Bling

Make it worth the trip by grabbing the pram and bicycle at the same time

/and the rest

Talk to Anton first, he can whip anything up.

Might even get away with adding a new groove between those two and have it line up ok with a fiddle of the rest.

They should come with rollers for other sizes from new, that's all. Nothing you would have stashed away and forgot about?

edit: A quick google suggests yours doesn't though.

Probably something you could get machined up. @ajg193 could be up for that task.

Second hand was it? 

https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/consultation/2021/fuel-systems/2021_July_Chapter_10_Fuel_Systems_CCM_Final_Draft_Ind_Consult.pdf

Page 14, but the rest will be handy / along with the rest of the handbook. Incase this has been superseded, you can get the whole document for free on their website.

I don't recall what welder you have / what it says on the door. Mine has zero settings on the welder itself that's why I was confused. Tend to move the settings up and down together as they work together to get the job done. Again depends on unit you have. But if i'm upping voltage on my machine I increase the wire speed too. If the voltage is too low for the wire speed you'll find the wire won't melt quick enough. Same with if you have the voltage too high, the wire will burn back to the torch as it's not feeding enough. At least that's my experience.

You what now?

Sounds similar to the one I did, piston could just be jammed with crud like mine was. It was sub 1mm ring of junk that once cleaned out was sweet. I'd give it another hoon at getting the piston out. Mine just had a really small ring of debris that was easy to remove. I put it down to infrequent fluid changes that over time just left a bit of shit behind.

I can't comment on the issue with replacement unit. But can you pop the replaced one apart? I did that on a Toyota unit and it was easy to clean out, balance was perfect after and never had the problem again.

Depends how much bigger you are talking. Pretty sure my exhaust was smaller diameter pipe and slipped inside my muffler so was an easy job. I grabbed it locally though so I knew it would all work. Been a while, they may have even flared me a bit of pipe to make it a closer fit.

It's a shame they check lending and affordability criteria these days, I'd sign up tomorrow for a relatively cheap Leaf.

I roll a LED lantern if it's going to be hard to see. Just positioned off to side as suits.

It depends what you want to be welding too. If just panel steel, then just learn on that. I'd have to relearn thicker material welding as 99% of mine is sub 1mm thickness. With practice the settings don't tend to matter too much, for spot welding at least. As long as you're in the ballpark, it will work. Might just be shorter or longer on the trigger to do the spot. Not long enough and it will just sit on the top. Too long and you have a bigger hole to weld up...

Agreed on the hot spots vs beads for panel work. Sure it's doable to do beads, but the panel is going to banana pretty bad. Hot spot and leave time between hitting the same spot again. I don't think I did anything other than spot welding on all of my car repairs. It's all tuna can spec thickness so doing spots is sweet.

I like how the Uber Leaf has done 300,000km and the owner has had it 3.5 years

Still has money owing on it. I mean I knew Uber money wasn't amazing... but...

21 minutes ago, shizzl said:

Bit of a shame theyr not 15A, I could hook up my welders at home  

If you had the oven plugged in rather than hard wired you could just unplug it to make use of the capacity?

If anything Co2 will give more penetration, profile should be down to wire speed, or speed of torch I guess. Flow rate i'm not sure, maybe 10-15l/minute? Been a while. That's pure CO2.

Maybe try pulling back the wire speed to get it a bit lower profile. Good penetration though on a lot. Just maybe more wire into the job than needed. Pros feel free to chime in lol.

1 hour ago, Jusepy82 said:

Good night for practice.

Very slowly learning. 

Underside? A lot look quite proud of the base material so seems like they are on top rather than penetrating. I'd want to be closer to 50% of the bead on the top and 50% showing on underside.

This is one I had to do, 5mm holes punched in the section I welded into the car, welded from below. Top half is topside, so showing penetration. Bottom half was where I was in my boot on my back in pain. This was good enough to get the tick for filling in a speaker hole. But shows the welds are quite flat on underside and showing some penetration and heat rings around the welds.

A vote here for no flares if you can make it work. I just really like how that current front wheel arch design is shaping up. It will still look sweet if you fit more dish in by going flares, but vote stands. Especially if going spacers and no more cell phones fitting in the lip. 2c etc, great project.

Maybe try https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/ They tend to focus on certain platforms, but may know who to use if they can't sort it.

It's not about chance of fire I don't think. But what happens in a fire. Petrol fire you can put out, EV fire you can't. Suprised that hybrids have twice as many fires as pure dino juice cars though! If that ship that caught fire didn't have EV's onboard, it would probably be fine. They can shut off the ventilation and stifle it's progress. EV's feed themselves. Not against EV at all, i'd love one. But the thought of a self sustaining fire (in my garage next to bedrooms) is a tad concerning. Source of original fire aside.

Another concering issue is why did Hyundai make the Ionic 6 so much worse looking than the Ionic 5? They nailed the 5 IMO, but the 6 reminds me of an MX6.

Nek minit, cops are always picking on us.

Keen on a FD. Just shy 99% of the buy in price.

Was an interesting follow up to his first video on it. When there were only 25 EV's onboard. Something you don't think about really, that Sydney carpark was a scary thought.

Depends what you are doing I guess. Was it lap weld of two panels?

You'd see evidence of the weld a lot clearer on the underside if penetration was good. Last weld I did was plug weld two panels together and you could see the plugs from both sides of job.

Perhaps wind the wire speed back a bit and leave the other settings as is. If I could get to my welder I'd chuck up examples of cold welds and welds with good penetration. Can't even get to my bench though.

Not saying that job will fall apart at all. But in a case where you need more strength, it may be lacking. Also don't do it for a job so could be off mark. But that's my experience.