kpr

Its actually made it off the dyno and onto the road.  amazing

I stole @Roman clutch sensor idea.   spans 0-5v over clutch range.  so can pick engagement point in ecu software, rather than mucking around trying trying to adjust a switch to right spot.

So yeah set up launch control.  On my shitty old concrete tyres i use on the dyno,would only take 2200rpm launch. then would cut loose again a 5k. 
I set up an ignition retard map, based on time after the lauch control switched off, so will pull timing and come on power less aggressive in 1st gear. then back to full timing by the time hit 2nd, which worked ok but pretty weak sauce acceleration>

Found some slightly softer springs and  did some shock adjustments which helped a little bit. but still ended it tyre fire

Before swapping to some slightly better condition 195/45 14's.    thought would try some other junk got hanging around

Enter the 185/55 15  linglings

first attempt = tyre fire.   but after zinging the crust off them and running them  at 15psi.   got it to hook up at 3800rpm and able to get rid of the timing retard map.    aint no drag car but seems to take off fairly decent for what it is

Had bit of a setback with making the new vvti parts for this engine.  So have shelved it for a bit, as wanting to get this thing to the os drags. 

soo put the big cams back in.  Tried the big toda 320deg in the intake and the 318deg kelford in the exhaust. it didn't like. no more peak, just lost everywhere else. almost zero usable cam timing adjustment, due to piston to valve clearance. only did a few pulls then swapped the HVC 318/304 set back in.  

Its real sensitive to small changes with 318/304, both cam timing and intake lengths.
Tired a bunch of different intake lengths and cam timing, to attempt to put a peak on the top of the graph, rather than it flat lining.  usually can shuffle the intake tuning to  where it wants to make peak power, so will make even more.  Didn't really want to have it, would result in a dip just before it flat lined or make it fall off earlier.  Almost like its running out of airflow.  but the Atlantic engine does the same thing.  maybe long rpd bottom end will help.
Ended up with intake length only 10mm shorter than what i normally run.

Little bit of a compromise here and there but overall happy with the numbers and shape of graph.  I can pull the dip out at 5500rpm to a point, advancing the inlet, but it loses power up top and piston to valve is pretty spicy.   around the 160kw mark for 1500rpm is pretty good. 

was spitting out over 160kw constantly  on  "normal day"   (corrected and uncorrected numbers the same)   with air filter setup on.

vs stockish  engine for a laugh.  rpm scale bit off

race car noises

Just had something super cool on the dyno,  well if your a 4age foamer at least

Yep an actual formula atlantic 4age. in a formula atlantic car where it should be.    not just some guy with atlantic covers bolted to a stock bluetop
engine originally built by and made 254hp (189kw) on loynings usa engine dyno.   The car even had the original efi setup and ecu from late 80's ! 

uncorrected numbers again;   170kw.   so showing about 10-11% drive line loss, compared to engine dyno numbers.  seems about right. 

This is it overlayed onto the kp's dyno graph,  with the HVC cams, same run as the green  in previous post.   only 4-5kw off the peak and 20kw more at 5k,  not bad!

Tried shortening the intake a touch.  20mm to be exact,  it did some stuff and made a little more peak power as expected. It also liked about  5degrees intake advance without losing peak power, which bumped up the midrange a bit.
probably would make a little bit more peak if made some other changes. but would start hurting the low end / midrange even more.  so im calling it here for the dick swinging number.  166kw uncorrected.

green is after the runner length and cam timing change

I actually took it off the dyno and took it for a spin down the road after this. feels like a weapon in the top end and actually changes gears now!

Have also been testing a few cam combo's to run with vvti.   as the 318 degree HVC intake cam is a little big to be swinging around, due to piston to valve clearance. and the fact that it only works in a smallish window. with duration being so long.  

green line as above with the hvc cams
red is running the new smaller cam combo through a few cam timing settings, to simulate what vvti will do.  
only down 3kw up top and nicely fills the hole at 4500. along with a bit through the midrange and still holding power till  almost 10k.  seems like the winner to me.

Put some 193hvc kelfold cams in it.  318/304 deg  11mm/10.1mm  lift.      bit of a sack down low and not going to work with my plan.  but good to see theres a bit left in it!
i may have a little play with intake runner lengths to push the tuning up to 9k. see what it will do, before move onto next cam combo

Thats 161.9kw if you cant see it..

Run it up on dyno today,   changes gears revving to 9700pm  so looks like gearbox issue is fixed

The new old engine has gained a touch of power (different headers).   was laying down 152kw pretty consistently when tuning and playing with cam timing.    was  doing the runs at 90degs oil temp so could keep things consistent when setting cam timing.   Then done a run with bit more heat in the oil, as they spit out a bit more power.    155kw with 100c  oil  

green line is good engine.   blue is the turd with vvti.      red is a kinda stock engine with my good headers and exhaust.

I ran though a few cam timing settings, to see what it would do with vvti   (the above graph is done at 5deg inlet advance)       Holding 150kw+ for 2000rpm  will be amazing

video of same thing

Good engine back in and running,  think it has a little intake leak.  but other than that all seems well so far, after sitting almost 2 years. 

Have only pushed it back onto dyno rollers and ran it through the gears.  which seems good so far also.   clutch feels pretty much the same, nana as. can take off in 3rd on dyno.

Next need to set the cam timing (was using cam gears on turd, soo all screwed up)   on dyno and probably do a little tuning.    I haven't had current headers on this engine. they were good for a touch more power over the other ones on the turd.  unsure what they will do on this engine.

Then can see if the gearbox wants to play the game.

New clutch plate showed up.   actually fits. feels decent amount  lighter, so should help the cause.   Will have to go to a whole new flywheel and clutch combo to trim anymore weight out here

Turd engine  is out

Would have liked to run the vvti setup for awhile longer on this engine to prove reliability.   But gearbox issues and time to keep things moving

Gearbox issues being; it wont change gears  at high rpm.  which is rather annoying when engine pulls 10k,  but can only rev it to 7 if want to grab another gear.

Decided to throw some new parts in the t50 to attempt to make it better.

Some parts are no longer available.  but managed to get syncro's and selector sleeves and a few bearings. 

One of the parts no longer available is this bit, the dogs that sit on side of the gear.   also happens to be pretty tired on most gears.  I managed to pinch one out of my pile of parts, that was slightly better for 3rd gear.   The other ones from my parts box (t40) were different design and were welded to the gears. so no go

Angle grinder to the rescue.   No idea how well its going to work,  and probably should have set it up in lathe so angles were bang on.  but cant be any worse than being blended like above.   gave both 2nd and 4th bit of a zing like this.   

All back together.   much easier to work on than a w box

Also got one of these on the way.  kinda winging it and hoping it will fit with stock style flywheel and pressure plate.  as its from a orc clutch/flywheel combo.
The sprung center in the current one seems fairly heavy.  so this plate should cut down a bit of weight syncros have to deal with