bubblegoose

have you done that mod? worth doing? also thinking of converting to full time rwd this weekend

try telling my carb that, took it for a test drive with no pumper and has no hesitation what so ever probably going to reconnect just to make sure it doesn't keep going lean on acceleration

whats the camber like on your car with the sigma arms?

haha if it misfired like it used to then id loose my face not my eyebrows nah its not missing any more just bogs down when the accelerator pump does its thing, just rolling on is fine and as soon as the fuel from the squirt gets thrown out then it runs mint might just disconnect the pumper

hadn't noticed that as i haven't got to the stage of putting discs onto the hub sigma lower arms the same length as lancers?

been dragging the net to see if i can find a cheap swap for my cams to give a bit more go and ive found this so far INTAKE Identification mark: A,D Cam height 35.49 (1.3972) Identification mark: B,C,E,F Cam height 35.20 (1.3858 EXHAUST Identification mark: A Cam height 35.20 (1.3858) Identification mark: C Cam height 35.49 (1.3972) Identification E,F Cam height 35.91 (1.3744) NOTE: The camshaft identification mark is stamped In the rear end of the camshaft. ID exhaust E and F are not listed in the 1993 service manual....only in the 1992 section. ID intake C and F are not listed in the 1993 service manual...only in the 1992 section. 1993 Valve timing DOHC cam ID mark (B,C) (A,A) (D,C) (E,A) Intake valve Opens BTDC 21" 26" 21" 16" Closes ATDC 43" 46 "51" 48" Exhaust valve Opens BTDC 57" 55" 57" 55" Closes ATDC 18" 9" 15" 9" 1992 valve timing DOHC cam ID mark (A,A) (B,C) (D,C) (E,A) Intake valve Open BTDC 26" 21" 21" 16" Close ATDC 46" 43" 51" 48" Exhaust valve Open BTDC 55" 57" 57" 55" Close ATDC 3" 15" 15" 9" -91-94 turbo 5speed cams are the most aggressive stock grind. (C,D) (but some 91’s have 90 cams (the shit ones)) -95+ turbo 5speed cams are not as aggressive as 91-94 cams but are still more aggressive than 90-94 non-turbo cams. -90-91 (early 91’s) turbo 5 speed cams are the exact same as non-turbo cams figured this could help a few other people our from what my feeble mind can figure out is using an intake cam from the B,C set and an exhuast cam from the D,C set should give the most aggressive set you can get from stock cams and considering i have seen these cams go for $30 each its fairly cheap

did that still runs great compared to before bogs a little if you stamp on the gas, im just guessing there isnt enough advance to cope with the fuel pumper as it picks up a second later at least now i feel safe to take it for a wof

ok so ive just been fannying around and though id link up the vacuum gauge to the dizzy, needle moves up and down (not sure what im looking for but its getting a good suck ) then took the gurage off and farted around on the lancer then went and took the brumby for a drive............. and its heaps better 'hmmm' me thoughts looked under the hood and noticed i had left the t- piece in the vac line WTF! would i be right in saying that with out the adv its running 5dbtdc all through the revs? and is it worth blocking the vac adv off and cranking the dizzy forward? if yay what too?

for cutting spark use a big red 'push for off' button linked to the power for you coil it has to be big and red otherwise it wont work

usualy cutting the spark with a set of carbies on WOT will result in a pretty big BOOM when you let the ignition back on (in my experience anyway) just make sure you have a strong exhaust system and ull be all gooood

is cutting of bump stops legit or should i find lower ones?

im not too fussed about the under side i just though id be 'different' and avoid using black black and black the car is in no way ment to be a pretty show car its just going to get raped every time i sit in the seat

stripped my motor down to bare bones today needs re-bore crank regrind new bearings, pistons and rings (naturally) more than i was hoping to do but thats cars i guess also probably the damaged caused by boosting a non boostable engine (pretty sure the some goon had done a half arsed turbo conversion on this N/A engine) so will have the rods and crank and block checked for strightivity

mocking up the gauge mounts for the dash rpm and 4 vacuums playing around with gauge and switch positions gauges are all good i think but switches are shit need to be all in a line

not hardened you want hi-tensile steel and yes i think manual bolts are longer best to get the flywheel first then measure up the bolts. i don't have any yet so i cant tell you the length

exactly the same one as in you picture but with the vac system still bolted on

Mitsubishi, not worth tarting around for second hand bolts, after all the wreckers may have had the same ordeal you had and the bolts could be starting to shear inside. or try a fastners place like black's just make sure they know its for a flywheel thats going to get raped by the driver

in fact screw the rims, sell the omega and buy a 505

puggyoat 505 turbo

sweet ill try that cheers if i can find one any simple upgrade for the dizzy while im at it?

got some damage on the rf guard but she'l be reet and some rough cunt just welded a bit of sheet steel over a big rust hole and painted over it in chassis paint dodgy poms

anyway here is a picture of the troublesome biatch thats now going to decorate my mums driveway for her note sweet roll bars i couldn't be arsed to go back and get the keys so an interior shot from a window seats are mint just dusty as hell

i got bored and painted lots of little bits in pretty colors again take note the black and silver is starting to make an appearance

sure is a lot of wasted steel haha just clears up the how its done questions [edit]; well that didn't fucking work time to warm up the welder again

all the leads, plugs the rotor and cap have been replaced with brand new ones i sucked on the vac adv line when i had the dizzy off it moves the armature but doesn't hold it, it slowly creeps back. is that good or bad? also the vac adv hose goes to the vac line on the carb right?