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I'm really wanting to help but....I've owned 4 L20et powered vehicles and have never ever seen the coil that you have posted up. DId you ever sign up to HybridZ and ask on there?

Ok, I have no issue buying new shoes. They're $60 at super cheap or $81 at Repco. I will return that left hand wheel cylinder. Get some new shoes, get the drum skimmed then get it back together. I'm going to take it to garage that I trust (Richmond Auto Center for the reference) that does wofs, to get the wof and if it fails after i've done those things Ill get them to check it out and make necessary adjustments.

Can you get a photo?

I replaced the right rear wheel cylinder as it has split boots and a new one was only $23. Put it all back together, bled it all up. Failed wof recheck yesterday, the left rear was braking twice as much as the right; the stupid wof guy claimed he could feel the right side dragging still (IMO he is full of shit). What have I done wrong? It's difficult not having a brake test machine when working on drum brakes. I have a new left hand wheel cylinder to put in aswell now. When I reinstall the adjuster, should I wind it all the way in? I wish I could find a step by step tutorial on the net for adjustment one all parts are installed....

I just used a standard cylinder style coil, it was about 5 years ago but i'm sure I got one of these http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online- ... ?pid=99015 or the cheaper black version (http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online- ... escription)

Get a new coil Seriously, my l20et had the same issues. Replaced coil and all was sweet.

Never done a Cortina or column shift for that matter. Generally require Manual transmission Clutch Flywheel Master Cylinder (not required if cable operated, which my old mk4 was) Slave Cylinder (not required if cable operated, which my old mk4 was) Hydraulic lines from slave to cylinder (not required if cable operated; as above) Manual transmission sub frame Clutch and brake pedals Possibly a manual transmission driveshaft Possible a different centre console to suit manual A hole to be added for gear shifter seeing as it is column shift, may generically already have one plated up but I'm unsure.

Oh jeeze. The dreaded R30 Skyline parts hunt - good luck. The reason I got rid of my last R30 was the disaster I had of locating parts. And now I feel a bit rank as I recently binned a bunch of L20et ECUs, Dizzys and sensors as to no one requiring them. Anyway, its been a while but does the igntion module look the same as Someone on here will be able to provide more help than I can at the moment, a forum that I used to use for help and info on L series motors was http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/for ... -l6-forum/

Am thinking there could be an igntion module problem (that little box with 2 mins on side of dizzy). Enlighten?

Wires to fuel pump have power. I will get it out tomorrow. Its been a cunt so far.

I have not been able to locate a specific relay for the fuel pump. After looking behind the ECU I see a relay that doesn't match any that I have already seen. Could this be the fuel pump relay?

Checked all fuses. Can you enlighten me on how to test relays? There are two plugs going to the pump, each with 2 wires.

Got no fuel pumping out. Got no spark.

Yeh I tried the other night to get the hose off but i was a bit typsy and it was dark. I will follow your advice bro. Cheers.

Ok, I will go over the fuses the again. Remove the fuel pump and connect to a 12V source and see if she goes or not.

Nothing had been messed with, apaprently was low on gas. I know where the cam sensor on a de is but not on a e. I'll check for spark in half hour and update.

Hey, Need to bleed L300 brakes. The Manual mentions to bleed the right rear brake, the front brakes then the 2 nipples on the G Sensing Proportioning Valve (G.S.P.V.), it mentions there is 2 bleed nipples on the GSPV valve and to blee highest to lowest on the valve. While in fact there is only 1 nipple on my GSPV valve. So should I still continue with the way it instructs to bleed. Rear Right-Front Left, Front Right-GSPV valve? I know it's a weird question, I know on a car to start with brake furthest away then to closest to master cylinder but i've never dealt with one of these GSPV valves before.

Hi All, My old mans Laurel (C34 with RB20E) isn't starting. I havn't checked for spark yet as didn't have my tools with me yesterday, Check all fuses and appear ok. I can't quite recall if its possible to hear the fuel pumps in these laurels prime for a few seconds before startup, but I can't hear a thing so I was thinking it may be the pump or relay (if there is a fuel pump relay). I will check for spark after work, but if its got spark where should I look after that?

I will indeed do what johnnyfive suggested, I need to be assured i'm not fucking it up

I knew I shouldve taken a photo, I can't figure out how the handbrake string fits on to the arm. I've searched google and can't find hardly any decent pics as to what i need to see. How the Fuck does this spring connect? Has anybody got a pic? I really don't want to have to pull the drum off the other side to check. http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/41/sam0059n.jpg/ http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/215/sam0060d.jpg/ http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/34/sam0061w.jpg/ I've tried multiple combinations, even the gf tried. The shit gregorys manual doesn't show jack shit!

I got the drum off on Sunday, it was a cunt, I thought I had realeased pressure but still had a prick of a time; shoes didnt retract and didn't want to let go of the drum. I had to use a puller. Broke 2 pins and clips (which I have new ones to replace).

It turns out I may be a muppet when working with leading/trailing drum brake setups on mitsi l300 vans. I am confused about a couple of things. The adjuster needs to be backed off before drum removal correct? But these brakes are auto adjusting so when do they have a adjusted that can be tampered with from the slot in the backing plate? Does the handbrake not adjust these automatically? I always thought there was just the single hand brake adjustment directly at the handbrake, but now I'm guessing there is also one where the cable goes to the splitter, should I have been letting that adjuster off and not the one at the hand brake? Oh I also purchased a new wheel cylinder ($23 from ripco) as the rubber boots were shagged.

Why would you take a sohc rb for a tune? lol Fit a resistor pack. Google is there is info all over the place more than likely.

Ok thanks for the heads up, I will dismantle tomorrow and clean with brakecleen then adjust.