Bling

Stabiliser might be something else. Regulator tends to be in engine bay, wired to alternator and then many things get powered off that. So hunt around in the engine bay / haynes manual for it.

I flushed my lines to death when I had my rear brakes rebuilt. There was a lot of gunk hiding in there so for the effort involved, it was well worth it.

Voltage regulator of some sort could be the issue. I'm guessing it will be external on your car because old. So maybe track that down and see if anything looks suspect. If you happen to have a spare, bang it in and see if it fixes it. 

Reminded me of this that I read ages ago

https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/67160-beavers-d21-kingcab/page/3/#comment-2593129

No idea what the issue is, but i'd at least start with a flush and see how much crud comes out. I've had multiple rear brake balance problems in the past and the specs of dirt in the proportioning valves that caused it were pretty small. Doesn't sound like you have that valve, but i'm just mentioning it as it build up caused lots of headaches. So any build up could be contributing. Someone else will have had this issue before and comment i'm sure. But with old shit, and lack of fluid changes, build up occurs and can cause issues. Just something to start with anyway. I think the cars I had issues with were split diagonally for braking. Current old cars have a tee on the diff to split the single line from front. If no crud in the line to the rear and no build up in the rear tee (could be worth whipping off and cleaning out). Then yeah I guess something is up with master as that is the only other part in the system.

How many lines running to the rear? I would whip all of the fittings off and give them a good clean out. I'm guessing you have given the whole system a good flush?

Everything on the road below 3500kg should just pay the same amount. After April 1, petrol will just be paying less (on average) to use the roads. If they go through with the petrol cars going on to RUC then it will all be same same. Fart tax is paid on petrol / diesel isn't it? So that is where the Cruiser pays it's share compared to the Fiat. RUC is for road wear, not emissions. From what i've seen anything below 3500kg has minimal wear on the roads, so it's basically just a blanket user tax to pay for the roads. 

Vacuum pump with check valve?

I forget what cars have them for not too much coin. But I think that is a solution. Could depend on how much of the gear you install too, could get regenerative braking mixed in, which appears to be a lot of my braking. That might take up most of the slack though?

I assume vehicles are rated based on vehicle + extra per seat, add fuel and call it max weight. Like how adding a roof rack to your ranger and towing a heavy boat leaves you next to no capacity for people, legally.

Well it's going to depend on the car. A small car is not really going to be viable full stop (IMO). A large car won't take as much work in comparison. Every vehicle has a max weight which you won't be able to increase. Brakes and suspension are the easy bits of the puzzle. I don't know what a big engine, gearbag diff etc weighs.

400kg is the big boy leaf battery that is big money and was purely mentioned for example. If you're using that pack then clearly you have $$$$ to burn.

The leaf 62kWh pack is ~400kg, so yeah it does add up. That does illustrate how battery tech has come along vs weight. 33% more weight with 100%+ more capacity. 

I just hope he doesn't too far before realizing GPS speedo won't work.

1 hour ago, cubastreet said:

A 24kWh leaf battery is about 300kg so any nice nimble sports car is instantly ruined.

Yes and no. You can within reason put the modules anywhere so can get the car sitting at 50% FR balance. Decent suspension and you are well on your way. MX5 conversion looks pretty good. Already setup to drive the right wheels and you can keep the car well balanced. Keeping them low in the car will help too I'm sure. 

Ah right, what sort of custom bits would you need for that? Could repack the battery setup into something that fits and motor etc all just jammed up front. That could be pretty sweet. Have seen whales like landcruisers done with the basic 80kW Leaf setup and it seemed legit. I'm sure people have done tractors. Im going to have to look now...

Buy a wrecked leaf for cheap and you have most of what you need for the allegro build. Last cheap leaf I added to my watchlist sold for 2k a few days ago. That's not much to pay to get motor and everything needed, minus custom driveshafts, mounts etc. That was full car, fresh import. 5k probably gets you a 60%+ SoH Leaf, sell what parts you don't need from there. Big potential IMO. Getting the range you want for cheap is probably the biggest hurdle. 40kWh pack into a classic with 80/100kW sounds good to me though. Range would be decent.

Hey bud, every time you look in my direction, i'm going to wait for another 1% of charge. Ball is in your court. 

I can imagine it can be an annoyance though, plenty of complaints about charger usage. The only free charger i've tried was broken. So I went to a pay one to check my DC charging wasn't broken. That is my total experience really. Only managed 21kW of charge rate due to my battery health. What sort of charge rate do you get? Must be decent in comparison.

Yeah you wouldn't want to be asleep at the line.

1 hour ago, cletus said:

It did not look particularly quick, 

 

But everything else seemed to be running in the 11s so not a good comparison 

Would look rather silly then lol. 

That wouldn't be hard lol. 

How did it go off the mark compared to the other cars? I feel like the Leaf is best suited 0-60kmh. Dyno charts concur, falls off a cliff a bit. 

8 hours ago, xsspeed said:

lol, srsly i was driving around in some bland and imo overpriced suvs and crossovers for the mrs today and I swear ill fall asleep driving if I dont have something to do like press a clutch and change gear in lieu of 300hp on tap

The instant torque off the line keeps me awake (as much as an appliance can). Manual is fine, drove one yesterday, but for town jobs no gearbag at all is fine. Assuming the new shape Leaf isn't in budget, give a 2014+ model a test drive, should be plenty around to try out.

Shhh, just come to the dark side.

Someone has probably put up a website with all of the different driveshaft lengths and their compatibilities. I'd hit up google for a while and see what you uncover. You're lucky they are a popular model with lots of info available online, many models aren't so lucky.

1 hour ago, zach_munce said:

might be these?

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/holden/suspension/listing/4570001651

Looks to be the case, not a bad markup.

13 hours ago, square said:

That's good, then old buddy's 600k Prius with 4 bald tyres on the motorway in the rain would have less chance of hitting me when he spins out 

600k on the clock probably means they will be experienced enough to not spin out on said bald tyres. Dumb theories work both ways.

Price alone doesn't make you question the quality they could possibly be? I'm just struggling that's all.

And two weeks for others.

Petition goes too far in the other direction for me, but SOME changes would be nice to see. 12 months WOF and the likes for all. Less / lesser inspections at border doesn't sound great. But that's not something i've had dealings with personally to know the ins and outs of.