kpr

^ exo cage not my thing. ' Prerunner stye is sweet. but would start with a whole new truck if doing something like that. redesign the whole rear, trailing arm rear suspension etc... Made everything fit under the tray on mine so it still looks semi farmer spec

probably should. probably wont though

Altered jump a bit. Was a bit of a flat spot in the transition, so dug that out making the transition bit further back an more mellow. was little bit of a lump near top of jump so chopped that out. ended up pushing plie of dirt to the top. used that to add a bit extra length, so bit more time for the suspension to sort its shit out . its pissing down now. so no test runs for awhile.

Some more technique would probably help too yeh. Maybe more power so it trys to flip over backwards

I started to blip the throttle and this works to a point. I think with more hang time would have more time for adjustment. My brother suggested i try the jump in 2wd, but think it will just wheelspin too much. Yeah i think the suspension could do with some more tweaks. the rear is really hard to get right. but looks like i can go half way between the settings that sucked from being too slow and whats in there now. the settings that sucked probably would work for jumps but no good for everything else, so its a bit of a compromise. I have to pull the shocks apart and change shims to change the dampening. not just click of a dial . unless someone wants to sponsor me some tipple bypass shocks. I slow mo'd the run up vid and doesn't look like its doing anything too extreme. front heavy still main issue im thinking

Few days late on this one, but going back to the overlap thing, with air going straight through the engine. I thought this may have been the case when i was road tuning my engine. 300deg ish cams, running approx 5mm of lift on the inlet cam and 3mm lift on exhaust at TDC. So you can basically look straight through the engine at TDC. I was tuning with a peasants version of @Roman's MAF tuning; A tps (alpha n) tune. So the throttle plate is metering the air. The ecu doesn't have any compensation like a map tune. Which will add fuel as manifold pressure increases. well other than barro correction . So at the same throttle opening if any more air goes into the engine it will result in a leaner afr. Which in turn will need X percent more fuel, which = x percent more power. So getting to the point of adjusting cam timing. going from a lowish overlap setup then advancing the inlet cam, which increases overlap. AFR would go lean through most of the midrange and little richer right up top. cool did i just gain power or loosing part of the charge out the exhaust? same deal with exhaust cam. till ending up with settings far more aggressive overlap wise than what the cam manufacture recommended. Then confirmed on the dyno that those cam settings were actually gaining power. So seems the theory that any big amount of air going straight through the engine, isn't going to happen unless in an extreme case

More rebound dampening i assume you mean, so the rear drops out slower. I think it is a touch fast yeah. from memory last time i slowed it down, was too much and it sucked. will have to look and see what shims i got in there

Made jump even bigger. As usual got bit of nose dive issue, can possibly alter jump to make it better. but being front heavy doesn't help. Thinking may strap a wheel or 2 on the very back and maybe put some gas in it.. then it may fly a bit flatter. after all the jumps in the below vid, still got 20mm left in the left hand front hydro bump and about double that on front right, as tends to want to land on that corner for some reason. if can get it to land flat and let the rear do some of the work, will be walk in the park and should be able to hit it with some more speed Jumps are fun, but kinda scary

Well, I'm still not sure if this was a really good idea, or a really bad idea.

what are your dwell times set at? should be set for coils rather than igniter. also its fairly easy to fry those mitsu ignitors.

So managed to get this thing fixed. everything measured up good so chucked it together New crank and bearings special sauce 10 mins of me doing up bolts if you bored:

gummon, as i recall the GC lasted 1 day. That BMW though, German engineering at its finest

Looks like i should be able to fix engine back to pretty much 100%, lockdown spec The bad; it has spun 2 big end bearings, shells in pic below were worst. All the rest of the bearings in the engine look pretty tired as well. Crank isn't too bad, but would need a grind to be usable. plus seems it has already be ground in the past, so in the bin it goes. Oil pump hasn't let go or anything but some bearing material has gone through it, bin as well. from there onwards everything looks clean, oil filter has done its job Good news is I have a bran new crank and oil pump. Both are for another project Ive been collecting parts for. Means that goes back down the list, but rather have this thing running. Rods are all good. some very light marks on one of them, shouldn't be an issue. pistons and bores look perfect, although i haven't taken pistons out as may not be able to get hold of a ring compressor. Have managed to sort some new main and rod bearings, should be here early next week. Have also done the oil restrictor mod, to the oil gallery that feeds the head. keep more oil in the sump at high rpm Tl;dr : putting this junk back together with new crank, oil pump & bearings.

bit overkill for stock engine. but cant hurt to future proof. big cams you want zero back pressure after tuned length extractors & collector. same deal post turbo if going that way

More i think about it. probably should pull engines down for an inspection every now and then. thats 8 years of near 9000rpm at double factory power, shits probably gonna wear out quicker. not like its had the easy life Just a valve yeah. but different shape valve. turbosmart is a flat valve, Tial is a curved valve. other than that dunno, some kinda wizardry i guess.

So.... I tried to get an intercooler. but no go with lockdown. so brought a wastegate instead. In the meantime i made a video Then said wastgate showed up. Why? because loud noises. used to sound amazing with the old 2 bolt tial. but when i swapped to the turbosmart chasing boost creep it sounded a bit tame. turns out the Tial v band gate has the same inlet flange. and same valve style as the 2 bolts. just needed to weld on new outlet flange, easy. Chucked it on dyno to check boost. first run, sounds amazing again. making all the midrange power because wrong spring selection, 17psi but thats no drama tune is safe up there, carry on... then nunga nunga .. Caught covid 3s done the same as starlet run a big end, just number 2 instead of 3. turns out this engine is 8 years old. seen some abuse in my 85 before it made it into the hilux. Havent come up with a plan yet. probably pull engine tomorrow and inspect rest

yep will be all good

Also jealous of these south island hills, can keep your water and rocks though

Suspension brace didn't fit with new plenum. probably could have made the plenum 15mm shorter and it would have. but good excuse to make lightweight version brace. Almost ready for test run to the wall of shame for the old one

Someone on here had similar issue with ecu staying powered up. Think we figured out it was the way the relays and ecu power were wired.

Afr wise, 14 - 14.5:1 will be hottest. going either way will be cooler. but running the hottest afr shouldn't put enough extra demand on cooling system , unless borderline already.

Them gains when the blades disintegrate

Any suggestions where to get a decent tube and fin intercooler or just a core?

So, i was wrong.. it wasn't the intake that was restricting it on high boost. Still starts to brick wall around 200kw Red line is the new setup, Blue dual setup Not following what it does on low boost: Decided to test the pressure drop across the crappy china intercooler. I'm not fancy enough to have 2 map sensors. so these are back to back runs. Red run is measured pre intercooler. Blue post 1.5psi maybe doesn't sound so bad if were running 30psi. but at this boost, its 10% pressure loss. The way it gets worse as power and rpm increase suggests its junk also. was almost at the top of my list to replace anyway

From memory around 40mm to the roof, from the face of bellmouth. There was quite a bit of room from the edge of bellmouth to the plenum wall . New one air can basically go straight down the runner rather than all the air having to come over the edge of the bellmouth