kpr
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Posts posted by kpr
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Done. Now a @Roman problem haha
I'll quietly leave the room now. can sense the growing anger, due to the lack of graphs
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Yeah back when you could buy a kp starlet with 4age and t50 for 1500 bucks haha
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So, I'm onto version 2 of the vvti setup. main difference is the solenoid setup. the original setup I had the solenoid remote mounted. as was easier to do it that way and to confirm would all work.
but ocd couldn't handle all the lines. more chances of leaks and stuff breaking. It had 4 lines. Pressure feed from engine, drain back to sump and 2 for advance/retard
New setup eliminates the advance/retard lines. So just the 1 pressure line (feed from engine) and drain line to sump. yeah im still using the dipstick tube for the drain, ha.Solenoid now mounts in the block right by pulley and bolts to the other part. so all the advance retard ports and wizardry happens inside the ali blocks.
Doesn't look too out of place. have done a small amount of run time with it. All looking good so far.
Also moved the cam sensor. before it was hidden in the spark plug valley. but getting the clearance right was a pain, since the covers can move around side to side on the studs
Now its on the top at back of cover.
I had a little accident with the bran new genuine timing belt, so had to get this blue thing to get me going again.
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going by the pic of your exhaust, you should be able to still fit a reso after that abortion of pipes ^
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yep
runners made and welded. that was the easy bit, about 3 hours work. there is over a day just in the collector.
just gotta weld runners to flange and stick the collector on and hope they fit haha
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It depends what you are calling the "exhaust" There is plenty to be gained getting the sizing right after the merge.
Lots of people hit me with "such and such motorbike or race car doesn't run an exhaust that big" In a motorbikes case, just happens the length of bike is about the right place to end exhaust. same deal with race car. either the car ends or not a full length system.Banging a 3" pipe on right where all 4 pipes join together will probably loose power yes. but going big at the right place onward, is the way to go.
I'll place money that most of the gains roman will see, is in the midrange along with a bit of peak power
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Yeah, flows more. but kinda means your exhaust is too small if makes more power.
After the end of that pipe, idea is to simulate no exhaust. biggest straight through glass pack can fit straight after it. the rest of exhaust just needs to make it quieter, while adding little exhaust pressure as possible
So yeah echo with 3" exhaust-
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Will work as is, but will be extremely loud haha.
lt will also work pretty much the same, with the correct exhaust/ mufflers after it
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3 hours ago, Roman said:
My solution to the problem, and possibly all problems, is simply to keep revving it higher.
Can't argue with that
In other news, can we fire up that go fund me page again, roman gonna need a longer car
kinda silly seeing it all out in a straight line like that. the length is roughly same as what i run on 4age
still waiting on the straight pipe to show up. gone about far as can go now. collector and cone section 100% done
I'll leave the last bit off. as really winging it for fitment now.
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If could harness @Roman intake mods. In a perfect world the same 18psi would be about 316hp or 27hp more. not really apples to apples / dyno to dyno. but maybe a better comparison than most, considering both have a cork in the exhuast
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Classic courier gag. only deliver half the stuff. But got collector tacked together
Idea behind the fancy collector is try cut down some of the big open area over a standard merge collector. Its still there but over a shorter distance. Also transitions nicely back into diverging cone
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looks pretty decent, looking at that dyno graph. looks like its making full boost by 4500 going by torque curve. 200hp by 5000rpm.
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With turbo tech these days, Its pretty easy to use any engine you feel like. The limitation is just engine strength. from there onwards just a money pit of how strong can build the engine.
Old mate you speak of has some good videos of explaining stuff. but end of the day its just stuff hes read or watched and put in an easier to digest format for the masses. he has managed to make a 4age make less power than stock though.
If applied some of the stuff roman has done na, to a turbo setup would make stacks of power. some of it can't be transfered over, but a lot can. but yeh would just end in nuking engines till point of $$$$ billet blocks etc
have been asked to do na stuff on 7a/4afe heads quite a lot. but is kinda pointless without any aftermarket support for cams. can only go so far with little stock cams
dont get me wrong im obviously all for making crappy or different engines make power. but downgrading the engine you already have to try make power doesn't make a lot of sense/spam
Pipes have been ordered for header construction-
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Thats a stitch up. you think they would enable the fuel cut at bit lower rpm based on speed or something
my 20v junker wagon consistently does mid 6's/100 now. driving normally with the odd nang here and there.
Messed around with the tune a bit on dyno watching torque numbers. It wanted a little more timing at cruise in places, around 45degrees. and smashed quite a lot more in at low load and revs. like what you'd use putting around in a 50k area. tidied up the afr a bit, and set it to about 15.2. along with some tweaks to overrun fuel cut to kick in sooner and down to lower rpm.
previously it did low 7's. fucked stock ecu setup did high 9's. 6.5L/100 seems pretty decent for a shitty old 20v wagon-
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^ plus logistics
So yesterday.. Cool someone some sent me a parcel.
hmm yeh nar, one step above receiving 20v parts
So to keep everyone in the science loop, i'll fill in the header construction part
Stock are 32mm od diameter
The aftermarket ones are 35mm odSeems to me the 35mm od would be a good size for the power chasing. Idea was to extend one set or the other rather than starting from scratch. because budget
But dilemma was available tube size. can get 32mm od, same as stock. next size up is 38mm od. no 35mm. probably something in between if went to mild steel., but oddly enough can get stainless cheaperIn meantime i made this amazing jig that closely replicates a echo floor pan and exhaust system. from potatoe 2 pictures @Roman sent me
Back to sizing issue. after changing my mind 12 times. decided to chop up the aftermarket ones and go for a stepped setup.
Chopping the collector off and running 38mm tubes from there onwards. 35/38. Because we all want to see that 10,000rpm 2nz anyway
for reference 38mm od is what i use on my 4age headers.Need to order some stuff, but had a few leftovers hanging about for a bit of a mock up. looks like should work out all good.
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Not sure how to explain the science behind it. but If mess around with sizes and cone angles etc can grab power in different places. the more aggressive the angle is seems give more bottom end. can do some massive megaphone setup. but fitment is an issue in most cases. the double cone setup ive been using on my stuff seems to be a good compromise. The "choke" section, basically want to go small as possible without restricting power. then cone out.
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send me some stock ones and some kinda way of knowing what space got to work with. will see if can knock something up for you. I'll take over the roman dave go fund me OS donations to pay for materials haha. Whats the od of the tube?
Yeah that part is pretty sensitive, and seems like another indication anti revision chambers are bs. Almost looks like that pipe in pic directly after the merge has a choke section then a cone out. well a peasant version of that setup.
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Yeah youtube money ain't nothing. unless your pulling 200k+ views per video
@Roman how much stuff is in the way / how much of a straight run is there after that collector ? maybe can slice the collector off and extend them?
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impressive so little damage to head. keen to see how the 1.3 goes
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3d printed pistons
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can you do some extra janky stuff to the pistons, to lighten them. take a little stress off the rods
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42 minutes ago, Roman said:
Did someone say graph?
No?
Too bad
Yeah would be a 1300cc rev monster.
A 1NZFE has a mean piston speed of 25.4 meters per second at 9000rpm.
A 2NZ at 25.4 meters per second would be revving to 10,350rpm, and the mega long rod motor would be able to deal with it a little better.
Doesnt mean its possible to rev a 2NZ that high without other issues though. But it would certainly be glorious! haha2.06 is up there! assuming the 1.3 will want to make power at higher rpm, with all your top end on it. i see more flying rods in your future
Also being picky, but the 4a/7a combo is 1.78. no one likes an inaccurate graph
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Would be amazing for a big rev engine. but yeah custom rods wouldn't be very budget friendly. @Roman says the rod ratio on these engines aren't bad to start with. so a 1300 crank in the 1500 block would be some motorbike kinda rod ratio
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+1 for jamming the 1300 back in for now.
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Romans 2005 Toyota Echo
in Other Projects
Posted
wait till it snaps in half haha. As you said some kinda brace from bottom of engine will be good idea. Probably back to where the new pipes join on if possible