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Posts posted by twisted
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Does anyone have a good source for flywheel magnets? I would prefer neodymium vs ferriite due to their lighter weight.
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yeah, so this happened:
Long story short, a valvecover bolt thread (valve cover screws screw in to a nipple rather than a hole....) split and fragmented into valvetrain, breaking all rocker arms on intake cam and scoring the shit out of the same cam
So options i have:
1.give up
2. find and buy a second hand motor
3. find and buy second hand motor as a stop gap, and rebuild current motor with FZR600 pistons and cam grind making a 442cc. maybe flatsides as well.
leaning toward option 3, option 1 is a no go, too much time spent on this thing already
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Well that was easier than expected. Massive thanks to @kseries.rookie for sorting me out with some gear so I could get this done today.
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Been chipping away at this, I gave up on the perennially leaking forks, and took them to a shop on the hutt to sort. Turns out the bushes I was supplied were wrong, so genuine ones from Japan were ordered and installed with new seals.
At the same time I picked up some sintered pads, and painted the front disc centres as one was red and one silver.
The front wheel was pretty rough, having sat for a couple of years with fork oil slowly eating away at the paint on the lips. So I decided to strip the lips back and polish the alloy.
Also polished up the top triple tree and bar risers.
Also bought some mirrors for $20 from aliexpress, and have ordered a fairing bolt kit. Mirrors have arrived and bolts are on their way.
So left to do is sort the front indicators out, finish polishing the rear wheel, throw on the under bike exhaust hanger and bolt up all the fairing. Then wof
Still have to sort out the testarossa style side vents, and all the infill plastics which are in progress, but can also wait for a bit.
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So. Been toiling away on this. Have been getting beyond frustrated with the paint as i was getting reaction after reaction on the tail. Took Friday off a couple of weeks ago and dusted it on outside and in the sun and success! no more reactions.
Havent done anything about mirrors yet, currently deciding if i pick some up with integrated indicators, and throw some spots/DRLS where the front indicators are currently, or just blank them off.
Brakes are on the to do list, along with small things like Bar ends, Swingarm bobbins, crash bungs etc.
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So, had it confirmed that the SV650 Speed sensor works, so have tracked one down. Expecting that to arrive this week sometime.
In the meantime, i got on with the bodywork. Had a helper when stripping the tank:
Got a coat of frame colour on just for now, still a number of imperfections that need to be sorted on the fairings and one small dent on the tank, but going to take my time and just rock it like this for a while. Just need to organise mirrors and i'll be good for a WoF.
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2 hours ago, datlow said:
Not doing a 99% finished a project so bought a new one trick are ya?
lol nope, not yet anyway. SV speed sensor works on mine.
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Anyone hoarding any first generation SV650 parts?
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So, Drive gear arrived, and of course its a mechanical type, where mine is an electronic type. They don't seem to be easy to find, as the part number on impex.jp (54600-32c02) is for a mechanical type. It looks like the Suzuki Boulevard C50 uses the same one so will do a bit more research to ensure it will fit (looks the same)
Heres my broken one, as you can see, its fubared on two fronts:
First, all 4 tabs that slot in to the wheel are broken off:
Second, all three wires had broken beneath the outer casing:
I'm picking these are a pretty generic part, and as long as the O.D is the same and the tabs are the same, it should be sweet?
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So, now i know It rides well, and i have to wait for speedo drive gear and mirrors to arrive before taking it for a wof, i thought i would turn my attention to bodywork and start stripping the tank.
The red that was on it is absolutely horrible, and is melting into a sticky mess under the heat gun, unlike the black underneath it which just lifts slightly allowing me to scrape it off easily. Took the tank off after these pics were taken and did the complete left hand side. I've finally settled on a colour i think, and am keen as beans to get this thing finished, so will be spending a fair few nights in the coming weeks prepping bodywork.
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3 hours ago, Transom said:
@twisted Hey I found a rf900 rear shock in my shed rebound adjust and remote res with hard/soft adjustment - going for the price of courier to you if you want ?
Yup keen as PM acct details and cost when you're ready
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On 09/10/2017 at 14:19, 00quattro00 said:
I havent had a good run with those pyramid parts. I just buy genuine seals now
Yeah, not sure if i fucked up or not but both forks are leaking badly. Have bought some Vesrah Seals from colemans which i hope to get in tonight.
Picless update, but got the swingarm off again last night, and installed the chain guide that i missed last time. got everything back together, and torqued down, set the chain tension and rear wheel alignment. All thats left to do before the shakedown ride Is Fork Seals, Battery and Brakes. Might even be out on it on the weekend!
Still lots to do on the fairings though, and i have a higher capacity tank arriving off a 900 sometime in the next few days which will need a good tidy up and paint, but i think in the short term i'm just gonna give it a couple of coats of mattyb until i've settled on a colour.
Will try to remember to snag some pics next time i'm out in the garage
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Yeah certainly makes the case for spending a bit of coin on a nice can when its all done. Will be giving cycleworks a call i think. Don't think i'll get away with open headers hah.
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Got it fired up over the weekend.
Scuse the potato video, broke my phone so had to employ the backup potato.
Threw the radiator back on last night, filled it with coolant and let it run (with muffler) for a good half an hour to ensure that the thermostat worked and fan would kick in. Ran bloody mint and everything works as its supposed to.
Unfortunately both the swingarm and forks have gotta come off again, as i forgot the swingarm chain guide when i put it back together, and the seals failed badly in the rhs fork. But thats ok, because apart from those two things all i have left to do are the brakes and bodywork.
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Found some motivation last week.
Reinstalled cables into twist grip (sorry, no photos of the actual process, i was too busy swearing at it. not my favourite job)
Then finished plugging everything in. Mounted the battery tray, put the dash on chucked airbox back on and hooked up Jumper cables to the + and - terminals and checked for power. Success! Power!
Checked a few more things and then turned the key and hit the starter. Wasn't expecting it to turn over, but it did. Next up i'm gonna throw some fresh gas at it and see if it will fire up.
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Anyone got an old set of MTB rigid forks lying around? Need to have a threaded 1 1/8th steerer, and suit cantilever/V-brakes
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I hate to suggest this, but the missus has a datsun wingroad with an MR18DE and CVT combo. I hate CVTs but its a suprisingly capable car. It handles well for an appliance, is quite utilitarian inside and its bloody cheap to run. Not much has gone wrong with it in the 100k/4 years we've had it.
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Also Mother in Law has the earlier shape Caldina GTT, and its a total pile of steaming dog shit. Electrical gremlins for africa.
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2004+ 3L Legacy is the answer. Cam chain so no annoying cambelts to do. 190odd killawasps, engines are bulletproof and easy asf to do regular maintenence on*
Dont buy one thats been cooked
Dont buy one with PS issues
*except plug changes and rockercover gaskets - but both items will last 100k
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"When the testing is carried out overseas, before shipping to Australia, certification must be from an overseas testing laboratory accredited by the NATA equivalent testing authority in that overseas country. The local testing authority must be a signatory to a Mutual Recognition Arrangement (MRA) with NATA. Testing carried out overseas should be undertaken at, or equivalent to, Australian standards."
Too hard basket?
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I was going to recommend Pirelli Dragon Sports, but they're asymmetric. Outstanding wet grip though if you decide you can do non directionals.
Hyperdrive have Nankang NS20 Noble sports in those sizes. 286.99ea for the fronts and 394.99ea for the rears. no experience with nankangs though
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Bike spam thread
in General Bike Chat
Posted
Can anyone answer a question re: TCI ignition and trigger wheels?
Long story short, is it possible for a TCI box to run two sets of timing (ie: mapped for two different trigger wheels)?
If the answer is no, and the engine runs as it should, wtf could be going on?