Jeffs_Emporium

Had a bit of a yarn to them about my radiator situation while I was there. This is the current setup which has the bottom outlet on the incorrect side for the 4ag. They claim the increase from 1500cc to 1600cc would put this radiator out of use anyhow. I'm looking for a cost effective solution that will fit in the same space, use the factory mounting points and as a bonus have electric fan with shroud attached. Width to outside of tanks is 625mm and height 370mm 32mm inlet and outlet sizes

Have been making good progress on the wiring. I feel like each time I do it I learn from my mistakes and take a bit more care and make it look more factory Just collected the re-cored heater core from Auckland radiators after spending about twice as much as I wanted but it was one of those not keen to take the dash out again moments Hoping to receive $430 worth of warm toes in winter.

A few hours rigging up some wiring this afternoon and I was able to get it fired up. Hyperpak was a breeze to wire up and just jigged up something temp for fuel pump. Hoping to spend the next couple days finalizing the wiring with the proper relays with an electric fan provision also.

Fresh lick of 045 glacial white Fingers crossed installing it brings some renewed enthusiasm to get this over the line

Had some professional photos taken on Friday as a bit of promo work for @jeffsemporium Really happy with how they've turned out

Have been a bit slack on working on this but have word the tailgate is almost done. As much of the bottom straightened as possible and then some filler to sort the rest. Purchased an old fiberglass fixed back to run in this as a bit of a tester to see how bad the shipping prices from Japan are for them. Who is Alex? I'm not sure but I have a vague memory of flicking through catalogue pages and seeing the name so went for a sift this afternoon. Listed in 1989 CARBOY sports tuning guide from Japan is the 'Mr Alex' fixed seat for ¥28000 Also found my old Bride reclineable which I didn't think was an original upholstery at the time

On a lighter note, the second tomcat has arrived and is booked in for surgery latest one was originally red (they only came in red or gold) I plan to have it painted in red and the other left in gold to see what suits the car best and paint one colour when I locate another pair some time. Sizing wize 10J A type is on the cards but there is a small voice reminding me I have shorter axles and should find another subframe to shift arm mounts inwards.

I have been plagued by a fuel issue for the past month since reassembly. The fuel pump was making a horrible noise that got progressively louder and the car would only fire up for 1 or 2 seconds then splutter out. I replaced the fuel pump, same problem. Painfully purchased a Tomei fpr and Guage and all sorts of fittings to allow me to fit the gauge in place of the cold start injector hose while retaining the factory fuel reg for now to fully identify what the issue is Putting the gauge on and priming pump the fuel pressure took about 30 seconds to hit 38psi and then cranking it drops down to zero. Next I took the high pressure hose off the pump and into a Jerry can, key ON and it hoons out like everything is fine. Reconnect that and try the return hose off factory regulator, about a teaspoon after 30 seconds. Reconnect that and try the high pressure hose going into damper on other end of fuel rail, hoons out everywhere. Have a look at the damper in my hand and it has a copper washer jammed in the wrong side blocking the feed from the banjo. So about $500 later and many afternoons wondering what the fuck is going on and calling my dad and other mates for ideas I've finally found the issue and can get on with enjoying the last 3 weeks of my current warrant of fitness

Have spent the morning stripping the hatch with tergostrip to see if there's anything else hiding before sending off to panelbeater. 3 spots of rust where the window rubber holds water in and just the shit load of dents on the bottom 3rd. All the rest looks alright. Will ask for wiper and squirter delete while it's being worked on.

The fuel pump has rubber mounts to body. Braided line is touching body on the loop off it but not clipped to anything. Best to rubber clip mount it to body?

Since changing to a braided rear high pressure fuel pump I'm getting horrendous vibrations through out the car, the fuel pump sounds like a 747 and changes pitch a lot . So much so that I bought a new fuel pump. Is this common if it's touching the body?

Lastly the slave fitted Located an old brake hose with correct fittings to get me from the hard line to slave. Had an issue with the threads in the bellhousing being drilled on slightly different angles which I have overcome by drilling one hole on the slave to 10mm instead of the 8mm it was. With the slave on drivers side under my ass I was able to one man bleed Only think I will need to look at is a way to fit the soft to hardline connection with a solid mount to body. Decided to hook up the starter and try do a compression test. Recieved 100, 150, 150, 100. This engine has been sitting for God knows how long but has evidence of receiving an entire pull down and clean up. Are there any preventative measures I should be taking before trying to start it for real? I'm just waiting for a 3ohm lucas coil that's specd for the hyperpak to show up before giving it a go

3 photos of the hydraulic clutch conversion because it's that big of a procedure with 8 or so line clips to run through. I ran a peice of string through all the clips then measured it, rolled it out of my tubing then took to ebc for them to flare. You'll see the different reservoir swapped in with the 3rd line fitting for clutch. I did have a nice round on tube coming off the master cylinder but it was running higher than reservoir outlet and making it hard to bleed. nicely clipped up in the allocated spare tube holder

Injectors are back in with new o-rings from MSEL and primed up without leaking. Sprayed the glovebox panel with vht wrinkle this afternoon. I need to find some space for all the wiring, each of the plug ins have like 1m excess loom attached.... @Barnz.NZ put me onto a single 14" ssr tomcat listed on Yahoo Auctions Japan which I managed to win this morning. Will be using it with the other I have to make a pair for the mark II with hopes of finding two more eventually

Cheers boys MSEL sorted me out yesterday so hopefully that's sorts it out.

My favourite part is the integrated bracket held by the air fuel ratio gauge I can't wait to light up this Christmas tree

Stan's custom creations finished up my wangan spec glovebox install. Just need to throw some wrinkle black across it or some leopard velvet.

Glad I grabbed spares of the injectors as two were seized completely. Recieved the lot back with 6 tested and new caps fitted. I cut the offset keyway off with a craft knife put them in the fuel rail and decided to prime the fuel system to make sure there were no leaks. After about 20 seconds it starts pissing out two injector seals. When I installed them they didn't feel as tight as usual in the rail. Took them back out and the rb20det injectors are 7.14mm where the o-ring sits and the 1gge are 7.84mm in the same place so my 1gge injector seals I have from new gasket kit aren't suitable. Decided to have a browse under the cam covers while I'm here to check for wear and it still looks as clean as when I assembled it almost 2 years later. Also using this time to improve some of the hoses and vacuum lines and fit the old vacuum tank for the heater (heater goes cold when on boost currently) Have been looking into changing to a 1ggt/ze spark plug R5671A-7 .7mm gap from the current BCPR5EIX-11 with 1.1mm gap I also finally found an article on installing the hks supercharger kit which is in the 1987 hks power catalogue I was always confused about how they offered an intercooler version since the charger is mounted directly on intake manifold. This manual shows that version has two pipes coming off the intake manifold which will go to intercooler, who knows how the air would actually circulate through intercooler??

If the section outlined in pen is raised to match the section the rail sits on it will work

I have tried that and my gearbox mount was thanking me but it pushes the end of carbs back to the sheet metal between engine bay and battery (reason why I had 10mm taken off the carb manifold) I think I will push on as if it does fit, complete wiring, get it started up and make sure everything else is fine and then with a bit of luck a floor shifter van will be at pickapart or something otherwise drop the lid off somewhere that can reproduce it with the space I need to certification spec.

I could but it's the seatbelt mount and seat mount landing on it that makes me afraid regarding certification

Floor shifter engine cover looks like it has more clearance but probably going to have seatbelt in same place so have the same issue? I almost bought another entire liteace that was floorshift just to try this but came to my senses...

Linkage clears all good its just the lid on front carb hitting second skin under seat belt mount. Not too sure where to go from here aside from using a dry sump