Jeffs_Emporium

Here's the first part of bonnet which just hits on the timing belt cover. proximity to the seatbelt is what I was worried about

Wondering if someone has a smart idea (cert happy)to overcome my engine fouling on bonnet/seat in my liteace. I planned on dropping the engine but I don't want the sump to be lowest point of van and it's actually ideal where it is. an idea I had was spacing the entire lot up with a 15-20mm flat bar continuously around red line with holes drilled so everything uses original fastener holes with longer bolts. Is there an alternative material that could be used that's a bit easier for average Joe to bend

Jesse streeter

Driveshaft arrival and confirmation it's the correct length!

Listing for a new one is about $1600 not sure it's actually available. It will get sorted at the very end. Rust hole is just on the edge of the seal not all the way up to window flange

Put the 2" blocks in, rolled the rear guards and fitted the rear pair of brx Never before seen footage of the crusty tailgate. Looks a lot worse than it is due some usefull person touching the whole tailgate up with paint applied with a brush

Lowered the front yesterday Waiting on 2" blocks for the rear to level it out. Found the voltage regulator way up by the wipers yesterday so need to figure out how to make a bypass loom in place of it

I understand where you are coming from but I do not have the tools or expertise, you also mention 'for a customer' so my guess is they paid you atleast $80+gst per hour to do so? All in all it seems like a lot of work when I can pay similar money to have one delivered to my house when all shops are likely to be closed for month and a driveshaft isn't something I'm keen to throw together in my shed

Internet success this morning. My friend John has two km51 trucks both with g52 gearbox and e series diff. He measured his driveshaft on both trucks this morning and they are the correct length I need A quick check on megazip with both chassis codes verified both of his trucks use the same part number (37110-28160) Then plugging km51 into yahoo auctions japan I find a driveshaft listed with the following extensive info attached (nz wreckers could learn a lot) Checking megazip with KM51TGQDS tells me this is the part # 37110-28160 also! It comes in at $480 landed with 2-6 day shipping and from the low mileage of 63,575kms will have decent unis which is cheaper than I can get mine shortened and balanced and the plus of being an oem bolt in part. Also noting the chassis number is only 132 numbers apart from one of John's trucks! How cool

Ordered the clutch hardline and fittings from here https://nz.gsparkplug.com/25ft-x-cupro-copper-nickel-brake-pipe-3-16-10-x-male-female-nut-10mm-x-1mm.html $49 delivered for 25ft of ³/16 tube with 10 male and 10 female m10x1 fittings. Had a break from the tedious jobs and whipped off the cam covers for a refresh and to delete the writing from the top of them have just hit them with a filler primer to try make them a bit smoother and will decide on colour overnight/ see what I have available...

Whipped the dash out this morning for a couple of jobs-Swap out cable clutch pedal for the hydraulic one I have along with the 3 outlet reservoir -Remove the leaking heater core to source replacement/repair -Browse dash cluster wiring. None of the nz spec km36 came with a tachometer but the ym30/40g and cm30/40 did. The diesel rev range on the cm one is maximum of 6k rpm and have a turbo light which is no good to me. The ym has a max of 8k rpm (only 5500 redline) but it will do Looking at my existing cluster I have a 10 and 12p plug. This example on Yahoo Auction Japan has 3 plugs (10p,10p,12p) I'm guessing the extra plug is likely the extra warning lights along top for the more luxury optional extras. Here's hoping the board is simple enough to just trace what I have and make it work. In the past year of browsing they have all been ¥15000 but this one above is up for ¥7800 so I may as well give it a punt.

Have been giving this a good nudge since Wednesday. Mounted the fuel pump where coil was with a STA parts alloy bracket (overnight delivery thursday). Spent infinite time online looking for ¼npt to barb fittings for 6mm hardline to pump and pump to 8mm fuel union on webers. Ordered 3 different sets from aliexpress as I found better ones (elbow) with shorter lead times on shipping. cut back the factory loom and have enough length to relocate coil and hyperpak to where airbox was. Had a bit of a win on parts scavenging when I realized a cut up loom that came a recent 1gge purchase has lots of the plugs I need (alternator, distributor and fan switch) It's been good to find and order a bunch of stuff I need from internet (I seem to have a real battle finding specific shit) Awaiting carter oil pressure safety switch, ⅛bsp brass tee with ⅛npt allocation for carter switch. Also have electric fan relay kit on order and a couple 250 series male/female 6 pin plugs to hook up hyperpak as well as fuel pump relay which I'll run off the carter safety switch. Need to order a suitable coil and a singular 400mm electric fan to manipulate into the factory plastic shroud (I still need to overcome one outlet on radiator on incorrect end and the lack of filler as it was on 5k thermostat housing)

Put 12v to the L wire with key on and it's flicked off battery light so looks like I'm good

Picked up the IG pin in correct place but no voltage on the S, and the L wire is a heavy duty cable thicker than rest that goes to a small box before going to battery

Someone on here know if my 5k would have had externally regulated alternator or internal? Tried testing the 3 pin plug before putting 4age plug on and not getting the results listed for 4age alternator

Is there such a thing as npt - barb fitting with a reducer? My fuel pump has larger barb outlets than hardline on body and carb fittings. Chasing ¼npt - 5/16 and ¼npt - 15/64

Received a used hyperpak in the mail today to control spark with the original 4age dizzy meaning I don't need to run ecu or the massive harness that comes with it

Tracked down an ae86 cast manifold and downpipe locally also

Centre caps arrived

Please and thank you. It says you can't receive messages on here?

Today I absolutely wrecked my fuel hard line at rear of car to the point where I need to trim it back and start again. Are cheap flare kits a no go? I only want to do this job once because scorpion back and 30 year old shit in eye sucks

Linkage kit installed I need to shorten the balancing tab between carbs to fit the front one on. I need to grind down the boss on the second runner so the carbs can slide back, would also like to shave 5mm off both surfaces of manifold to gain 10mm clearance from carbs to van body (currently both flanges are 13mm thick each and overall manifold 54mm thick.

Had a win on the illusive 4age engine to gearbox braces last night on yahoo. I'm still torn about what to do with exhaust manifold, i have spoke to someone about shortening the headers and it looks like the pipes are too close to each other to fully weld. A factory ae86 cast manifold is going to cost me about $400 from Japan Or fujistsubo do a few options like this 4-2-1 stainless which I could trim or remake the lower section Or this 4-1 also fgk stainless which looks like it joins higher up from the secondary pipe they show in photos. Both of the fgk are around $¥75,000 so not cheap but probably a bit cheaper than having a set made plus the logistics and time of transporting vehicle