KKtrips

3 hours ago, Banga said:

I used a Painless one in my Cortina, wires a labelled all the way along which made it much simpler for a noob like me.

Full rewire and everything worked as intended and nothing caught fire- would trade again.

Want to do a perk job wiring mine?

So, has anyone ever wired up a vehicle using one of these 21 circuit wiring kits?
How did you find it?

17 minutes ago, Nominal said:

That's a good looking 308 you've built!

"308"

There are some thoroughly hairy mopars running around without an EWP and not overheating, so it has to be either a water to air-flow issue or tuning issue.
I'm leaning towards air-flow cos Clint ain't no dummy and the tuning issues should be within a range that it won't fuck with the temps, so either there isn't enough cool air passing over the rad or the water is not in the rad long enough to cool down.

When you pulled t-stat out, did you leave a restrictor in place?

Just got the dimensions from the internet. Please excuse the freedom units.

Once removed from the shroud, this fan is about 4 inches deep from the end of the motor to the furthest point on the front of the fan. After it is removed, you'll find that the OUTER RING is about 17.5 inches across. The actual fan blade portion diameter on this fan is 388 mm (15.27 inches)

2 minutes ago, cletus said:

Do you know how thick the fan is at the motor? 

That's the reason I haven't fitted a big electric fan, the rad is fairly close to the water pump pulley  

My guess is that it is thinner than that shroud looks in the photos, but they are a bit thicker than I'd like, but only at the fan motor, however I did have to change the bolts holding my water pump on to countersunk jobbies to give me enough clearance.
But I also have a dumb front crossmember that gets in the way and had to make a weird shaped fan shroud which spaced the fan blades an inch away from the radiator fins.

TLDR -  the fan blades and housing are not crazy thick, bu the motor is chunky, I can measure on Friday day and give you some actual measurements. They are actually a huge diameter though and if I mount it flat against my radiator, an inch of fan blade would sit above or below the radiator fins.

The fan unit look like this - all the wiring a direct positive and negative feed to the battery and a pair of wires back to a 2 stage toggle switch in dash
(With my new motor I am going to wire one side to a thermo switch so stage 1 will turn on automatically and put stage 2 to an override for when I notice it getting a bit scorchy)


 

Joining the helpful suggestion team, whats the AFR like at idle? can you fatten it up a bit? Lean equals HOT water temps.

If that is not an issue, then if you are looking for a fan that moves MUCHO air, then go to Pickapart and look at the Volvo's grab their fan, the wiring and relays. They are super simple to figure out and they have 2 speeds fucking fast, and even faster again, sounds like a fuckin Fokker Friendship taxi-ing for take off.

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/volvo_electric_fan.shtml

You'd be surprised how big can fit in a galv bath, I've seen entire boat trailers dipped.

20 hours ago, Kiwibirdman said:

Those gauges are awesome. What are they?. Also are you planning to keep the EFI on the 304. @vk327 does a brilliant job on the loom and his mate in Palmy sorts out the computer for not a lot of money. The 304 in my EJ goes pretty hard and is amazingly good on fuel. Also starts immediately after sitting for weeks.

They are NVU gauges - https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/gauges/ yeah thet are awesome. Glad I took the leap with them

Nah staying carbied with the 304. If anything I might change to the FiTech injection setup but that is a while down the road I think.

Car is getting a full require with one of the 21 circuit wiring kits, once I have the engine and all the electrical accessories in place, that's this months job, to get the electrical stuff mounted up.

2 hours ago, j.e.d. said:

Love those gauges man, so much better than the factory.. something I’m interested to know though, do RH drive cars typically have the speedo on the right with the rev counter on the left and vice versa for LH drive cars? 
Looking at your setup just got me thinking that’s all.. 

I replicated the OE except for the water temp and voltage which I flipped for personal preference.

10 hours ago, Bistro said:

sheeeeeit those guages look sliick 

 

progress looks good. pressure on me ahahah 

Don't worry, my progress is still considerably glacial.

2 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Only a 240k speedo?

What happens if you get out of second gear???? 

At that point, I'll be relying on the rev counter.

Try https://www.comac.co.nz/
 

2 hours ago, _Matt said:

Thanks man! This has kept my hopes up that it hasn’t failed miserably hahaha

It's all good to go, processed it through this avo, but won't go live till Monday, the plate guy had gone home by the time I finished the review.

Oh hello. What's this we have here...

3 minutes ago, VintageSpecial said:

Oops, got two replies combined there.

As I was saying Chris very much appreciated and nice and clear. 

For point 3 do you think an organisation like the VCC can help here? Does it help if we have other examples for instance? We already have the VCC DOMAS form which is where the VCC inspect the car and say what it is and what class of car but I don't know if that form helps with the LVVTA process at all?

Point 4 helps clear that up, thank you. Does the vehicle then get a new identity if considered scratch built. So say it was a 1930 Bentley saloon and a new Le Mans style racing style body was coach built for it in 2021 so the car falls under scratch built would it then be a 1930 or a 2021 registered car? Does it get a new VIN? I don't think that happens much here to be honest. But it definitely does in the UK.

Point 5. Yes, am documenting everything. You need lots of reference material when trying to replicate something of course when you don't have an original right there to copy.

Thanks again for such concise answers.

Simon

 

point 3 - VCC can assist you with producing the evidence that you might need from their archives, but they are not directly involved in the decision making process.

point 4 - Yes a vehicle will get a new identity if it is a scratch built, and they are registered as the year that they are completed, typically they year of final inspection, your example would probably be named a : 2021 LVV Replica Bentley Le Mans

point 5 - Did you have a body that you based your design on or did you just make it up out of your head for what looked right? Perhaps you have some images of that, the internet would probably be a great source.

No problems. Happy to help.

51 minutes ago, VintageSpecial said:

1) Can you explain a little more around building a scratch built car about what parts you can/can't use?

2) Can you explain a bit more what the process is then for cars made from parts?

3) Does that mean it has to be an exact replica of an actual existing car? How does it work for cars where no two originals were the same?

4) If you start with a registered Austin 7 on the road now, rip off the body and put on a new one is that modified production or scratch built?

5) So how do you (LVVTA/NTZA) determine how accurate something is? Obviously it will vary case to case but what sorts of proof or evidence do we need to provide?

I've summarised your post into the questions and will do my best to answer as accurately as I can. This is entirely unofficial advice as there is no documented answers I can fall back on, so this can only be considered a subjective opinion at best.

1) A scratch built vehicle can be made up of any parts, as long as they are automotive parts that meet the relevant requirements.

2) The process for a car made from a pile of parts is that they are nearly always deemed to be scratch-built. It is unlikely that a car made from a collection of parts could be called a modified production vehicle. (also refer to my point about rebirthing stolen vehicles in my previous post)

3) This is a tricky one - it should replicate an existing vehicle but if they were all effectively a unique appearing vehicle, then I think there may be grounds to consider a replica vehicle built using similar construction methods and materials, however it must replicate in appearance and performance to what you would expect from a vehicle at the time. (ie: you can't make a space ship shaped body running a smallblock Chevy on a 1927 Rolls Royce chassis and say it is a Historical Replica because 1927 Rolls Royces were all unique coach built to order)

4) It's easier to explain this one with some scenarios for vehicles with identity
- Replacing the body on a vehicle with like for like is a repair and is considered OE production vehicle, (example - fitting an unfucked Hilux body onto a Hilux chassis that has had the body rolled over and squashed)
- Modifying the body on a vehicle is a modification that requires certification, and is considered a modified production vehicle, (example - cutting a Corolla station wagon into a ute body)
- Fitting a full custom body on a vehicle makes the vehicle a scratch-built vehicle (example - fitting a fibreglass beach buggy body onto a VW beetle floorpan)
Almost all vehicles without identity will fall into a scratch-built category unless they successfully apply Alt Docs and the vehicle gains an identity through that process.

5) Suitable information would be a description of the vehicle that your replica is replicating, it should include information covering the full running gear, chassis, construction methods etc alongside with as many images of the vehicle as is possible, pair the same information for your vehicle and we can make a comparison. It does not have to be a rivet for rivet identical, but if we can compare them, see a comparable silhouette, find substantially similar running gear and construction, then there is a possibility it could be accepted as a Historic Replica.

Again - this is not official advice, but the best I can provide having sat in on these meetings before where these determinations have been made.