flyingbrick

I'm building a cnc too, it's been a bucket list thing for a while. I'm sick of farming machine work out. 

Wanted to run Linux cnc on a rpi but they are sold out world wide, so instead brought an older desktop (for cheaper than a pi anyway) so waiting for that to arrive along with all my rails and ball screws. Excite. 

1 hour ago, ajg193 said:

I'm running mach3, at high feeds in multiple axes it will start skipping. Otherwise it seems good enough.

 

Is grbl a proper real time solution or do you just send it g code via serial and pray it works right?

 

 

From what i can tell, it is a "proper" real time solution.....

However i think its only better at being "real time" and seems to suck at quite a few other things, like reliability and ease of setup.

You put GRBL on an arduino and plug that into the cnc. Then you use a "code sender" to send the G-code to the arduino. Then the arduino plods along by itself and runs the cnc. Most people seem to say that mach3 is far far far better and more reliable than grbl though- and grbl is going to have issues if your g-code asks it to compute steps faster than it can manage (This might be your issue if you have microstepping set real high?)

I'm 100% sure i want to use linux cnc now. I was cautious because I've had linux on a few PC's and although it was great (fast etc) it just didnt function as well as windows.

I'm going to run linux on a Pi. I'd have bought one today if they werent all bloody out of stock. Looks like an extremely nice interface and full of features that are not present in many other systems.

I've done a few hours reading about this now so I'm an expert. No practical experience at all- just google.

Anyway, you are welcome.

Why did you choose Linux cnc over the many other options? 

I think I have settled on simple grbl but open to other better options too. 

On 04/06/2022 at 11:18, tintin said:

Tided up this rusty piece of junk that had been sitting in the woodshed for years 

 

Shit!! I have a tabletop here for our entranceway and needed some legs. This is a perfect Idea 

Hah funny!! I saw this (or maybe another author) on trademe and wondered about it. Even watched a few YouTube vids. I just wasn't sure if it was usable as a cnc for doing cool stuff or just for milling up kitchen cabinets etc. 

Yeah buddy, slot anything in there so that it doesn't become a doorstop. 

3 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

I have nothing of value to add except that someone who did a lot of research also concurred escort was the best.

I've looked lots for the bike and everything I read said that valentine was the best. They also seem to support their customers REALLY well with updates (i think you could even send your unit in to them to have it upgraded when there were hardware updates)

Version 2.

Next up was the Exhaust hanger brackets which also hold the pillion pegs. These are cast aluminium, sculpted to suit the shape of the bike and they weigh 700g each! I love making carbon fibre stuff so I started really stretching my brain to figure out how on earth I could DIY produce something that is robust and aesthetically pleasing. These are made for MANY other bikes, but unfortunately not the busa.

First I took some measurements, then I guessed the bulk of the profile and made a thing in fusion 360. Eventually I'd like @ThePog to mill some MDF molds for me, but before then I need to make sure I can actually draw the thing properly in F360. This is TOUGH and requires skills that I don't yet have. V1 was printed overnight by legend @Roman so I could test fit it the next day. you can see that the mounting locations are all correct but the legs of the support exit the fairing in a less than ideal location (it needs to come further out as well as further forward)

one of my main problems is that I'm good at Draftsight but my licence has expired and I dont want to spend a few hundred on renewal  so am struggling along.

Also happening in parallel with the wheels is a weight loss plan involving nearly everything else.  I bought some digital fish type scales and have my super accurate resin scales, so I started just pulling stuff off and finding lighter weight replacements.

A list of weights so far is below- the Exhaust was done by the previous owner but the factory exhausts were included so I was able to weigh and compare.

The most fun of these items was the rear subframe. This is an aluminum subframe as used during the first three years of Hayabusa manufacture and I bought it in from Norway (ebay). IT was bloody cheap, but after freight and conversion etc came out to around 190 NZD. There was one recently on trademe for $400, so thats a bargain.

Its needed a huge amount of bracket trimming and cleaning up- I'm still not quite finished (have some threaded aluminum bosses being made for me which will need to be welded to the frame) but the comparison when you compare the weights is incredible. 

Being for a gen1 some of the fairing mounting bosses are in the wrong place- but there's enough in the right place to mean its not too big of a job to get the alignment correct- and the important things like rider seat retention loops are in the correct place.

The other items were all very very easy- footpeg weights to lessen vibration, pillion pegs, etc etc.

Also, strikes me as funny that they go through the trouble of using subframe mounting bolts which are drilled and relieved for weight reduction- when basically none of the other bolts on the bike are. Just seems futile considering the very minute savings.

All in all, 16.3 KG is not bad so far! but lots more to go (lighter wheels etc will help, plus stuff covered below)

I then started researching ways to chisel weight from the big thing. If you have a million bucks its EASY. You can purchase carbon or forge wheels, carbon fairings, titanium axles and bolts for the whole bike, etc etc etc. I'm always more interested in the more DIY approach which utilizes factory parts where possible. Its still expensive, but comparatively cheap.

Big news on busa forums is the R1 wheel swap idea. Guys take R1 wheels, buy a conversion axle for the front plus theres a few spacers required for the rear. The R1 wheels are lighter (though finding an accurate measurement is difficult) and they look a ton better than the factory tri spokes. 

But. R1 wheels are not readily available here in NZ. They are also expensive when they do become available (1k for the pair) and the conversion axle for the front wheel is less than elegant (its a smaller OD to fit the smaller R1 bearings, has ugly sleeves to step up to the hayabusa forks, is SOLID rather than hollow like the factory item and uses an ugly industrial bolt and washer to pull the lot together.

Once I figured that out about R1 wheels I decided to do my own research. Just because that swap exists, doesn't mean its actually the best solution!

I went on Trademe and FB Market place and found modern sports bikes being wrecked. Eventually I found a couple which had wheels available so I enquired to find pricing and then hit Google to figure out widths and bearing sizes.

I settled on gen1 ZX10R wheels which were 400$ for the pair and most importantly, share the same size axles and seals as the busa. I paid the money and they arrived a week later, then I slid the front wheel onto the busa axle with busa spacer and took some measurements. It fit near perfectly with the only modification being to the factory wheel spacer, which required 1.25mm taken off its length to center the kawasaki wheel. I have weighed the bare wheel, this looks to be 450 grams lighter for the bare front wheel than a bare Hayabusa wheel, so not bad and in line with the best case measurements I've seen for the R1 front wheel swap (+ the lighter factory front axle!)

Also, these wheels are made by enkei and look fucking great.

I had some chap machine me up the new shorter front spacer. Theres a spare for a mate with a few race bikes, he is wanting to swap to these wheels now too.

Next up, I need to buy some new front discs from a gen2 zx10r. They have the same wheel PCD and the same diameter as the hayabusa. At worst these discs will require some thin washers to center them perfectly in the caliper

When I was very young I had a Gtech timing device for my cars. No idea what happened to it but practicing 0-100 times was a hoot.

I'd love to take the busa to the strip one day (The solid clutch center contributes to this) and so when I stumbled across an indegogo project for the RaceBox Mini, I was pretty excited. Its basically a compact GPS/G sensor unit which mounts on the bike (or car) and then provides a huge amount of data on acceleration, timing, lean angles and G forces via your smart phone. I'd never signed up for any kickstarter type thing before so I was anxious, but the result couldn't have been better.

But yeah unfortunately the bikes now in bits and the rain had set in prior to disassembly so its not even been used .... But unboxing pics below. Its a quality bit of kit!

https://www.racebox.pro/products/racebox-mini

3 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Ive been using dust masks for the last 10 years now, after I started working on that Bedford cf project. I was noticing how much dust etc I had in my nose at the end of the day.  If I ever even grind something for a few seconds without a mask I quickly note how much stuff I'm breathing in. Or you see the stuff floating about in the air when grinding in the sunshine. I figure all the metal drops to the floor so what we are breathing is the fine dust from the epoxy that holds the disc together? 

@sr2  Vauxhall Viva hbs have a really nice gearstick gaitor you might like. 

Worse than that Yoeddynz, its also Fibreglass and other (probably more nasty) things that give the disc its structure.

Makes me feel sick thinking about it.

Also, check the computers grille/filter on any cnc/workshop machinery. Ya breaking that shit in all day long, its terrible.

8 hours ago, chris r said:

We sell something similar at work, same as any battery if they sit connected they discharge. The suppler recommends a trickle charger if leaving them to sit for a period of time. If disconnected they should be okay 

8 hours ago, chris r said:

Fucked if I can make this quote box disappear 

True. Battery tenders are the best thing for any battery and reliable operation. 

With that said, I believe lead acid lose around 5% and lithium ion around 2% in self discharge per month. blockquote widgetlockquote widget

23 hours ago, Transom said:

Um not really when the 16 series are about 150-160 on tard me … 

Huh? You mean a standard agm battery? 

https://www.motosouth.co.nz/products/mbhtx16

Shit this is an epic price 

1 hour ago, datlow said:

@flyingbrick hows your battery held up/how often do you ride your bike?

Its bloody great. The built in discharge protection to stop it going too low works and has saved me a few times. I took bike out today- not used for 3 or 4 weeks and it started instantly. 

You def get what ya pay for. 

Damn that looks sweet. 

Wow the correct guards suit it a whole lot better!! 

I'll do it for $25 using my supercheap digital tq wrench. 

Same deal, no paperwork but just trust me. 

17 hours ago, kws said:

If its small 1/4" stuff, i would recommend against it based on my experiences. The unit is too big and bulky. The bigger sizes (3/8" or 1/2") are probably easier to work with as there will usually be more space.

Its fine really. I just chuck on an extension to bring the cube up away from the work surface. 

I dont think i reads low enough for 1/4" stuff anyway?

4 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

They look really choice with a hardtop fitted too.. 

 

If Oldschool has taught me anything it's that every car looks cool with a sweet set of wheels.

And slam

Specialty tools are on special at sca right now 

Yeah they are the same as those sold at harbour freight. They are a genuine bargain. Not the same feel as a mechanical one and probably not as satisfying, but as long as you are not deaf so can hear the beeps, pretty darn good

No no no no no.

No.

Everyone needs to buy atleast one of these. I have one and it's awesome. They get good reviews. Cheap, accurate, compact and has some cool features that you will probably never use (the ability to calibrate other tq wrenches)

https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/toolpro-toolpro-digital-torque-adaptor-1-2-drive/377230.html