bubblegoose

most rust kills will double as a metal primer, very few primers are water tight so id get some top coat on asap even it its the wrong colour for now

use cam gears and cam belt? i know not of gear ratios but 1:2 should work?? front would be easy then use sweet lathe to mod rear hub?

it shouldn't if your head/block is flat and smooth

not always some have big gay circlips and some have massive PITA screw on tops

pretty sure i remember seeing factory toyota specs on a beam axle car saying the -5 was fine thats pretty huge for a road car anyway

most nissans/90's for sure have the same fitment

i like this idea. although wasn't there some magic pixie sand you could get made for big old diesels, bore hone in a jar

is now 2.2 degrees advanced and sounds like a vintage tractor/puurfic havent corrected the idle yet wont bother till ive cranked up the smoke screw shit got noisy and white at close to +4 degrees and made millions black smoke at -5

i slam mipa reducer in everything shit loves it

it hasnt been turbanated yet, just trying to give it a little squeeze for its trip to nats ie advance the timing and up the stroke/smoke thats what the internets told me to do anyway

smashed on my trans cooler gifted to me by andy gail and changed the ATF. note to self dont listed to girl behind counter RE. how much fluid is in the sump/get told 6.5L/thats for a dry system/more atf on my drive

i know its gets more clattery but im just after a clearer idea of the difference between crisp and too far it defiantly sounds less flat/sluggish

hello boys and girls, just after a bit of clarification and tuning the injection timing 'by ear' ive advanced it a little and now want to make sure its not too far advanced and only have my ears as tools, what exactly does too much advance sound like?

so i set the timing to the advanced side of the mark and as expected its much louder and the idle has dropped going to tweak it on the pump slots now, is there anything i should be listening for in terms of a sweet spot?

ah well, i dropped some retail coins today on some parts ill come see you about some tight bush /new bushes so my wheels dont fall off

cant pull 20 out of my turbo, ceramic wheel fail spec also $500 is about $500 more that id like to spend on this van

^ this, the more expensive brands do have a better UV resistance aswell ive taken to the spies clearcoat systems as it seems much more resistant to runs and buffs up alot faster

mipa is at the lower end of the scale along with metalux, lesonal, fortec and resene dupont, standox, ppg and debeer are your everyday good shit type paints rjp were probably talking poop any colour can be matched or made in any brand of paint, they probably didnt have the code in there computer due to it being old, ive had this issue before with them and automotive colours(ppg) give spray store a call they have a much better database of colour formulas and stock spies(good shit) and metalux(average shit)

would one mount the egt sensor in the headers or dump pipe?

so will my NOS LPG tank/bbq stz

collection of steel would be more accurate also are you at work tomorrow? i are need some parts to aid the van on its nats mission

yep you can snagle/snuggle all you like but not till after nats when my car has a new home

any of the bits from the lancer suit your needs? probably wont be using them

power box not hanging around? rack conversion?