cletus

on a related note,

if a leaf was to develop an intermittent speedo or odometer fault, would it still function?

or does it need a speedo signal for all of the electrical magic to make car go

Got my mrs to buy abag of cotton ball things , cut a few in half and poke them in the ear holes, seems to work pretty well 

Spendy you say 

This is factory built, they are making 131 of them

$110k usd! 

did they check the brakes on rollers?

for some reason drum brakes and brake rollers dont go together, it seems to be a common issue on cars that stop perfectly fine, but fail on rollers

i had a guy go thru wof check before cert, the car had a welded diff in it and still had a "brake balance problem", ha

i wonder if its tyres or weight on each corner issues sometimes, one of my cars had multple goes at passing - shoes were fine, new wheel cyls, bled it a million times, ended up taking the guts out of the factory prop valve , nothing worked

what solved it in the end was me sitting in the back over the side that was low, and that fixed it

Oh yes

I have learned the hard way,  anything HD related equals spending a lot compared to any other motorcycle brand

Just because it's a caveman spec push rod 2 cylinder does not mean the prices of things that go with them are on the same level.

Id suggest if you are keen on one, find one you either like in standard trim, or one that already has mods you want to do. When I bought mine, there were a few others that were around 15-18k that I liked, that had mods already done, I didn't want to spend that much , but by the time mine is done I'd be up there anyway.

I really like it though, it's a load of fun. 

Yes I had to do that with mine, run in with just the outer spring, then fit the inner ones after

What you are talking about doing is all possible, and can be certed, @RXFORD has covered most issues,  I would add that you'd need to be careful of any arms fouling on the chassis, when you fit an irs in a car that wasn't designed for it, you need to run the suspension through its full range of travel to make sure things don't hit where they aren't meant to before the bump stops limit travel

The rear shock mounts will need strength added, a strut brace isn't enough on its own , it will need diagonal bracing as well but that's something I'd need to see in person to figure out the best plan

starting with a non modified subframe would be easier, as if you need to cut or mod a bit that's been strengthened that makes life harder

What is your main aim for doing this? Are you trying to get it really low? Going to do track stuff? There are options to sort out camber on the standard rear end that might make life easier if it's just going to be a street car

Yeah crank the adjustment up.

Or

Is there a multi rib pulley option for them? 

Like a factory 4/6pk type setup off a different version,  ie 5.0 falcon,  or a hiace that had that engine with those belts, or something similar that could easily be adapted 

2 hours ago, zep said:

Thanks Clint - I'll give him a call. Can I say you sent me?

No problem,  I texted him to make sure he was still doing it

This guy might be worth having a chat to, he's been doing it for a while, and I remember talking to him about automotive stuff, he was telling me the tricks he uses to avoid warping panels 

5 hours ago, ThePog said:

Maybe it is a FWD van with a 3500kg GVM?

Cut the back off and fab a chassis. Job done.

Some euro vans are like that, and available to buy as a cab/chassis deal for making camper vans with 

kind of funny, if you have a rhd converted US classic, its considered 'ruined', but its the opposite with rotaries

March 21

294207852239540768

GVM issues would likely be your downfall there as far as building something you could put some weight on, unless you want to build a feather or polystyrene transporting vehicle

So the old Ali engraved plates are still valid, if the car matches the description on the plate, mods are the same, then all good.

Any new certs after Feb 2021 I think it was? Will be the new EDP donut thing 

Any car with an Ali plate that gets re certed for anything other than wheels only, gets a new donut one when it's re certed 

A roll of itchy header wrap is pretty cheap so I got a roll of that before I read this thread again, probably should have bought some actual muffler packing

Also should have tested things more scientifically , I dunno if it's quieter or not 

Meh.

Also took the battery out and cleaned earths and power cables where they attach to improve starting, as sometimes it goes kerrrrclikclikclikclikKER KER KER POTATOPOTATOPOTATO 

and now that seems to have improved 

5 hours ago, Flauski said:

Alright you K11 aficionados, why does my 1996 K11 with 25,000km and very simple CG10DE:

1. Start cutting out at 1000km/h 

Probably the rev limiter in top gear

On 27/01/2025 at 15:44, cletus said:

 

Wrapped in bunnings steel wool, this takes 2 boxes @$4.90 each for future reference 

 will report back after a few kms for the packing to settle 

 

 

 

 

 

OK so the packing did settle, but where it settled to is likely the road between my house and the Waikato area

Turns out steel wool is not suitable as a packing for mufflers

Also once the packing disappeared it discolored the coating on the muffler slightly

I'll investigate a more suitable packing material 

The threads protruding thing comes from the CCM chapter 18

That says that a bolt must protrude past a lock nut by 2 threads

The reason for this is the first thread on a bolt is a bit smaller, so a nyloc or similar lock nut will not grip the threads correctly if it's flush.

Unfortunately some of the requirements in the book don't fit every situation,  and sometimes are misinterpreted or applied where they don't need to be

Personally I would not require 2 threads past the face of a threaded part, as long as there's enough thread engagement in the part itself 

Needs a hilux or similar ratty old truck cab adapted on to it haha