago, Yowzer said:

Hey @japawagons how good is German engineering?

Are we talking BMW's or Radiators?

One of the important tasks for making  this bad boy road legal, was a handbrake. 

The original Handbrake and Gear Stick were mounted on a massive "U" shapped Panel that bolted up from underneath the floor. Pretty Italian. 

Basically I wanted to raise and shift the gear selector mounting position, I took it as an opportunity to completely remove this underfloor panel. Being that handbrakes a fairly redundant when circuit racing, I never got around to remedying the situation until now.

So I brought an El Cheapo Hydraulic Handbrake set up that I can put on my MSNZ Authority Card. I wanted to buy something of reasonable quality but also had the ability to be either vertically or horizontally actuated. I ended up buying a GKTech unit, which arrived promptly even during lockdown. "Essential" Car parts. Yeah Right.

Pretty sure, this is just a Aliexpress unit but hey it turned up quickly enough so I guess I can't complain too much.

Wasn't all that sure where this was going to be mounted so I drilled our the spot welds for the original handbrake cable bracket mount.

Looks like shit. I don't have any of the original paint I used for the interior, which is definitely a bit frustrating.

Feeling like a high strung anorexic these days.

All mounted. Decided on a semi vertical lever position. Feels natural enough, elbow doesn't jam on the seat. Underneath the aircraft alloy patch is the original opening for the handbrake assembly. As I have just mounted the handbrake with 4x Rivnuts in the floor, I was a little worried about the rigidity, being so close to this opening. I won't know for sure until I've plumbed it up and tested it in anger. But so far so good, feels solid enough.

Alloy tape looks way better than shitty not painted area. 'Cause Racecar.

So far I've added another 1.1Kgs, but it had to be done, the weight is in about the best position you could hope for, low down and very central. After the gains from my front doors, I'm still well ahead, so happy days.

I've got to decide whether I plumb the handbrake after the Brake Light Switch, or whether I don't worry about it and plumb the handbrake through the switch. I figure it's probably a good thing to have the brake lights come on when I'm tearing a phat cone slide.

21 hours ago, yetchh said:

Who uses a torque wrench to tighten wheels nuts? 

Everytime.

Just bought a new 1/2" Torque Wrench for home, after doing it everyday, I just can't bring myself to not use one on wheel nuts.

Well that kinda ended up drawing the same conclusion I did...

Well that's convenient. 

Just now, Yowzer said:

That's not true at all. You can very effectively tune an engine based on its own data. Most top motorsport does their final tuning on the track / strip based on datalogs.

For example if you want a comparative result of power to gauge changes, a differential calculation of the engine rpm will give you an incredibly accurate power curve. It won't tell you exactly what the power is without a bit of extra math, but it is sufficient for tuning purposes. I use this method all the time at work to spot dodgy cylinders / blown head gaskets etc

I absolutely agree, but please explain method. 

Fuck I have been away from interesting shit on cars for too long, my brain don't work no more. Ex Mechanic Decline is real and fuck it's quick.

Just now, Roman said:

Yeah the redtop engine was just a normal cam gear on the exhaust side. 

Never bothered fitting an adjustable one on it, as going to dual VVTI was always on the cards. 

Would the Standard exhaust Cam be relatively limited in the overlap that can be produced then? So unless the difference between the 2x exhaust manifolds is significant in regards to the clearance of exhausts gas on the exhaust stroke, then your unlikely to be able to measure a significant change in MAF.

If the designs were conducive to creating scavenging then you'd require Dual VVTi to generate Overlap and aid your dip??

Might be waaay off. Likely waaaay off.
 

@Roman

Am I right in thinking you are running a standard 3SGE Exhaust Cam without VVT?

Just now, Roman said:

Yes but with nowhere near the clarity of reading MAF
(Have done it both ways)

I think maybe because there are so many variables that contribute to your oxy sensor reading, where as a MAF is just reading airflow directly and very accurately.

At lower engine speeds/load, wideband latency is a real ball buster too. Where as MAF gets an instantaneous accurate value.
 

I feel like this very situation would be much more ideal for tuning VVT in general? Being able to measure the Air Flow increase or reduction in real time.

If you could fit a MAF as an overall tuning reference on a Dyno I feel like it would be a very helpful signal, even if it's outside the ECU loop.


Could you put a MAF or similar sensor in the exhaust also?

Just now, Yowzer said:

I think because of the advanced cam timing they can achieve the exact same results without the EGR valve, since the engine just stops pumping anyway.

I'm of the opinion that EGR is completely detrimental to Power and Effeciency and that is purely used to allow Nox reduction in a Startified Charge condition, because Nox would be prolific in that situation.

Just now, Roman said:

Off topic to the above, but something I'm hoping to gain some insight into when my dual VVTI motor is running again, and I've got two different exhaust manifolds to test (A long 4-2-1, and a much smaller lighter 4-1)

Is, will a MAF sensor see a change in reading based on your exhaust manifold? I'm thinking yes. 

If extractors pull out a higher percentage of the old bad gas from the previous combustion event, then there's more room for fresh air in. 

Which means more air gets pulled through the intake, which means higher MAF reading. Something you wont necessarily see just with a MAP sensor as MAP reading could be identical.

I'm looking to gain some insights into exhaust side VVTI tuning this way and then see if the big heavy 4-2-1 is actually worth keeping. 
 

This would only occur if you are using Valve Overlap??

Or if the manifold is not allowing full cylinder emptying on the exhaust stroke?

But yes, I'm sure you would see a difference.

Can I ask this question?

In a road vehicle where harmful emission reduction is not legislated for.

Does EGR aid in reduction of fuel consumption?

In the situation of pumping losses. BMW Valvtronic system uses variable valve lift to reduce the valve lift and minimize pumping losses rather than EGR.

Just now, Yowzer said:

Constantly. It's my day to day job fixing those stupid things.

On a petrol engine they contribute to fuel economy quite effectively, exactly how Romans graph shows. They reduce intake vacuum which decreases pumping losses. Modern engines take it a step further with their direct injection swirl valves by seperating the inert EGR gas to the outside of the cylinder and the air/fuel mix in the centre for a more efficient burn. It also allows for more EGR gas to enter the cylinder to "pack it out" as such.

I wasn't under the impression that EGR was used in a Lean Burn - Startified Charge Situation. 

Just now, ajg193 said:

Have any of you played with EGR (using a valve instead of cam timing) and studied the effects on fuel economy? I feel that could be quite a fun avenue to go down

EGR is used to reduce Combustion Temperature and intern reduce Nox formation at the outter perimeter of the combustion chamber.

My understanding is that it is purely for Emissions Reduction and does not improve Fuel Effeciency. 

I stand corrected.

Just now, ajg193 said:

Most chequebook setups I've encountered run the worst.

With regards to accel enrich, I struggled immensely with it until I invested in a good quality TPS and then the problem instantly went away.

The big problem with Chequebook set ups is budget.

Paying someone to tune your entire set up from Cold Start, to Full Load Power run, along with VVT maps and associated varying conditions is unrealistic cost wise. It takes hours. At between $100 - $200 an hour or more. Let alone if they're installing components and building custom wiring looms.
 

Only drug dealers have the kinda spare cash lying around for a professional tuner to build and tune an engine management system from scratch, and end up with a system that has 80 - 90% of the startabilty, driveability and reliability of a factory ECU.

Also they're constantly blamed for Failures, so on top of that, usually have super safe ignition tables and wildly rich fuel maps. Which itself starts causing problems.

Like anything you can get 70% of the result with 30% of the effort. The last 30% takes time, patience and understanding.

On 12/04/2020 at 01:20, flyingbrick said:

If ur worried just smash down a layer of glass first.

Ps, you watching the scrappy build? Well worth it for anyone wanting to learn how amazing cf is

On the subject of Glass 1st.

Would using an outter layer of carbon and then supported my 1-2 layers of Glass, aid rigidity but also balance cost?

Basically Glass weave is like $60 for 1mx10m. The equivalent in Carbon is closer to $400. Once you go to wider Cloth, it climbs further.


My plan is to build Glass, Guards and Bumper, then modify the glass panel, to make wider guards and a splitter mould, then potentially make these from Carbon.

But tbh, besides absolute critical weight savings and the wank factor of Carbon, I'm starting to think the cost and repair-ability of Glass makes it more attractive.

 Fuck I really need to find that properties chart I saw years ago, that balanced Carbon, Kevlar and Glass.

Double post.

Sorry about the rant. Total non technical Spam.
 

That GB is looking temptingly good. Floats my boat in all the right ways.

The tank colour is rad.

It might give you a clack, like a detonation event but even that's unlikely on a cold engine. 

In my experience, you won't even get a kick with no spark and engine start. Just a continuously rotating engine.

You should be able to pull a plug, and earth it and visually watch the plug spark cross the gap.

@cletus

Probably worth asking the question whilst I'm thinking about my plans. 

Dedicated Motorsport Vehicle with Authority Card.

Looking at modifying the original Engine Mounts to effectively make them solid. Using a steel plate welded in to join the outer and inner sections. 

Is there any reason this won't be acceptable when I get the LVV Cert updated?

Just now, Yowzer said:

Chuck the balance shafts back in and you'll be fine

 

Technically they are still in the engine. They're just no longer rotating. 

Engines in dire need of a birthday. Just checked the Oil Catch Can and it's full. Engine must be breathing pretty heavily. 

What I've learnt in Racecars is if everyone tells you it's a bad idea, it's generally a good idea.

Don't really want to chime in here, I imagine the frustration is overwhelming, even as a reader this is almost getting too much. 

So I feel your pain.

Does this setup happen to have a Inlet Air Temp Sensor post supercharger?

Assuming all the basics are ok, people are alluding to a cooling system change, is there any chance the flow of coolant has been disrupted? 

I doubt it's air, if your vaccum bleeding the cooling system etc, an air lock is very unlikely.