Jeffs_Emporium

Put old crossmember on g52, soldered the old reverse switch plug on and transfered the speedo cog. put it in the hole and attached to old mounting holes and I'm in the ballpark of +/-5mm for the engine mounts lining up measuring from bellhousing face! Slid the shorter driveshaft in and measured gearbox seal shield back to diff. I need 695mm, shorter shift I have is 568mm and longer 740mm. Looking at the other gearbox crossmember it shifts the box further back but if my engine mounts line up the lesser of two evils is definitely dropping driveshaft off to get shortened than making engine mounts and needing to drill and weld crush tubes into chassis. One shifter linkage bolts straight up and other I possibly need to trim and fit a socket/tierod fitting to end. Looks easy

Have been researching suitable fuel pump for the webers and came across this link https://www.racetep.com/manufacturer/carbs-and-injection/weber/electric-fuel-pumps.html I don't know how much of this is true but it fooled me enough to order the Carter Fuel Pump mentioned from rock auto ($110 nzd delivered)

Could be, looks like I can use 4speed crossmember on 5 speed anyhow and shorten one of the driveshafts to suit if I can't track down the correct one

Very crusty engine room

Lift van up and take passenger wheel off to slide crane in then it was pretty straight forward

Have the gearbox removed. Already something isn't as its supposed to be and I'm not sure why. for starters the gearbox crossmember I took from a liteace at pickapart lines up with support members on body but two holes are missing in body, (would need to drill and weld in some crush tubes) looking at the crossmember from box I pulled from mine it would work on g52 but why is my driveshaft so short...

New genuine clutch fork, release bearing carrier with clips and rubber boot arrived. $100 including post via amayama Heavy duty ae86 clutch is on order from Japrace in Christchurch also

Approved

Additional van arrived today so I can begin the engine and box swap. Wof recheck tomorrow then the 5k is coming out Saturday. I've got two weeks untill my garaged car comes home from Christchurch so at a minimum the engine and box need to be in so it's not blocking access.

Trying to assemble a twin side draft linkage kit, any tips on where to find individual components?

Made the trip from Auckland to Christchurch, had a good look around at horopito / smash palace again. Never get bored of seeing the same rare wrecks. Used two 50L tanks of 98 on my 1000km trip running the 3.7 diff 2950rpm @ 100km/h Took this photo in Clarence along the Kaikoura coastline. Prior to making the trip I removed the wideband and Graphic control computer so I could spend time sorting out the wiring while the car is down south (left it down to split the drive up). Had it on a friend's hoist down there and a few things need attention before I'm happy to drive it back. One of my front ball joints (2000kms old) has a lot of play so ordered a couple new AC Delco complete front lower control arms from Rock Auto. A coolant leak from around the heater line section at back of the engine and rocker cover gaskets leaking also. I managed to pick up another F series complete Head in 4.1 ratio as a placeholder to get my 3.7 setup better (currently has nearly ¼ driveshaft turn backlash...

Yeah so the GCC was hooked up to IGT pin only after doing factory ecu pin out to see what went to the f-con and then seeing what the gcc was plugged into from that. Trying to track down what the gcc needs to be hooked up to (assume the injector bank signals and igt and power/earth) but it's proving difficult to find with this 30 year old + tech. I did take the lid off gcc and it is labeled but don't know how to decode

Yeah twin 43mm entry/exit. It keeps it relatively quiet considering the rest is straight pipe

Rigged up the innovate wideband on Sunday. First drive was showing it relatively lean with 14/15 on boost and about 20 everywhere else. Idling has always been poor I guess due to the extra load on engine so first step was adjusting the idle air mixture screw on throttle body untill I was happy with that. F-con main switch was on mid setting of 5 so I jumped it straight to 7 and did a few pulls along motorway (pretty hard going to get a good feel with speed limits) still not quite reading the golden numbers so bumped up to 9 on the way back. Drive ability is way better with it not bogging down low any more but boost doesn't feel like it comes on as hard (could well be that the boost felt more previously due to how shit it was off boos?) Anyways, need to track down the gcc pin out as I feel it doesn't make any difference to the read outs no matter how much I change the dials. It is picking up the rpm signal and showing if I've selected increase, norm or decrease but doesn't seem to be adding/removing fuel. Possible that the Evo f-con harness has injectors in a different spot so will investigate.

Very happy with mister mufflers work

Booked in for exhaust system this Saturday. Following a few OS recommendations I'll be taking it to Mister Muffler in Pakuranga who will be welding in the O² sensor bung also. Going with this stainless steel dual 43mm muffler I purchased from Japan a couple months back and mild steel piping tucked up as high as possible Moving things along as quickly as possible as I plan to drive the car to Christchurch for Queens Birthday weekend. Get to do 1000kms of road tuning, yay!

Haven't updated for a while but have done about 250kms of driving. Has a real nice pull from 4k rpm till infinity but quite flat anything under and struggles to idle. Turned the single fuel adjuster down and it was better on idle and under 4k but then not so much pull. Turned it up and idle worse but even better pull so I set out to find a HKS GCC. Found one listed on upgarage minus the adapter. Located the adapter on a full Evo 1,11,111 pfc harness listed separately. Had Jesse Streeter purchase both and consolidate packages. This let's me add or remove fuel at certain rpm starting with 500 and going up increments of 1500 which I will keep an eye on using innovate wideband afr gauge. found and old toyota 4 pin plug in stock to make it removable for tuning the liteace later

We have start up Not without a couple of issues. First of all was fuel leak which was a banjo for cold start injector I hadn't tightened properly. I also left the supercharger/aircon idler pulley nut loose after tensioning belt and it came loose and met with the fan (lucky I have more in the garage which I nearly binned) Somehow alternator belt has massive slack after I definitely tightened it, have done it back up and locked everything off and seems ok. Need to install the braces from blower to block before first driver especially as one of these has a bracket to hold the dipstick (they really have included everything in this kit its scary) Have noticed the idle is way lower and pretty poor but just remembered last night that I had tps out to get intake blasted so it's likely I've put it back close but not close enough. Fix all these bits and rig up an intake pipe and off we go. I'd like to find someone in Auckland with the portable afr setup that I can confirm everything is safe with a few pulls (maybe dyno also for curiosity) Also not sure if I should be adjusting timing to allow for boost?

A week ago I sold some 19" 3p weds lips to a fella who runs a 3d modeling and printing business. I mentioned I was after some fender mirror gaskets for my gx61 as one had blown apart (common fault) I sent my good one up to him and he scanned it and flipped it and printed of this new pair for me in an ABS like resin. Pretty happy with the finish being smooth on all the seen surfaces and I'll just need to fine sand the dimples off the bottom

F-con plugged in and ready to go. Just needed to run the map sensor plug and boost gauge hose through the firewall grommet. There is a nice amount of length on the f-con harness to tuck it somewhere else as there is no space by the toyota ecu with the glove box sleeve in

46mm hks boost gauge fitted in place of the cigarette lighter

Pretty stoked with how that's come up I could see vapour blasting becoming quite addictive if rebuilding an old engine, the finish is like new. Spent yesterday making up new gaskets to go between both adapters and swapping over the iscv and cold start injector and vacuum ports

Here are the difference in throttle bodies For reference a 1jzgte throttle I have is also 59mm