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Posts posted by flyingbrick
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19 hours ago, Willdat? said:
Caught up with this student a few weeks back. He's just finishing his second year at UC and wants to develop this project further so is going to work on it over summer. Just looking at upgrading my personal kit, is there a Knipex, or similar quality for cheaper option out there?
is there information missing from this post?
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Loving your new dash idea!
Does it allow for variable brightness?
EG, bright enough to see during the day without illuminating the whole cabin at night time
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1 hour ago, Jusepy82 said:
It's a cigweld 185 .
I can take a pic of the settings and see what u think of them if you have the time.
There is no need for that
You need to be comfortable moving the knobs around, It is perfectly normal. You should have a vague idea what kinda power to set it to (Guess), then its just a matter of fiddling with wire speed until you get it going nicely on a piece of scrap. if it gets worse- turn the knob the other direction.
The single only thing that is going to make you a better welder and more comfortable is experimentation.
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10 hours ago, Jusepy82 said:
I turned down the wire speed quite alot . Do the settings change for each individual of you know what I mean .
Settings change based on many variables.
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This is the EV thread so I'd like to assist with some balance to the fire argument:
EV's catch on fire significantly less than regular cars.
I'm sure thats a legitimate fact. like 30x less often or something. I saw it on facebook.
HAH, here
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On 28/07/2023 at 09:00, Ned said:
shop.driveev.co.nz obviously
Thanks @Ned.
Sad that there are no diddles drawn inside the packaging however I did laugh at your genuine ability to tell customers that these cables are OEM equipment
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16 hours ago, cletus said:
when i made a submission on the ruc thing i made sure to include the fact that old cars have inconsistent odometers and that would not be reliable to base charging thousands of dollars of tax on (just look at anything old on carjam)
how good would it be if they removed fuel tax but also made 40+ year old cars exempt from ruc
Theres no way they would- they'd probably charge you more to try get you off the road.
Also. Went to the zoo yesterday- phoned ahead to ask if they had chargers but when I got there I didn't have my own type2 to type2 cable stuff they don't mention when they sell you an EV lol.
Where is a good source for one of these in NZ?
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Don't have my fancy spread sheet here and I'm not checking numbers, but:
Petrol car at 2.50$ a liter doing 7ltr per 100 = $17.50 per 100.
Ev at 18 kw/hr per 100 and home charge 25c kw/hr = $4.50 per 100
Ev as above with RUC same as diesel = $12.10 per 100.
So that's a $5.40 saving with RUC over petrol.
Or $54 per thousand km
Or $5400 over 100,000.
So yes RUC will fuck them
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Good tips!!
I charge at work most of the time so the battery is still going to be cold when I leave for work (not that it matters as I have enough charge to do the return trip a couple of times on one charge)
Heated seats is a good idea vs heater, will try that If going on a long trip.
Together with folding in the side mirrors and pumping the tires to 60psi for less rolling resistance:-D
With all that said.. I do like driving it. It's a good daily.
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OK, pretty much bang on 7 days with the new BYD Atto 3.
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it has lots of features that are not really necessary but kinda nice to have.
- Some features are absolutely stupid and don't even work properly, like the inside/outside c02 sensors.
- Android auto is still a total c$#t no matter the vehicle, but especially here.. I liked it at first but then realized you have to make it leave the screen in order to change A/C settings etc. It integrates terribly and nobody can tell me that buttons on a screen are better for routinely accessed functions like that. Give me switches and knobs any day.
- Voice control of certain features is cool but it doesnt work if anyone else in the car makes any kinda noise, and its only slightly necessary before of my above complaint- sometimes its easier to tell the car to do something using your voice than going in and out of screens on the display.
- my favorite feature is probably the self opening boot, but like every new car has that these days anyway
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The stated range on these things is a lie. I haven't been able to get over 240km yet (standard range model), presumably because of the cold weather.
- The dash display which shows KM's to empty is a fuckin lie. its a scam. It shows 400km when fully charged but you only get 240. strangely it doesn't seem to matter much if you are in eco mode and drive like a pussy or if you are in sports mode...and since i can charge every day at work I'm better off just leaving it in sport and driving like a dick.
- A tesla really presents better value TBH, especially a lightly used one (like any car i guess)
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6 hours ago, Willdat? said:
The V2L capability looks pretty sweet. Charge at work and run your appliances at home for maximum benefit.
Yeah that is pretty impressive actually, I found that lead in the boot. I have no idea about capacity etc but if it's enough to run our water pump when we have a power cut I'd be totally impressed for life.
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19 hours ago, Alfashark said:
A couple of day of driving an EV6:
They're disconcertingly large - The designers did a great job of hiding that in the overall shape. It's only when you stand next to it that you realise the wheel/tire is 29" in diameter and when sitting in it, I'm higher than in the Niro.
The momentum you can carry in it is unreal as well - With regen set to 0, I rolled from the hill at the western end of Arapuni village at 70kph, and climbed the small rise past the old church and around the bend where the swing bridge path is at about 62-ish, so nearly 1km of free rolling.
Silence coupled with immediate response to the go-pedal meant some genuinely brown pants moments when overtaking a couple of horse boxes on the way to work yesterday.
Charging isn't a hassle - I've got an RCD equipped lead to granny charge it at home until I get the wall charger installed and have had a couple of juice ups on public chargers, pretty simple once you work the apps out and not any hardship given one of the chargers is a 30sec walk from my local caffeine establishment.
sheez, how did you get your mits on one of those?
Edit: not the GT?
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Got a new BYD atto3 as a work car today.
my workmate gets in and says to the car "hi BYD, set ambient lighting to purple"
The ambient lighting then turns purple. My workmate gets out, shuts the door. Points at me and says
" HAH! gayyyyyyyyyy"
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On 26/05/2023 at 20:26, Raizer said:
While working on the VFD/motor install I noticed the middle pulley was super stiff to turn and made some interesting noises.
While the mill is "new", 40odd years of sitting unused really hasn't been good for the grease in the bearings at all, it's gone rock hard.Spindle came out without too much drama
The driver gets pushed out the top of the head
And pulled back down, all the splines in it were caked up with hard dark dried out oil/grease/shipping protection gunge
Took a sec to realize these are LH thread lol
And all cleaned up ready for the new spindle bearings to arrive in the morning.
I know a few of you on here have RF30 and RF30 clones, so it might be useful to post the bearing specs
Spindle: 7206 and 7207 both 2RS - That's changing from open tapered roller bearings to sealed angular contact ball.
EDIT: It appears sealed options are VERY hard to find in NZ, so 30206J and 30207J it is for now
Bit more research makes it look like for sealed it's either FAG or dirt cheap generic Chinese bearings, no SKF/NTN/Nachi etc options.
FAG 7206-B-XL-2RS-TVP and FAG 7207-B-XL-2RS-TVP are what I really want, but are around $300 for the 2 shipped from Europe.6009 x2 for the top driver
6204 x2 for the middle pulley
One of the worst things that any machine can do is sit idle- ESPECIALLY if they are in a machine shop or area that experiences vibration. This goes for electric motors, lathes, mills, any of that stuff.
Vibration causes Brinelling (if memory is correct!) as the balls or rollers jiggle and vibrate in the same location- so even though slides etc can be absolutely perfect, its quite possible to find multiple bearings are stuffed.
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I love it. had no idea there were so many of these around!
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On 11/05/2023 at 16:16, cletus said:
Yes for some reason.
It's a cunt of a material to make brake pipes from
old boss of mine had a few lengths of SS brake pipe turn up taped to a length of timber (eg, dead straight). The apprentice folded it in half after he removed it from the packaging- he didn't know it was for the owners hotrod and was supposed to stay dead straight fark that was a great day.
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ps, Was super fun trying to fit my D into your little box.
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They only really get used for setup alignment anyway.
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I JUST HATE CHANGE AND I DONT WANT THEM F'ING WITH MY SHIT.
(hahahahah)
I was hopeful that someone would come in and go " well technically thats a huge fail"
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have just had new vehicle tracking installed on our vehicles. They have demanded that unit (which is like an old GPS style device) is mounted in the middle of the vehicle where it blocks visibility- there is a perfect spot for it on the RHS where this is completely alleviated.
Management has said that its not been a WOF issue in the past and the centre location is fine- I have argued that it may be fine, but it could also be better- I have told the installer to move it and I'll cop any flak that comes my way - just stupid people making stupid decisions.
So, I know you can get a ticket for having dangly shit hanging off your rear vision mirror- but could there possibly be wof concerns with having it in the middle as they want? I'm willing to go to war over this, cant stand rules that aren't logical.
(the second image is what i want. The first image is what we are being told is our managements standard that must be adhered to)
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Looks like you are sorted but years ago I build a guy a bead roller (fyi it was fuckin badass, huge laser cut side plates spaced apart with heavy steel spacers)
He had me adapt it to work with a motor and gear reduction unit he found new on ebay which was for positioning either telescopes or satellite dishes (something that looks at the sky lol).
Thought it was a cool solution.
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16 hours ago, dmulally said:
Next thing to sort will be the rust. I have bought a door from a 1930's pommy something and pick it up this weekend. Only $10 and cheaper than buying fresh steel from Steel and Tube.
nice clean new zinc coated sheet is soooo nice to work with and not that expensive
Arduino stuff/ programing/so cheap
in Tech Talk
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I mean, knipex is a brand isn't it? Do you mean is there a similar quality brand in general?