HighLUX

17 minutes ago, cletus said:

While we are on the subject 

05 honda accord with k24

Been sitting for 4 years 

Starts, does the fast idle thing but when it warms up it revs up and down approx 1000 to 1800 rpm 

Stuck idle control valve? Tried filling it with carb clean to unstick it but no dice

Put scan tool on it but doesn't show a fault 

Think the vac hose from the booster to the manifold was the issue, it was all hard and split on the end of the hose where it slides onto the booster. Cut it a bit shorter and slid it back on then tried the idle re learn again followed by a bit of a drive. Seems to be happy and doing what its supposed to like bumping the idle up when AC turns on etc.

Idle seems alot more stable and doesnt fluctuate even slightly like it used to. Would make sense with how the problem has slowly got worse as the hose fell to bits with the fact I dont think the idle was reset by the battery shop or the auto sparkys when the alternator was done so dodgy idle from that and the vacuum leak making it worse/even worse when it was trying to reset the idle

Basically I was today old when I learnt that Toyotas with drive by wire freak out when you take the power off the battery.

Nah its all electric gubbins hiding behind a panel

No air leaks as its weirdly intermittent, im thinking the throttle body is doing something funky/loosing its mind

2AZ-FE with electronic throttle body. Been having issues with the idle jumping all over the show while in drive and foot on the brake(sitting in traffic usually)

Idle bounces around and it stalls out and the motor dies sometimes. Alternator and battery have been replaced so tried the throttle body idle relearn procedure with no change and it still stalls out while trying the relearn procedure. Throttle body is clean no oil sludge on the throttle plate. Airflow meter has been cleaned and fresh air filter.

No engine light coming so it wont throw any codes if I get it plugged into a scan tool?

Got me stumped

Grease the base gasket for ease of removal next time and copper spray on the HG to help sealing

Jb weld will be fine. Key the plastic and goop it on

So the best of no worlds then?

Uh its been ages but I think they are 90s townace bumpstops that had the angle grinder treatment and stock shocks with a bit of travel left

Anyone able to pickup a fuel tank from out there somewhere and provide cash to the buyer which I will transfer you while I sort out a way to get it up country to Tauranga?

Mounts should be fine they are beefy as 

Thats the minimum draglink clearance with the wheels straight it increases once you start turning

More bush mechanic googling says that you can get results from stuffing an inner tube in the tank then inflating it to pop the depression out. Could be a go since its in the corner by the fuel pump hole so I can stuff it in there then use a length of timber to confine it to the dent

19 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

I'd try compressed air tbh. Put 120psi on it, and warm the dent with an oxy acetylene torch. Set up camera to film the dent popping out.*

*pleez dont.

But compressed air is what I'd try

 

Might try this

Whats the worst that could happen

Removing dent from a fuel tank? Car sat on the ground sans wheels so a portion of the tank got pushed in so more of a depression than a dent

Have got popped half of it out hammering a  wooden pole thru the fuel pump hole but cant get to the corner to finish the rest of it off

Tack weld a nut on the base and slide hammer it out?

Make up some blanking plates and use a waterblaster to hydroform it or compressed air?

Dug thru my stock of engine mounts and rubbers today and found a combo that will work. Bit of plate for the mounts to sit on and some box section off the chassis rail will work

Got a few things stripped out of the engine bay and mocked up how the intake will go. Making an air box will be required but thats easy enough and iv got an idea for something a bit different

EFI fuel tank out of an 08 hilux is a bolt in swap but this one sat in a chassis exposed to the elements for a while so didnt have much luck with removing the old rusty fittings for the fuel filler etc without the bolts snapping so map gas and patience is working at the moment

Always had a soft spot for these catfish

This guy is the dingo version of Alan Millard and he sure knows how to fuck

Anything is lams with a L plate slapped on the back fender

You aint a thug til you mudbug

Link to an aftermarket alloy one so I can tape meauser the hole?

Yeah but how tall are they?

1 minute ago, mjrstar said:

Can you fit it inside of the radiator support rather than behind it?

Il get a couple of pics next time im at the ute showing what I have to work with. Its a bit of a tricky one as cutting out radiator support cuts most of the front panel of the body. Im limited by height because of the chassis in the way under the body the bonnet at the top and headlight supports at the sides. Going to a non electro clutch on the SC would get me alot more space but how am I supposed to have a GO BABY GO button the top of the gearstick if I loose that