Bling

Just get in touch with Steve Morris, the SMX is only 6 figures.

https://www.stevemorrisengines.com/engines/smx-4500-hp

Hope they will be removing the doors for that true golf cart experience.

What size rotors are you planning to use? I managed to fit 276mm rotors with Dynalite calipers inside a 14x7" Hoshino Racing G5 or whatever they are. I can't measure it sadly as I sold them as tyres for 7.5" (rear) were too much of a ballache to get for cert. They now sit behind 15x7 XR4's and it's still a pretty tight fit. Caliper is probably closer to the rear of the wheel face rather than barrel, though I haven't tried to measure. 

Yeah I can imagine a faster EV is on another level. I'm happy with my basic one as it should keep me out of trouble. Except when you see people tailing you close, dart to the lane beside at a set of lights / roundabout. I haven't had anyone do it twice yet. How embarrassing.

Yeah everything clips the ticket, AC to DC etc. Not a big cost really. I need to time my trip to my local warehouse better as they offer free fast charging.

I'm not talking about every car available, just my situation. But anyone can pick up an older Leaf for relatively cheap. I tend to own cars long term though. 10 year old EV cost me sub $7k, so by the time I sold my 17 year old blade with nearly 200k on the clock, I paid sub $3k to swap. Had the Blade for 10 years, so if I keep the Leaf for even half of that, it will pay for itself. I've yet to work out exact cost to charge EV (not that keen to trial my inline aliexpress meter), but if I include RUC, it's around half the cost of ICE at 8L/100km. Which isn't easy to go lower when you are carting a car full most trips. 

11 hours ago, Sc@ Chi said:

Can't be arsed fact checking the whole thing, but I've seen similar figures elsewhere, and I value having someone share that stuff.

I found the FB post while eating my toast this morning. It is being ripped to shreds by everyone. So yeah sharing information is fine. But misinformation doesn't help anyone. For example, typical new EV has an 8 year warranty on the battery. 

You are right about climate change, even if every car in the world went EV I doubt it would make a difference. It's more about more choices really. I drive electric because cheap and nicer to drive than ICE.

42 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

Devils advocate here - a lot of electronics manufacturers specify the battery is end of life at 70% capacity in their manuals so 2/3 is technically dead

 

Either way, 3 years of benefit is better than 0 years of benefit

 

8 grand is also bloody cheap for a battery that big

Technically dead gets me 80+ km around town.

As for the replacing of batteries, can usually just replace the failed part and carry on. Would be like replacing whole engine in car if any part of it failed, doesn't happen. You replace the broken part and carry on.

In my case I can fit any Leaf battery into my car due to same floorpan. Tend to just get a cell or two fail though. So they get swapped out. Would be sweet to chuck a 40/62kWh pack in though. 

I don't recommend test driving anything electric though. It makes everything else feel clunky. Something to be said for no noise and linear acceleration no matter the speed. Can pick some small gaps in traffic.

@igor have you considered just not posting your garbage in this thread? We get it, you don't like EV's, move on. All you are doing is posting misinformation like an idiot, just don't.

8-10 year battery life? Oh yeah my 10 year old (relatively average compared to it's peers) battery still has 2/3 of it's capacity left. The fact you even posted it means you have no idea what you are talking about. Not even close.

/rant

Has been a few boners in here for that one. Can't even afford an Ioniq 5 anytime soon, let alone the N.

Find someone that welds good locally and pay them to teach you. It's not too hard to teach yourself, just need a bunch of scraps and some time to research what settings do what. Then just play with the machine till you get the results you are happy with. If you were to practice for 2 hours each weekend, you'd be pretty sorted after a month. You need to know what to look for with welds too. 

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/tutorial.htm

Read that, and check out the forum too, lots of things to look at.

You'll gain the most from just zapping stuff together though. 

Where is that from? Does he have a build somewhere? I've only seen it on his youtube channel. Being FWD makes it a lot easier to do!

More car details?

Pretty sure you can unstack it, I haven't looked too far but it likely shares cooling and would need wiring done of course. But yeah easy option is just swap engine out for motor and leave it as is. If the drivetrain was up to the task it would be relatively easy to do. Then just pack batteries where they can fit to suit F/R weight. Chuck a bigger battery in it that can handle the more powerful inverter and you get more go too.

Haha it's all relative, especially when talking Leaf(s) / Leaves, they won't go forever without a battery swap, unlike good old reliable ICE cars.

Ken on video, sounded like it was going to be a good laugh when I sharned with Karl at the BBQ. He shared your disgust at the Leaf.

I think they are super wide compared to most things. For comparison:

https://magpi.raspberrypi.com/articles/teslonda-tesla-honda-powered-raspberry-pi

I would be thinking more along the lines of Leaf motor adapted to gearbag or similar, due to budget. But the rear end won't handle that so... But yeah I also think MX5 could be a better platform to mess with for that sort of thing. Has been done in the UK and looks pretty good.

25 minutes ago, Ned said:

So keen for an EV conversion! So keen!

What would you do?

Any ideas i've come up with, on a budget (that I don't have), blow the rear end of an old Toyota to bits with torque.

Older ones aren't well suited for transalpine trips lol. Battery will have lost a bit of life with that trip lol. You guys did well though, when does the video go live?

Even with RUC our petrol car at 8L/100km isn't far off twice the running cost of the Leaf. I'd budget for more tyres for Leaf and less servicing costs. So probably similar other costs all considered.

Print the whole thing? At least that way you can mess with the distances the lever pulls vs what it needs to pull. For someone with your gear it seems like a relatively easy job.

On 13/01/2024 at 18:43, locost_bryan said:

The stories mention Hertz also have Polestars, but doesn't say if they're selling off those too.

Depends how easy they are to get parts for. Hertz self insure and Tesla parts seem to be hard to come by with no one knowing ETA for said parts. In the Hertz' situation at least. So parts being expensive isn't the main problem. Having cars sit unused for months waiting for parts is a MUCH bigger problem. Rental companies don't tend to hang on to cars that long anyway. I guess the big point is that they won't get burnt again by Tesla, so cars that were to be sold anyway, won't be replaced like for like.

2 hours ago, locost_bryan said:

They're going to need to add some more classes for lighter vehicles if they want to get public support, no-one with a small car wants to be paying the same rate as a deliver truck or Ranger.

They haven't yet for diesels have they, sub 3.5T at least? So i'd be surprised if they bother. They absolutely should though, maybe just wind up the RUC cost for the likes of Rangers lol. It's a RUC system that penalises the economical cars the most, when it comes to diesels. It's not like an economical car is going to be heavy as fuck, to warrant the high RUC fees. I feel like we have discussed at some point the weight vs tyre contact patch when it comes to who does the most damage to the roads. I just can't recall what answer we came up with.

I think it's mainly because Tesla is dropping prices to compete / keep getting sales. Which means lower resale = bad news for Hertz. There has been talk about the sell off for quite a while. So there must be some reason it's popped up again across all media, when really it's pretty shit story. *puts on tinfoil hat*

I did wonder about rotating it, measurements seem to check out based on the 1mm missing from the round section. Assuming that puts the hose all up the wazoo direction wise?

Do you know a rough start time? Not needing exact times, just easier for me personally to ditch other commitments now rather than on the day and get frowny face.

Will dig out some tools to bring. But if there is something you know you need that you don't have maybe chuck it up so people can bring. 

Nah that's cool. Was just wondering as on my calipers you screw a fitting in first then the swivel nut of the braided line connects to that. Just figured if yours was similar you could swap a different fitting in. I tended to find 2-3 options for each problem I came across when building my car. So always thinking outside of the box.

I can't answer your question.

But can you get an adaptor that fits in that area, then fasten your hose on to that? Just spit-balling.