fishtailfred

heres mine with 50mm cable in "60 amp" solder terminals. http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_4214.jpg note also the extra "8 gauge" wires are also fused. nothing goes more than 30cm without a fuse. i care that that ute doesnt burn!! EDIT, yeah, that discussion about wire size WAS in my thread, see the sig for the link.

A few things to consider : Definitely run a fuse/breaker, if you care about your car/luggage/passengers etc. The reason they arent fused factory is the very short run direct from starter to battery. there are no sharp edges there and its very well secured. Your (and mine) home job won't be to that high a standard unless you try very very hard. All the stuff said about instantaneous and continuous current draw is true. I have a 100amp breaker and i have cranked continuously around in the driveway for about a minute without blowing it. If you do decide to be smart (not OTT really) and use one, make sure its really close to the battery and the cable between them is secure and safe or there isn't much point. Welding cable for the win, high temps, rugged, durable, some chem resistance etc. its cheap, and good. what more do you want. Sizing wise, its entirely distance dependent. IE, if you double the distance, double the cross sectional area. I've written some crap about this stuff in a thread on here before somewhere. stuffed if i know which thread though. maybe my own one? anyway, so if you factory uses 8mm^2 cable for the starter and its 1m long, if you want the same voltage drop performance at 4m long you need 32mm^2. for this reason, i went with 50mm^2 and it cranks like a bat out of hell. i wouldnt go under 25mm whatever you do. you can ground it to the panels, but i'd recommend that if you do that, you ground in at least two places and do it well at that. i grounded to two places locally and ran one 50mm fwd as well for ground. having said all that, i'm a mad cunt and definitely into OTT stuff! depends if you want it to work at all or work well. starters draw more and more current as they wear out. a good fresh one will be sweet. fred.

you will probably want to reindex the pieces that go on the far end of the torsion bars when you adjust them or they will hang out the bottom somewhat. i didnt do that to mine yet, but i will be for sure. you can not do it and its no different load/lowering wise but the bits can get knocked out when you run over stuff.

as much as the flip flop stuff can work, why not just configure the link to output a tach signal thats appropriate? surely a commercial grade ecu can do that no worries.

All you guys need to stop and consider the difference between flow and pressure and the relationship between them. EDIT : except testament there is no such thing as a pump that puts out XX psi. period. there is such a thing as the max pressure the pump can handle, and the pressure that its flow is rated at. usually they have a no load flow too. ie, at 0psi my 044 will move 300lph. at 75psi its down to about 255lph or so. it only falls on its face at some horrendoues pressure like 120psi. hence i chose it for boost. (boost you have boost + base pressure of 40 - 50 psi or more, so i could end up pushing the pump to around the 90psi + mark with 60 base and 30 boost.) consult the fpr manufacturer as to the maximum flow capability of the regulator. that will give you an answer. which bosch pump do you have? hope that helps. fred.

mine didnt last a year before looking just the same. two seperate vehicles, my old mirage that i binned and the utes intermediate carburated incarnation too. also, my pieces of spare werent looking healthy just sitting in a box thats why all the hose on the ute is quality goodyear hose will be interesting to see how its liked 2 years soaked in 33% toluene though. meant to flush it out, but didnt get a chance.

"...afraid..." chicken i always thought shift lights were total rice, but lindsays car almost needs one with the limiter and the redline being the same exact 8k and the engine pulling all the way hard. and the ute also could benefit from one particularly in the lower gears as an indication (incase the other clues didnt give it away) that you are spinning your wheels. on other engines i've had the pleasure of thrashing the time to change gears was obvious from a "its not pulling anymore" point of view. including the skyline. that gravel road sounds like fun i love rough n tumble, it emphasizes your ability to choose a good line I still say that fuel hose was already 20 years old and would have been cracked before you filled up. possibly any softening reduced the small remaining strength and initiated your leaks, but other than that, all fuel is corrosive to normal rubber and all fuel system rubber is treated (i forget how, nitrile?) for that reason anyway. it will be an interesting experiment to find the knock threshold of timing in boost with mobil, bp, and gull 98 at say 8 or 10psi on my high comp pistons. i wonder, do the spec its MON number? i rang BP and Mobil about that once, and one was 1 unit higher than the other, but i forgot which soon after. MON makes more difference to a boosted engine. will definitely be keeping an eye on you!

apparently i suck at searching i have a bit of catching up to do you understand about the car : i had one of those digital tachos in the ute till recently too have you considered wiring up the revlimiter option? or does yours already have that via electronic ign? nice steering wheel! not tacky. love the stacks on the carbs! both the look and the sound are just awesome love the pic of the car next to the gravel road sign covered in dust. last time i stopped near one of those it went home with me the photo with the sun behind is lovely fantastic photo! about that fuel hose : the bits under the hose clamps also haven't been exposed to O2 which is what causes the perishing. I strongly doubt that the 10% alc caused you any problems, more likely a coincidence the yanks have been using the low alc blends for a long time without headaches. it should burn more cleanly too. what octane is it? are blends like e85 available in nz yet? that would be sweet. i could leave my compression as is and run high boost on pump gas if we could get that. keep an eye on those repco hoses in a few years if you still have her. they dont age the best. going hard and cracking in a period of months or a year or two. you should youtube the trackday vids of your car with the stacks from chelles track day a while back. it sounded nice ripping past. link them here if you do! fred.

firstly, thats only a factor for the rings, and possibly cam lobes/lifters, all other parts want the best from the word go. re read that and thats what you meant i guess, but posting it anyway, just because. rule 1 : synth is good. rule 2 : all additives are bad. rule 3 : change it regularly no matter what it is unless you have very fine bypass filtration, and then change when the oil analysis comes back saying you should.

http://www.tx3nz.com/img/dr30-sedan/PC200342.JPG is that a bosch part? the later ones are all mitsi arent they? or do bosch make a drop in for the mitsi? my ex-skyline had a dodgy idle and would stall all the time and rev and labour at idle etc. turned out to be two things : pwm idle valve stiff/sticky and bearing in CAS unit near siezed, but coming free sometimes. the result of the latter one is that the ecu thought that rpm were increasing and decreasing when they werent due to the stiff/free and freeplay being taken up and released continually... i have a pic a lot like yours http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_3755.jpg it was 8mm too long and running into the clutch disk when i tried to fit the engine to the box

LOL, yeah, thats true. then again, if its also not registered to the right address... they give up fairly quickly unless you have say 3 willing witnesses who are happy to testify woops. I still think they'll give me less trouble than they did in the black ex-skyline though, and definitely less trouble than the 500 times i got pulled in my matt black 83 mirage geneva II with 8 speed box that ran 19 flat at mere mere with no aircleaner i actually had a warrant, reg, and licence with nothing wrong and nothing owing, so i took to making them feel bad and demanding that they tell me why they followed me for 5km first etc... ummm urrrrr always worth a laugh.

Not really, but I've learnt about voltage drops, loose connections and bad earths: Voltage drop, thy name is Alfa Romeo! Questions like "Why are the headlights dim?", "Why are the wipers so slow?" and "Why does the clock backlighting dim in time with the indicators?" can always be partially explained with a multimeter. lmao! i'm thinking strong magnets on it and electromagnets on the chassis, that way they cant really screw you for having a hiding mechanism if you do get caught. nothing like that yet though. its always been a swinging plate on that ute, just now it has proper s/s hinges too yup, is definitely the way to go for most stuff for sure. the bigger the city and the further from home you are the better though. it did dawn on me recently that although i used to get away with a lot in that ute that all the builders/tradesmen have bought new ones now so its not so dirt common as it was when it was younger. unfortunate but i'm going to try to keep it externally plain at least from a distance. a set of plain steel wheels are on the list for daily use. like i said, its always been a swinging plate, and although i fully intend to use such things to good purpose, they are as pointed out multi purpose. the switchability of the reverse lights was primarily so i could park it with the engine idling and use them to do stuff in what would otherwise be darkness behind. i wouldnt like to leave them on with the engine off, and without the switch that couldnt be done. its also going to be a double way switch so that it can be overridden off too. no point blinding poor pricks in traffic and shaking the hot filaments unecessarily during the day etc.. also, dont forget the rear light dropout switch that kills all the lights at the back for those night time runners i didnt do any of that stuff for show. i didnt do anything for show. i did it because i can see it being useful.

here ya go : that doesnt do it justice really, but you get the idea sweet.

Three point five psi? Your mama blows harder than that! LOL, that was with the wastegate wide open, it felt soooo good, dead flat torque. brilliant. felt pretty damn good getting pushed into the seat too though, must admit. making about 185hp with the "wind" and 385 with 17.5psi boost. estimates based on fuel duty and therefore flow. rotflmao, yeah, i always wanted great reversing lights, so i built them right into the design for this they are brilliant to have too. cracked me up on the test drives, back into some poor sleepy buggers drive to turn around and light up their entire house like an xmas tree! never again will i not see something when reversing! aaaaaannnnnddddddd you call yourself an electrical engineer??? 50sqmm at 4m 25sqmm at 2m 12.5sqmm at 1m 6.25sqmm at 0.5mm (its actually more like a 5 metre run too) ie, its comparable or worse voltage drop wise to the oem starter leads that are most cars. its actually got a nice late model jap planetary box style starter that goes faster, lasts longer, is lighter, and draws less current doing it. i did it for the voltage drop, not the overall current rating. both things should be considered when choosing wire for any application and i dont like underkill or kill. its overkill all the way baby

and from garrets site : http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... s.html#t16 enjoy.

gidday, correct i am not using one because they are detrimental to turbo life in most cases and not required in most cases. i got it from the manual here : http://www.holset.co.uk/files/4_4_1-ser ... anuals.php you dont have to run their executable, its just a zip file. unzip it as normal. in summary, most turbos that are journal bearing dont need a restrictor. most BB turbos DO need one. whats important is that the drain to the sump is good, and the crank pressure low. hope that helps fred.

sweet does this count : yes, those are cable ties holding the bumper to the grill sorted!

Thanks (again) guys Its cool, as much as i am all for breaking rules, some rules have a good reason I wonder if a projects subforum to keep any newschool projects of OS members out of the way of general stuff might be better? just a suggestion. might be better to be totally seperate from the other projects and mixed in here anyway for the one/all reason. if i duct tape a 76 front end to it for the day can i bring it to the track (sure hoping so, chelles doesnt run enough of them to keep me satisfied) i'll look into the minitruckin.co.nz site when i get a minute. any questions are welcome too... you could ask about the 200w reversing lights with override for blinding cops or the shared ground dropout switch for removing all rear lighting off to bed for me

i'm sure you guys know what a red courier looks like, but heres someone elses anyway, just in case you dont as i have no good pics of mine from the front : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 1989-2.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... er1989.jpg this one taken from a video is it : roughly what power its making at the crank : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... /power.jpg (estimated based on afr, advance, compression, octane, and most importantly, fuel consumption, its flowing 2.2l per minute and isnt overly rich. its hard to not make big power with that occuring. and how much it made before roughly : http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff26 ... o-curv.png diff housing in in primer ready for some gloss : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... rwhole.jpg the door on my container welded shut to keep her safe while i'm away. http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_4486.jpg the intake being built : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_4342.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_4341.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_4367.jpg ex mani primed : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_4004.jpg pre primer : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_3989.jpg chassis pics : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... eLeft2.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... sLine2.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... tGuard.jpg before : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... InBott.jpg engine guts : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_3712.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_3715.jpg sump on : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_3716.jpg new cams installed : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 2_3200.jpg trusty female assistent : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_3645.jpg trusty assistent named cam : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_3633.jpg empty engine bay : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_0131.jpg the turbo : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/fredio54/1-1.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... /he351.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/fredio54/1-2.jpg inside the sump before the top plate : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... fter-1.jpg outside of some pre paint : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... sump-5.jpg with plate : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... sump-7.jpg the team responsible for cop spotting on teh mission to drive it from A to B with no warrant, panels, rego, on hold, etc etc trusy prs and scanner http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... ewHome.jpg stuff i like to do other than cars (warning, these are huge animated gifs) : fishing : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... tput-2.gif boating : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... tput-1.gif easily the best engine bay shot i have (taken by someone else while i was busy fixing something that bad broken after a short maidne voyage : that'll do for now fred.

This vehicle is the first in the world to run a Puma board (as designed by Marcos/nitrousnrg) and the second to run FreeEMS! It's the first to run FreeEMS with ignition, first with COP, first with boost, first in New Zealand, etc etc. It's pretty special to me for a variety of reasons, not least of which is that I learned to drive in it. It's been with me for 2/3 of my life and i've had a lot of good times, and bad, and fond memories in, on, and around this truck. The truck used to run a moderately modified ms2e/V3 with various short falls and flaws with the original design fixed or patched. Hence the db37 connector, during development I wanted to keep it mobile and plug and play compatible with my custom ms box. I'm happy to say that I will never run MegaSquirt on any of my vehicles again. Man it felt good to type that! If you've got the time, skill, and desire, you should get involved in testing FreeEMS and helping it mature and grow too. on with the pics : my customised Puma board, running 4cyl COP using the built in XOR driver chip to control the ignitors. the back of it with the fuel/batt box clearly visible behind the hinged number plate front view nearly ready to go with my mate mops standing working on something four stock fe3 coils, four stock fe3 ignitors, chinese fpr, modified fuel rail, 550cc rx7 injectors (maxxed out for approx 385bench crank hp) rivetted intercooler plumbing with a pair of nissan skyline gtr blow off valves in a stock housing with 50mm inlet and twin 38mm outlets intake side of the engine bay custom plenum with 1uzfe 70mm throttle body from the lexus/toyota 4l 280hp v8 one of the biggest simota air filters you can get with 6" to 4" toilet plumbing to the turbo the inside of that plenum showing the totally smooth path that the air has to flow through to get into the engine where 3" end of downpipe meets 3" exhaust exhaust side from above with manifold, turbo, wastegate, downpipe and coolant plumbing all visible and from its prettiest angle hand crafted 4" to 3" downpipe with hand turned on lathe vband flange for turbo and flexi for the wastegate the nearly perfectly straight 3" exhaust with two straight through mufflers, also showing the 130 s/s m8 csk screws holding down the 17mm plywood deck where the battery lives with 4 fused 5ag outlets and one 100ampere circuit breaker with 50mmsq cable going to block and starter and 8ga going to ms and another to alternator and a speperate vref to alternator and a sperate fuse for lighting and the last one for the pumps. also 2 8ga local grounds to the ally panels. the rear ally panel from inside showing the two relays for the two fuel pumps, the brake,tail,reverse light relays, and the ground lift all rear lights off the cops are coming relay 044 910 raycar and surge tank. all happy to supply 400+hp of fuel, and peak of about 700-800 through the 3/8 line straight from the 044 to the rail. ex mani on the Persian rug in the lounge just after completion. just after painting holset just fits, mounted with begginings of beautiful hand made merger above. 36-1 crank trigger with bracket and sensor winged lidded sump for zero oil surge under extreme driving (i'm crazy incase you are wondering and pull a G daily everywhere) f2t flywheel with fe smaller ring gear and ligtened and smoothed and shrunk to fit the 240mm clutch in the small 225mm bell housing. about to go in. you can see the coolant plumbing. the periscope one got changed twice after that. type 3/r box visible in background 2 pack laquer paint job on diff housing looking sweet on a warm summers day. a messy summary of whats been done : piecemeal stock long block including : fe5a camshafts ground to fit vr6 valve springs intake retainers/collets on all valves f2t windage tray cut to fit... ...fe-dohc main bearing braces which have been ground to fit the above custom winged sump with top plate to prevent slosh in the very most effective way large oil cooler std on fe5a version pistons are 10:1 variety external to the long block are : custom thin walled equal length mild steel exhaust manifold made with mandrel bends a mig and a couple of laser cut flanges, it incorporates an external 44mm vband wastegate and t3 fitting for ease of downsizing in future if i should so choose, a hand made merge collector filed to perfection on the inside that brings the flow together so well that with the 44mm wastegate wide open a great deal i had 3.5psi by 7k rpm. one holset he351cw hy35 hy9 turbo from a 2006 dodge ram cummins powered diesel pickup truck modified with custom made matching vband flange for dump pipe, removed wastegate actuator, welded up wastegate hole with a steel plug shaped to the inside of the turbine housing for smoothness of flow welded in place and the bracket for the actuator cut off and ground smooth to just fit the engine bay at all, a modified cummins drain pipe that snakes around the compressor housing and engine mount and back to the sump at the full 22mm OD size. dumping to... one full straight through, and you know i mean straight, custom 3" exhaust with the biggest coby reso/tube muff at 18" and a cheapish oval muffler dumping just in front of the diff, initially fed by a 4"to 3" fred welded reducer and smoothly merged in wastegate reentry and ... innovate wideband O2 letting me know that its dead rich. one chinese 44mm vband wastegate with 15psi spring and welded valve lapped to a perfect seal. one "bagel" inlet manifold and plenum to smoothly guide the intake gasses to their firey death with short runners smoothed on the inside and tuned for high rpm power and flow, large plenum volume with throttle directed to allow air to enter all cylinders quite evenly one modified stock fuel rail bored an extra .3mm with blanked stock input and retained fuel pressure dampner and 3/8 inlet fitting and 5/16 outlet to the fpr and... 4 rx7 550cc injectors cleaned by some brakeclean and a heater with new orings and spacers and seals one chinese adjustable fuel pressure regulator and guage returning to tank along the stock tube offset slightly and passing to... the stock feed line that used to supply the carbed engine at 5/16 one brand new 3/8 feed line all the way from the fuel system at the rear one 70mm lexus 1uzfe 4.0l 280ps v8 throttlebody modifed to have no second throttle plate and no air leaks etc and fed by.... one r32 nissan skyline gtr intercooler with 3" inlet and outlet and 3" plumbing with silicone couplers and tbolt clamps and enough flow for more than 500hp mounted fwd of the radiator with short pipes and good airflow over it, cleaned to bare ally by many washings with thinners etc, and with all fins straightened on both front and back to maximise air flow through it one nissan gtr r32 bov housing and two stock bovs from same car attached in the wrong place immediately after the turbo instead of before the throttle with socks and cable ties for air cleaners blowing straight back up into the air filter which is a.... 6" inlet dual cone simota unit (one of the biggest they make) attached by a shortened and lightened and internally sanded pcv feed pipe in 4" ID all the way to the inducer of the turbo a hard oil line with banjo fitting on the turbo and rotating type on the block, with no restrictor and about 1/4" OD line brazed at the ends a customised crank pulley with siera cvh 36-1 wheel grafted on and a nice paint job to make timing light mark id easy a customised f2t flywheel machined down to accept the stock ring gear and go inside the small bellhousing and fitted with a modifed and balanced 1X00 pound pressure plate also machined down to squeeze into that bell with a heavy duty sprung organic LUK clutch disk inside custom coolant lines in 35mm OD steel tube with mandrel bends and quality hose bp 2 stage thermostat residing inside f2 flat thermo housing at the back of the head as it should be 53mm thick R33 jap made full alloy race radiator and two american curved blade fans on the front all supported by... early 90s top mounts from galants, and lowre mounts from same period legacy (same for intercooler) four short bosch ign leads and fours stock fe3 coils and four stock fe3 ignitors controlled by... one modified ms2 v3 unit with provision for leds on all main outputs and COP capability with external switch for bootloading code semi decent wiring setup including dedicated feed to ms from battery, shields on all inputs, dedicated feed to battery from alternator, extra heavy grounds (50mmsq) to block from battery, and same to starter and all other feeds from battery, vref line to alternator from battery itself, heavy ground to ms from head, dirty power feed line from main car system for such things as 02 heater feed etc. at the rear of the vehicle two bosch fuel pumps, one circa 400hp 910 sucking fuel from tank through a big marine filter/water seperator, and feeding a 2l s/s surge tank with 3/8 line, returning excess to the main tank through a 1/4 line to create some residual pressure, and one mother of all bosch pumps 044 sucking from that surge tank and pushing upto 800hp of fuel fwd through the 3/8 line mentioned earlier. battery relocated to behind the diff for weight issues and very short thick wires straight to those pumps from it. all wires from batt either fused or broken for safety and convenience. and the videos (most of which i have pulled at the moment due to potential legal action over my skyline) : http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p ... E67CCB2520

Hi, i posted this up a while back when i first signed up and due to a few things it ended up deleted. Lost motivation to post it again for while, but found it this morning. Hopefully its in the right place now I'll put the other two posts after this one as they were. here is the comments thread that should hopefully get tacked onto the end of this one after i repost the material so its all in one place out of the projects section //oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=11936 brb.

depends how hard you are going to run it. if you run it hard, it will not last like oem, and if you run oem turbo cars properly hard, and i mean properly, the turbos are only good for 100 - 200kkm anyway. maybe less. for track use, i'd say its a goer to have it setup correctly. i've got some TT plans in the works eventually, the small turbo will only do anything under 5krpm, so it will probably be left without water lines hooked up. under heavy use, it will be above that speed and a non issue.

with the main sump at the back you will never have any acceleration issues. most of my issues were under braking. as low as 50kph i had oil lights coming on. from 130 it was on from about 110 down to 0 in the skyline. not good. ute should show no such issues. i never had any issues in any fwd car though, which kinda proves that its only decel thats the real issue.

most of mazdas f series engine have them, and many other mazda engines too. turbo or not. just the size differs. the one i have is from my twincam na engine standard, and its bigger than the one found on the f2t turbo model (pictured) some skylines have the same style of cooler on their filter too. its good because it allows faster oil heat up too (water heats oil during warm up), and keeps oil and water temps closer together. oems arent silly buggers, there is a lot to be learned from the way they do things. they just might not have done it on your car like that

i would say 10 or less, i think mines about 5. RT, depends what you want ey, that will work sweet for swerving here and there, but if you throw it into a sweeper hard for a few seconds... those "little gaps" will let your oil out pretty quickly. you did say "not a track car" though, and you probably wont go too nuts with your precious project on normal roads. how much volume would you say is below that plate? if you can get the specs for the oil pump, you can calculate how long it will last at X revs with only that supply. thats why i added 2l of wings. when it goes any given direction, there is 0.5l above it to fall down and get swallowed by the pump. additional to the normal volume around the pickup on any given side. fred.