KKtrips

3 minutes ago, vk327 said:

i  was just reading this post,  stick to the known brands like painless there are some cheap knockoffs around,  they are the easiest way to  do  a rewire from scratch only thing worth addding is relays for heavy loads like headlights, grab a factory diagram  for the commodore and give it a go (dont just  cut  the old loom out may need to  trace out heater and wiper wiring)

I have fully removed the wiring loom, so nothing to "cut out" (it's still all one piece at the back of my lockup)

Did you get a generic one or the GM keyed column version?

Has anyone bought and used one of the generic wiriing kits (from Painless Wiring etc)

Anything I should know before buiying and I'm thinking for the ol Commy, 21 ciircuits should be plenty?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-10102

#bloody-larakins

I highly rate Pete at Walker and McCluskie @W&M on John St in Wellington if anyone is in the market.

On 15/07/2020 at 12:41, kyteler said:

 

It's also certed (I doubt for as low as it is) and turbo charged. 

Nice ass

The seam sealer replicates factory. It lasted 30ish years before it first started turning to shit and I figure it won't be my problem in the next 30 years cos I doubt I'll last that long or at least be senile enough they won't let me drive. I'm stoked with the colour.

4 hours ago, tortron said:

So the bushing should go through the pedal rather than be tacked on the end I'm guessing?

I wanna make a new one too actually. 

Can original be heat bent and I weld the pedal pad back on shorter?

Correct, pivot must go through the pedal, not welded to the end.

No, pedal cannot be heated and bent. 

6 hours ago, jakesae101 said:

@cletus building a brake pedal when welding the bushing into the pedal what are the rules is it like all other safety critical components where its Tig followed by NDT?

Yes, brake pedal can only be welded for the pivot and where the pedal pad attaches to the pedal arm. Must be TIG welded, and must pass NDT and include a report from the testing lab. 
See your certifier and ask them for an F008 to be filled out so the test lab knows what they are testing and what standard they must use. 

5 minutes ago, Nominal said:

I'm still grumpy that they wouldn't provide the pdf version to people that had purchased the paper version previously.

You'll soon be able to get it for free.

Also to be fair, they are 2 seperate commodities, if you got the free PDF version then you have 2 copies of the manual.

To be fair, the price increase was not our call, but NZTA gave us money to update the standards faster and some extra project work (among other things)

They said they would put XX% of the amount we needed to do the extra work, provided we made up the other ZZ%. So after they gave us the money then they insisted we made up our ZZ% through a plate fee increase. (trust me its not very much money when you see how much NZTA blow on consultants and the like)

39 minutes ago, cletus said:

Only if @KKtrips is doing the formset review  

I have a full album of Clints nutsack from multiple angles and reflecting from shiny surfaces.

Get ya bluetack out.

Also, if you can't fit them in the door frame then they will still need to be in a prominent position where they are easy to find and check. They cannot be hidden.

1 minute ago, kyteler said:

They don't look thin enough to go in a shut? It might just be hard to judge the scale from the photographs. 

We have tried a lot of doors and not one that we found gets close enough to be a problem. They are less than 8mm thick.  (7.5mm to be precise - I just measured one)

1 minute ago, Nominal said:

Like, inside the inner door trim out of sight?

I don't think so, more around the door catch, so they can be found easily by a WoF inspector, the Police or other authority. They are not meant to be hidden away.

No, they will be mounted inside the door frame unless there is an incredibly compelling reason not to.

/what Clint said. Also it should stop the guys who borrow a set of wheels/insert name of part from their mate to pass cert and then switch them back as soon as the plate is riveted to the vehicle.

1 hour ago, kyteler said:

Quick Cert query. 

I saw something pop up recently that they're changing to RFID discs?

@cletus  @KKtrips

 

Yep, should make it easier for certifiers because they won't need to get the vehicle back to fit the plate. The tag will be fitted at the time of inspection and livened up once the cert has been processed as OK.

On 04/10/2020 at 11:26, ThePog said:

Never say I don't follow through on my promises....

Ahem...

On 08/09/2020 at 21:49, KKtrips said:

Next level challenge
 

 

21 hours ago, shizzl said:

But not an adaptor.. So only 4 bolts, not 8 I take it.

Yes