Southerner

yea my grandfather has quite a collection os them aswell, dont think he is collecting them hoping that one day they will be worth mega bucks. Think he just enjoys them for the good cars that they are.

yea the light flickers from 1/4 of a tank aswell, yea it does suffer quite bad round town, but on the open its pretty decent, cruises amazing on the open road aswell. Goes much better since i redid the timing. This car has been my favourite car ive owned and would recommend them to anyone.

Yea thats what i thought it could be ill try that, cheers for the help

Ive got my mk 2 triumph, with a 2.5 tc engine with 's' carbs and the overdrive gearbox. A whole tank is 63.6 litres to fill so over $120 in 95 octane fuel. When driveing it you can get 280km out of the first half of the tank according to the gauge, but the second half goes down in 100km or 150km max. I am wondering if this is normal for a triumph? I understand that its a 6cylinder carbied car, and its heavy! Ive had it tuned up and put a new air filter in but this hasnt helped much at all. Any help would be greatly appriciated Cheers

Been driving this thing round quite alot and im loving this car. Really good on the open road! Got the other grill onto it Also while digging around in the shed i found these beauty rings, around 100mm wide As ive said my grandfather is nuts about triumphs which means we have heaps of spare parts Diffs O/D gearboxes are pretty common in his shed Ow and here is my uncles mint Bonneville And the part most of you triumph lovers will be waiting for( sorry the car is up on jackstands getting its gearbox swapped but ill get better ones soon) 2.5 engine transplant His other triumph, left hand drive tr6 imported from the states a few years ago The mint steelies it rolls with ballon spec tyres Thoughts and ideas welcome http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=31296

Went up to dunedin in the Triumph in the weekend to check out my flat and pic up a engine. Triumph went really well and drives like a dream on the open road. Under the cover was this Came with a td-05 turbo, yellow top injectors, extra fuel rails, loom and ecu. Also has the 6 bolt crank which is a massive bonus Hopefully getting a top mount manifold made up soon so i can sit the engine in the car. Also the mount that stickes out the front, i tryed to remove it but it looks to be part of a cam belt tensioner under the cover. Can anyone give me a heads up?

yea i have the steel grill for it out in the shed, just havent put it on yet. and a s spec steering wheel aswell. Grandad also informs me there is a 2.5block with .50thou pistons in it and there is a fully done head there for it aswell, so might get a cam done for it and slap it in. And ill get photos of the mk1 real soon

I already know that there are already afew A class Trumpys on this forum but thought i might aswell post my one up here. About 2 years ago my grandfather towed home a rusty Mk1 Triumph back to his house, and we all thought he was going mad from his old age. Early december last year he had finished redoing the whole car. Most nuts and bolts were replaced with new items, the diff from a mk2 was put in the rear, and a 2500 was put in the engine bay with a 4 speed overdrive gearbox. All done by himself. The outside was painted in a bluey green and the rims were painted a creamy colour. It looks mint to say the least!!! He also has a TR6 he imported from the USA a few years ago!! He is triuph mad. His next project is a PI he has in the shed. Ill take a couple of pics of these to cars soon. Well until he started dailying his MK1 he was driving around in this And when he towed home the Mk1 i said to him that when it was finished that i would purchase the Mk2 off him no matter how hard up i was at the time i would find the money. Well that time came early this week! I am very stoked with it! Even came with a rug in the back to protect the mint red interior It has the 2500 carby engine, 4 speed manual with overdrive and air shocks in the back. Which when i picked it up he told me they were good because you can have 3 people in the back and not have the wheels poking out at funny angles! ie negative camber. Plans are to lower it slightly and put in a decent stereo system, then cruise around in it. Let me know what you guys think.

Yea its got A174A on the firewall, no pump though, just heaps of hoses to gadgets and a aircon radiator.

Been working on my front suspension still. Got it all mocked up and bolted it into the car. This is the suspension at full droop. So doesnt have much travel All the parts laid out, just used shortened starion strut tubes, celica gt4 KYB inserts which bolt into standard lancer top hats, and Jamex 63mm id coilover springs rated at 7kg. Looking at adapting adjustable tophats soon though And then through word of mouth in dunedin i came across another lancer, so added it to my collection. Its a 1980 and got airconditioning? Is this possible? viewtopic.php?f=18&t=25849

no sorry, i only had 1200 lancers

Hey, do you guys think this is sitting right? Too low for certification? cheers

Been on holiday from polytech so done heaps with the front end. Since im putting in the starion struts i had to lower the front about 80mm. If i left the standard shocks in i would have had 40mmish of travel in the shock....not a good thing. So took this idea. I just cut off the lower spring hat and ground it back. Then cut and shortened the starion struts 57mm for the KYB celica inserts. Tacked the struts back together to make sure that i had them right before fully welding tem and put them back in the car. Sits like this Getting some sleeves machined to slide over the strut tube to weld spring seats on.

yea the mounts on the wagon diff are quite differant to the EX. Ill take a pic tomorow and post it up. Im tossing up myself whether or not it is worth making a sigma diff fit or just save up for a hilux one.

Home from polytec for the holidays so thought id put the lowering springs in the back, i reckon its at a pretty good hieght, not "sacked" or "dumped" on the ground. But it is definately alot lower than it was, will go lower if there a couple of people in the back. As you can see the front is pretty high, would make some suv's look low. Im thinking that i will make coilover out of the front starion struts using shorter shockies and civic lowering springs or similar. The engine is also in with the gearbox which is hitting the rear of the tunnel. I would really prefer not to cut this so if anyone has a l200 shifter extension plate etc give me a yell, cheers

yea ive got it all done. i used a starion crossmember(pretty sure sigma the same). the staion lower control arms starion knuckles, cant use lancer ones as they are 2 bolt and starion are 3bolt starion struts Lancer main drag link and right/left steering arms and a sigma idler arm and it all works sweet

today was particulary good work. got everything i wanted out of the sigma and started working on getting my lancer to sit on the ground by fixing all the little things, like the steering. After i put the starion crossmember and lower control arms into the little lancer the steering arms would catch on the back of the crossmember. I couldn't fix this problem no matter what steering arms i used, so in the end i gave up and it sat the while i started sanding etc. I made a thread on what i could do to fix in and came up that i needed a 1600 crossmember (hardish to find by itself). Today however i got the idler arm off the sigma, bolted that up, and IT WORKED!!! i now have steering in the lancer . So to clear up on how to put starion struts into a 1200 Mitsi lancer. Use. 1.Starion or Sigma Crossmember. They are the same 2.Starion Lower Control Arms and knuckles. 2 bolt as lancer are 3 bolt 3.Starion struts with lancer top hats. These bolt straight on and up into your lancer 4.Lancer main drag link and right/left steering arms 5.Sigma idler arm!!!! Note. This is how i done it, so it should work on 1200 lancers, i dont know about the other ones. I have only bolted it up aswell and it worked, i haven't got it certified, so dont come after me if it doesnt pass. I hav'nt cut or welded anything it is all bolt on. Hope this helps people out, cause it was frustrating the hell out of me!!

After a few months of searching a hanging out for a bargain a sigma wagon came up for tender. Which means i got one of these As im up in dunedin polytec for most of the time i got stuck into it as soon as i got home. Being a wagon means that it has a 10bolt diff hiding under there waiting for my lancer Also came on cheviot oldschool mags haha its moving only quite nicely now, hopefully il have the sigma stripped out tomorow and have the engine sitting in the lancer before the end of the weekend

haha yea the other one was molested abit, although this one has been hit hard by the rust bug. im trying to keep it sort of classic orientated with carbs etc, there deffinately wont be 17" chromies on this lancer

these turned up in the mail at work the other dar, cheers to Southernchick i also changed my mind on the turbo 4g63 sohc. Cant be bothered mucking round with turbos and wireing. would rather put the effort into something else, like these onto a n/a 4g63 also made one of these http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=25849

thought i better make one of these, let me know what you think or suggestions on the car

i have a owners manual out of my lancer and all the ex's apart from the 1800grs's have a rear ratio of 3.909. the 1600 gearboxes 5th gear has a 0.853 ratio, but the book has nothing on sigma gearboxs. hope this helps

I dont think there would be any thing if it is out of a carberated sigma, should be bolt in(apart from engine and gearbox crossmember/mounts). But if it is fuel injection then there will be wiring to do.

i tried to use the starion crossmember so that i didnt have to make custom mounts on the crossmember. So i can either use a 1600 crossmember or make custom mounts on the 1200 one. thnks

ok sweet as thanks. now i need to find one of these