kdotlowe

Look what we have here. Had to do a mock up after painting the cylinder and head. Off to the machine shop tomorrow.

I made a vinyl one with a 3M reflective background for my dad's Corvette. Just scaled the whole thing down by about 15% to fit in the US spec valance. However being a 55 year old Chinese man in an old Corvette he's never had any issues with Police or WOFs. 

The end is in sight! Blasted head and cylinder. Once machined and installed the engine will be complete! 

Shout out to Yambits! +0.75 piston arrived alongside and new small end bearing. Cylinder and head are off next week to get blasted. Once painted the cylinder will be off to the machine shop for a a fresh bore & hone. 

$15 dollar exhaust arrived and it looks just as you'd expect - like a $15 exhaust. I'm happy enough.

Gave the wiring harness a once over. Other than a few crusty connecters it was in surprisingly good condition for the age. Also cleaned up the air box ready for some polishing & powdercoating. 

@Truenotch cheers bro! Looking forward to your build thread! 

Got carried away and installed the points/magneto. Realised that I need to find a replacement side emblem, mine is bent to buggery. 
Also placed an order with Yambits for a 0.75mm oversized piston. Toyed with the idea of going 2mm over, but I think I'll keep it conservative for now. Once the piston arrives I'll send the cylinder off to get a re-bore and hone. 

I've been busy. Missing one titanium bolt which is heartbreaking but hey, that's the right side done for now.

Clutch plates all installed. 

Oil pump assembly installed. Love installing parts when they're all clean & freshly painted. 

Found a box full of misc parts which contained some of the parts I required - the joys of building an engine from a box of parts. There's a few variations of the YB100 with mine being the earlier model. Seeing as this engine was in pieces when I purchased it, I'm not sure if a piece I can't find is missing or just not needed. Currently referring to 2 seperate schematics and unfortunately my engine seems to have pieces from both...

Installed the kick start shaft after a bit of fluffing around with gear orientation. Also installed the clutch basket.

Turns out my clutch plates are at OEM measurements. No wear on them at all. I'll be using them again so I've left them in some oil to soak overnight. 

2 hours ago, Chris.QCR said:

This is great to watch. One day id love to rebuild my spare YB100 motor for my F5 to this spec. Keep up the good work dude

Cheers bro! All a learning experience for me so here's hoping it runs! 

Sourced some Threebond and sealed the cases.

Installing the disc valve cover & gear selector. 

Looks like I'm missing a bunch of circlips and other misc hardware. Will have to dig around the box the engine came in to see if I can find everything before I can continue. 

Titanium bolts for the side covers, for no reason other than they look sexy. 

2 hours ago, HighLUX said:

Any yamaha dealership that sells dirtbikes should have it, failing that try somewhere that sells Yamaha jetskis

Tried that. Unfortunately all out of stock. I was pushing my luck and hoping to get some today haha! 

Tusk crank puller tool arrived today and made easy work of installing the crank. Not a cheap tool, but I think it will pay for itself if I'm rebuilding engines frequently. 

Can't seem to find any Yamabond locally and Threebond is ridiculously expensive so I may have to order some online before I can seal the case halves.

@Willdat? the email above that @subverse  posted is the one to use. You can phone him to follow up. He forgot about mine, but after a phone call it was through within the day.

It's Christmas time and I'm poor so I'm waiting till the new year before I splash out on some crank installer / case splitter tools. In the mean time I've been cleaning and painting bits and pieces to keep the progress going.

Oh and I bought a brand new exhaust header & silencer from China... FOR $15. Postage is around $80, so less than $100 for a brand new exhaust - I wonder if it will actually fit? 

Installed the new bearings today. Baked the cases for 45 minutes in the oven and left the bearings in the freezer overnight. Dropped in easily! 

Installed the transmission to make sure there was enough clearance to seal the case halves. Couldn't figure out why nothing would line up - turns out when I replaced the shift forks I accidentally put them in the wrong order, oops. 

Couldn't figure out why I had no first gear, and spent an embarrassingly long time trying to solve it. Until I remembered this bike has a GP shift pattern with N at the bottom. Doh! 

Will install the crank as soon as possible but judging by how hard it was to remove, I think I'm going go need a crank puller tool. Anyone have one I can borrow? 

Fresh out the oven! Ready to start assembly.

7 hours ago, chasinthemirage said:

Mwb with the fibreglass top I'm pretty sure. The rust is in the inside of the windscreen frame. Yeah the 13BT one I test drove was heaps faster but also a lot more spendy. This is it here 

https://www.trademe.co.nz/1865177963

They're so rad. Been looking at purchasing one too but man the prices have skyrocketed recently.

Made a little bit of progress today. Set the timing at 10deg BTDC and pulled the carb apart again. With some fine fiddling with the idle adjustment screw it will idle - roughly. I need to have a proper play with the mixture screw as it didn't seem to be doing much. Ran out of time but I'll have another play next weekend.

Video of it idling now.

Good call. Thanks!

Choice! Good list of things to try today! 

Will pull the carb off again, make sure everything clear and remove hay adjustment screw and see what happens. 

Thanks!

Cool! I'll pull the carb apart for the third time haha. 

Re: your second point about it potentially being a fuel leak, the engine runs better and will idle high when the choke flaps are closed which would indicate a lean condition right? Could I assume that I wouldn't be flooding the engine due to this?

Hi all,

Thought I'd quiz you lot before I throw in the towel and send the car to a professional.

My Escort (1600 X/Flow) is running like a bag of dicks. Won't idle. Can only keep it running by stabbing the gas.

I had the inlet & carb removed to give them a quick tidy up while I was swapping out my oil pump. Chucked it all together and can't for the life of me get it to idle. It will start up with some throttle and then will quickly slow down and die. I can keep it running by stabbing the gas occasionally or it will idle quite high once warmed up with the choke flaps closed.

So my thoughts are A. vacuum leak or B: idle circuit in the carb. 

I've done the following:

• new gaskets on inlet manifold & carb insulator. 
• checked for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner. (Can't seem to find any)
• stripped down carb (Weber 32 DGAV) & gave everything an ultrasonic clean & blew out all gallerys with air & carb cleaner - nothing seems to be blocked. 
• I stupidly removed the idle mixture screw when rebuilding the carb - but this seems to have little effect on the idle when adjusted.

Here's an example: https://youtu.be/AjBkuCH9ye8

Am I missing something painfully obvious? 

Any help greatly appreciated!