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plasticdash

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Everything posted by plasticdash

  1. Did it sit square before the 2" blocks were put in ? (thats if its a new mod). did it not drop 2" on one side or did it drop 4" on the other . as above check the shock on the high side to see if its siezed/bound (and also check to see if the shocks are the same too . ive seen 2 different brand shocks in the back of a car that was lowered, and one bottomed out way before the other) - dont forget to give it a settling "bounce" or too. and check the rear leaf bushes move. and that the diff/driveshaft isnt hitting on any part of the floorpan - and that there are no broken springs.
  2. mixed sized turbos could work. but having driven twin turbo legacy's im not convinced (ud think the factory could get it right). and i thought a rpm based supercharger assisted low end would be better than exhaust gas spooling a smaller turbo. (maybe its just me - i dislike lag) .
  3. I am wondering if driveability gains from twincharging are worthwhile . ie a 2L motor that will pull strong until 7500-8000 rpm whilst at the same time eliminating lag around the 2-4k rpm mark - ie something that is more linear in power delivery. The most efficient way i have seen is using something like a toyota SC14 supercharger until around 4-5k rpm (then clutched off) and "larger sized" turbo only from there on. I have seen a couple of ways for plumbing. I believe the way below loses efficency by having supercharger after intercooler (less heat loss, as air is heated by compression from supercharger) This way is better i believe - Plumbing looks rather simple to do too. obviously have to run a bypass valve to open up air (from filter) into turbo when supercharger is shut off.
  4. go to this link http://www.uniden.com.au/NEW_ZEALAND/cs ... anuals.asp then scroll to the bottom. and click on the vs1600xr pdf.
  5. Mate had the same problem as you. tried everything, brand new master, bias valve and vacuum, blew out lines, bled many times using foot and also vacuum bleeder. turned out that one of the brake pistons was sticking. wouldnt move when bleeding, but would when under pressure. caused similar issue to what you have. also take out your bleed nipples and make sure the holes in them are not clogged (ive had this one myself)
  6. Was it doing a similar think prior to re-kit ?
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