Testament

1 minute ago, AllTorque said:

They have a factory immobiliser. Key gets read in the ignition.

can you still hotwire something like that? or is it getting a code from the key to ecu through canbus for the ecu to turn on?

20 hours ago, peteretep said:

We get heaps of machinery Powdercoated at work, which has a really tough nice finish, but it is quite time consuming vs something like wet spraying. I saw some machinery those other day that had a really nice surface finish that was like wet spray but it was slightly textured and felt as if it would be a bunch tougher than your typical wet spray. Are there any painting types in between wet spray and powder coating? Google shows a whole bunch of gimmicky things so I can’t gauge what’s a real commercial solution and what’s not. This replaying to painting big 1 ton+ steel frames, to small 500g steel/aluminium parts

We usually use carboline paints or altex coatings on stuff at work when we need to ask for specific paints and have really good service/advice from their application people. 

TBH the last one I got some advice on I was very surprised, inside of an atmospheric flash tank, total ball of rust inside just painted it in hope to get it to last 4 more years/total band aid didnt have much else we could do at the time. opened it up last year (after 4 years in service) and 90+% of the paint was there. there had totally expected the steam and hot water to have just peeled it all off like it wasnt there.

On 30/05/2021 at 16:26, tortron said:

I think the world is over now, you have left the chuck key in the chuck - now all the trees have spontaneously caught satanic fire and the volcanoes are erupting while the moon falls from the sky

read the rules for whatever sanctioning body you are going to be running under 5 times then read them again.

there are many differences between manz/fia/nzdra/ihra/nhra/oranz  etc. etc. etc.

alot of the time you can actually build something compliant to several but you have to understand the rules. height of the aforementioned door bars,  placement of backstays, relationship of main hoop to driver etc. can all be subtly different.

On 16/05/2021 at 10:12, Nominal said:

A bit sad that I don't really have space for this monster

Im quite certain you have room, theres always room for a deal

adaptors dont straight up make the reading wrong, but certainly add to potential for other forces to come into play than just twisting. This can certainly cause incorrect/less actual torque to the fastener. a bit like installing dry vs various types of lubes

reality is many cases you have to use extensions etc to reach certain fasteners, just have try to do your best to only apply torque and minimise out of plane/bending forces.

We have a new electric MG wagon thing at work now, actually goes hard. interior definitely is a bit try hard fancy spec lots of leather/fake leather? and too shiny plastics. so far it seems to work as an appliance the same as the konas and leafs.

/ling

+1 durepox. I have stuff I got from my uncles estate, must be over 20years old and its still good. well good enough to stick to things at least.

@Roman wouldnt you want a minimum speed, rather than off completely at low/no load?  unless thermosiphon morris minor stuff goes on?

https://www.instagram.com/p/COoy8WLskO7/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

30 minutes ago, KKtrips said:

Providin you use the correct fuel line, have no connections inside the passenger compartment and it must use bulkhead fittings at each end, it should be OK. But it must also be able to be inspected, so covered by carpet is a no go.

 

so implying more of an allowance for race/rally cars with stripped interiors

22 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

Seems that these days amayama doesn't take your money until they have confirmed stock.

 

I'd imagine it is hard to keep track of parts in warehouses spread across probably 50 countries, especially when the car was made before the internet

dunno, rock auto do it pretty well

but yeah everyone else fucks it up

I just put alloy spool of wire+ matching size tip in normal mig welder+handpiece. has rolls with different knurl for alloy I think/maybe/cant remember. Plus pure argon for shielding. It works acceptably but its suited more for thicker/structual type stuff because you end up with not enough heat to start with, or enough to start with but it gets too hot quickly. so difficult to make a nice job of anything that is only a short weld. Also you are relying on the arc to blast the oxisided layer off, which with mig means wire going so this also is a factor in shitty starts to welds unless you can run higher amps etc. (i.e. thicker materials)

The other tip with using it in a regular mig is to keep the torch lead as straight as possible.

I never had any issues with brids nests etc. just the aforementioned limitations of the setup

I don't know what I'm doing/rookie Dave/this thread showed me how 2pac and Ive always put a little thinners in, just to get consistency right the durepox is too thick with nothing added. Not as much as if I was spraying it, just a little splash.

But yeah, different paint, and I don't know what I'm doing with this stuff.

Everyone ever says 4l60 goes in the bin if it's more than a standard motor. Just know you will be blowing it up and putting something else in, and if your ok with that well then it's your choice. If it was me I'd put my time and money into something else as you can't reuse clutch/convertor etc in Anything else after it's grenaded.

Weird, did you use any thinners? Mayber the hardener has lost its mojo

Only ever used durepox and often get the opposite issue of having to work real fast/brush turning to wood by the end of the job

/Ling

yeah g size

just never ever forget to turn off the valve overnight

309/308 stick, for welding together mysteries

If the port shape/size is good it probably doesn't make it materially worse, so if some engine builder is all about it and builds everything else good you could easily have a positive bias result bias. i.e. it would have been a great motor without but you didnt test that.

pretty sure the next secret will be to paint the ports yellow because thats the fastest colour.

I almost posted the question there, but didnt want to sully the purity with tootooed with alfa 156 d2 supertourer port

1. most of them are resuseable - the issue is disassembly without damage - a heat gun can help here rather than prying too hard and risking gouging sealing surfaces

2. if the hose ID/OD are right for the fitting it should be ok  but there is some potential for issues, so its up to you how confident you are and how critical the hose/connection is. The short answer is its not recommended by the manufacturers

3. yes, but see 2.  as it depends if the fitting is designed to accept both types of hose/both hoses have the same ID/OD dimensions. Ideally better to have the correct end fittings for each hose going to a threaded connection in between

4. there are lots of local sellers  NZKW, STA, scarles, cardwells, proparts, etc. etc. etc. the list goes on google is your friend

8 hours ago, locost_bryan said:

Race car paint has "orange peel" finish for the same reason, supposed to improve flow by disturbing the layer of air that "clings" to the surface.

Race car paint is orange peel because fast/cheap paint job

Golf ball inlet port?
Yeah I dunno, anyone seen/heard of this? I'm thinking that's quite different a golf ball spins/rotates and does a higher speed for a while at least. Cool points for aesthetics though.

how does the seat of the pants difference feel in the lower RPM driving round? the tvis intake does make 5?kw more in the low end which doesnt sound like much but is quite a bit when its only making 40kw total at those engine speeds. I'm guessing its not an issue because you dont drive a 4age anything like a truck?

so governing restriction is the intake valve opening/curtain area rather than the ports smallest cross section?

more cam lift or bigger valves needed to max out port flow?