Roman

Reminds me of that story where one of the F1 teams (or whatever) came up with a new front wing or front duct or something that made them go faster. Every time the car came into the pits, the team would throw covers over the rear of the car as a distraction So everyone kept trying to peek under there and figure out what was different. But no one looked at the front Excuse me if this is an absolutely awful paraphrasing

In terms of fuel atomization, if you've tried cold start tuning then you'll know that the port shape or surface doesnt stop fuel from sticking to the port. When the motor is hot. You spray the fuel onto a hot port and hot valves while they are closed, then the heat vaporizes it back off the walls and you get a good air/fuel mix. When the motor (port) is cold, you have to add a bunch of extra fuel because so much of it pools to the walls and doesnt remix. If the boundary layer could affect this, then every single manufacturer would have dimpled ports just for sake of cold start emissions. Because cold start is a huge contributor to bad emissions. (well, prior to direct injection at least I guess) When you've got carbs mounted really far from the port, then rough surface probably helps more to keep fuel off the walls, but what would help even more is just keeping the whole thing hot. Also people always talk about airspeed like it's fixed. At 1000rpm you've got 1/10th of the airspeed of 10,000rpm. At a cold idle you've got no airspeed (so port shape means fuck all) and no heat in the port and it's a fueling disaster regardless of what else is going on. I guess point being that port shape changes dont affect all load and rpm ranges equally, and the times where you'd want to best increase fuel mixing is when dimples do nothing

I think the dimpled thing is bullshit, because the point of golfball dimples it is to reduce the flow seperation at the rear of the ball as the air flows around it. So less drag. The only place on a port that I think you could get anything similar would be on the short side radius of a particularly gross port. Or if you are reducing the boundary layer, then you're increasing the effective area of the port. So it would make a big port worse, but an undersized port potentially flow a smidge better. But I'm sure I remember reading stuff about it being useless essentially. Most of what I'm learning from @kprs fine work at Garage4AGE is how important seeming things do fuck all, and seemingly arbitrary things make a big difference!

Ahh good point! I wonder if regular 1nz ones will fit.

Progress! Finally got my motor home, and have had a little bit of time to muck around with it. Still amazing how clean and new everything is. I decided the best first thing to do, would be swap the sump over. So I did that, with all of the necessary patience. Cleaned everything, piped out some silicone stuff, let the goo set, then flipped it back over and started on the valve train. I got the valves, old springs, and retainers out no problem. Trying to fit the new ones in, not so easy! Springs are much stiffer, and these retainer keepers are fucking infuriating! So tiny and dont want to sit in the right place. With one of my ham fisted efforts, I ended up dropping one of the keepers down an oil gallery... into the bloody sump. The half of the sump of course that means I have to pull the whole bloody thing off again. So pulled that back off, and after some various attempts I decided there's not really any way to do this short of taking the head off. So pulled the head off, and holy hecka the combustion chamber and pistons were absolutely coated in nasty nasty EGR shit! So gross. And this is only a 30,000km motor, they must look fucked by the time they get some big km on them. As these pistons are coated (apparently?) I decided to not use anything more volatile or abrasive than petrol and a toothbrush, and a toothpick to get some shit out of the tight parts. Came up good enough. Hopefully running it for a while without EGR will clean everything up a bit over time too. The combustion chamber looked just as gross. People say these motors gum up the piston rings, I can see why. Also, I had a laugh at this. On the left, we have a beams 3SGE flywheel bolt, for an 8 bolt crank. On the right, a 1NZ flyhweel bolt for a 6 bolt crank. Hopefully I wont have a 9k rpm flywheel come buzz saw through my brain

What's interesting is that people say 7A has a sluggy rpm band because of a long stroke, but that cant be it. 7AGE which always seems to make dunga power for some reason: 81 mm bore × 85.5 stroke 2ZZ for 1800cc as well, makes 190hp standard 82 mm bore × 85 mm stroke

My new work car arrived, and it's by far the nicest car I've ever "owned". Some fun gimmicks like paddle shift, cruise control, decent power etc etc its a turbo deeez that goes hard 4 wot it iz It doesnt even rattle or anything. Amazing. Really nice on long work trips, which I do a lot of. However obviously the best part of all this, and why it's in this post. Is that this now means my Echo has been released from its daily driving obligations, so I can start on drivetrain swap soon. Time for a full blown big block fuck around! I've still got the engine in storage up at my Dads, but have collected most of the necessary other bits. Also because I am a financially reckless man-child I have also ordered some JUN cams, fuck you bank account

Its amazing for what a drastic change has been made, how it makes almost zero difference!

Options I've looked at are 350Z APS or the RX8 entire pedal. The RX8 pedal looked easier to mount up, but then the problem is that the sensor is built into the whole thing. So you cant just swap a sensor over if it fails. So for that reason I'd prefer the likes of 350Z as can keep a spare and swap it over easier.

The bane of my existence with a lowered 4 link setup on a standard Toyota one. Is that the 4 links at standard height are meant to slope down towards the diff. Because when they do it works like this Then when you are hard on the brakes, the opposite happens. (which is also good) The angle of the bars pulls the rear of the body back down, so works as anti dive of sorts. However when you lower it enough that the bars are beyond parallel with the ground, so they now slope up towards the diff. When you launch hard off the line, it tries to pull the body of the car down instead, which because of intertia saying fuck you means it lifts the wheel up instead. So grip completely sucks. Then under braking, it jacks the rear of your car sky high because the pulling force tries to lift the body. I would set 4 link angles so that you're a fair margin away from having bars parallel with the ground at its static angle

That looks awesome! Well done.

While the exchange rate is good I'm halfway tempted to chuck some JUN cams in it too... As it's a bitch to change them over later while the motor is in the car. But I'm also quite curious to see how well it will go just with factory 1NZ cams and ITB and the high comp. Definitely cams at some stage though. As I can buy a pair for cheaper than just one for 3S

Boring update, which greatly contrasts to this very exciting car The model after my shape (NCP91) has a 1NZ motor that has roller rockers in the head. So this means they have way less lift on the cam because its multiplied by the rocker ratio. So it looks like they only have something like 4-5mm lift vs 9mm for the normal head cams. So what might be an interesting is put the low lift long duration prius cam from the non rocker engine (about 270deg duration, approx 4mm lift) into the rocker motor. Might be a super easy way to get some sweet duration and lift for cheap on the NCP91 Which should also have reflashable factory ECU. So might be quite easy to do some doorts in that shape car. But while thinking about all this, people said that the rocker head only comes on the Japanese new engines. And I realized the prius motor swap I'd seen, was someone from America. So thought I'd better check and make sure I didnt have the rockers. I didnt, phew. But I was blown away at how clean this thing is under there! I guess its a 50,000km engine on a hybrid where the motor only runs part of the time... so the real run time kms will be a little lower. Hopefully it doesnt have ring sealing issues like some of them did. As they have very low tension rings for less friction. Might be solvable by fitting a vacuum pump on the crank case so there's a higher pressure differential on top and bottom of the piston. Yet again, prius is basically a pure bred race motor, already setup with piston rings for dry sump. haha I have ordered a valve spring and titanium retainers kit for it. This cost more than the whole motor did, but will be worth it to see if I can stretch it to 8k rpm haha. Also, this motor has the exhaust manifold at the back of the head, and then the exhaust runs backwards obviously. So I've been revisiting the idea of trying to use cad to design an equal-ish length manifold thats made from as few parts as possible. If I could get away with having the pipes run perpendicular to the flange, backwards, I'd only need 2 90 deg bends per runner and they would be within about 50mm length from longest to shortest. Also noteworthy that this design has each runner sitting flat on its own 2d plane, so each runner could lay perfectly flat on a table. So you could print an A3 drawing of the outline and then cut the bits to shape and tack it together without any fiddly indexing of pipe angles etc. Trying to get them a bit more equal (within about 20mm) need some longer bends for the center two, but still only two bends per pipe. Would just need to be cut from 180 deg bends not 90s. So might be a good first project for an exhaust manifold when I learn how to weld one day. Or otherwise easy to just cut all the parts and have someone else weld it up. Not sure how to make an economical/easy collector though but will scratch my head a bit more and try figure something out.

Okay thanks. Yeah definitely make a U shaped piece and some gussets or whatever... would be one hell of a thing to have snap off haha.

Hi, In the case of coilover suspension like this, where there's a height adjustable section at the bottom (which means the shock assembly can be completely removed from the part that mounts to the hub) Would it be okay to cut off those mounting points for the hub, and put some new ones on to fit a different hub bolt spacing/angle? I'd assume it would need tig and crack test.

I think the reason the regular traction control setup uses ignition and fuel cut %, is because it can respond instantly. Using something like boost control or e-throttle and there's latency involved and so weird shit can happen. Plus with the normal traction control you can setup a slip limit, your tyre can put down its best grip while it's slipping at say 10% faster speed than non driven wheels. I think the best way to set things like e-throttle angles and boost control, is to control the torque output proactively rather than reactively, then use reactive measures like ign cut to trim it from there. So develop a table that represents how much power the motor is allowed under different conditions. I've had some ideas about speed based boost control though, basically you'd build a standardized table that represents how much horsepower the car can put down without wheel slip under "standard conditions" Horsepower has a fairly basic relationship against mass air flow so you could have an allowed mass air flow number at a given speed. So for example to output the same torque amount to the wheels you'd need twice as much HP/air at 200kph than 100kph. Then the load axis could be a trim pot or some maths channel automagic that perhaps looks at ignition cut % and trims the table up or down if you're wheel spinning too much or not enough. Then boost control would work by having an "air per cyl estimated" target for a given speed and trim value. So "theoretically" if you started wheel spinning at 80kph you could adjust your trim pot and it would rescale the rest of the map to still give you highest torque at the wheels that the car is capable of at each speed /Just get slicks haha

Well it is if you dont make it to work

I'd say dont try release videos on a weekly basis just for the sake of it. If you end up making low quality filler videos just to meet your schedule then people will tune out real quick. Aim for meaningful content regardless of how long that might take between videos. If you watch the likes of Project Binky for example, it's highly scripted even though it might seem like you've spent an hour watching them do not much. People have infinitely small attention span now that there's essentially infinite content to consume. If I watch a video that starts out interesting but then person starts waffling then I'm not gonna watch any others from that same person. Good concise content and I'll go look at some others from same person and likely subscribe. You only need to put in marginally more effort to make exponentially better content than people just live streaming their brains onto the internet. Also a wireless lav mic helps infinitely to make video sound more professional and less echo-ey, especially on the shots where you're far from the camera. Cheap for big improvement in audio, something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000384471024.html?src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=9444695485&albag=99457316601&trgt=296904914040&crea=en4000384471024&netw=u&device=c&albpg=296904914040&albpd=en4000384471024&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgomBBhDXARIsAFNyUqMIf4Bojayo7SZrpcGsCtjLse57mcdJYhhfCbG9sGgYIfemY8-66eEaAqCWEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Sorry just saw this. Id say unlikely to even be on canbus let alone sent to obd2. (Which is usually cut down to a standard set of things) Its possibly info on canbus though, but thats highly specific car to car. You can use a can bus sniffer to see if any of the bits or bytes change value when you hit the brake or indicator though.

So checking out new motor. Has water cooled egr valve and water cooled crank case vent tube. Guess they try do everything possible to stop knock or misfire with a big egr amount. Interesting stuff, that, can fuck right off. The electric waterpump arrangement looks easy to wire up, 4 pin plug with two big and two small wires. Will be 12v, earth, then i suspect pwm input and maybe a return signal or just voltage for pwm perhaps. It looks like it would be easy to retrofit a mechanical pump setup or vice versa. Id like to keep the ewp for nerdy reasons but i suspect mechanical is lighter and more reliable. It will come down to how tricky it id to mount an alternator I guess. As the belt arrangement might be better with the mechanical pump in place. As it gives more belt wrap and acts like an idler between aircon pump and alternator. The intake manifold is interesting with a tiny tiny e-throttle unit and a shit looking manifold. This too can GTFO obviously. The egr pipes are all in the intake manifold though which is good. Nothing intrusive in the head. This later motor has a flat response knock sensor so it wont max itself out by 5000rpm like the other one does. The main trickiness of this swap, apart from mounting an alternator. Looks to be figuring out the water lines and probably just blocking a bunch of it off. Will draw some shitty diagrams to compare to regular motor next time im up.

Ahh so the "does it take slow corners faster than other car" question. Compared some GPS data. This is just peak to peak points rather than actual speed change as the data is on two separate devices that cant be overlaid. On the slow parts its pretty bloody close, which I think is amazing given the only suspension mods are Zebra sourced springs from a Toyota BB and second hand 185 wide tyres This is compared to 205/50/15 AD08R on the Carina. 3 out of the 5 corner sections, the minimum speed is near identical, and on the other two it could possibly close up the gap with some less gumby lines... has been a while! Just gotta get those peaks higher with good gearbox and big block. Haha

There's been a 2012 Toyota Aqua 1NZFXE engine on Trademe for $520 a while... 50,000km old, but says it doesnt include any extras just sold as bare block essentially. It's been relisted lots of times over, so I figured it might have been picked dry of parts since the pictures were taken. The only thing I really need that might have been taken was the water pump. But even if it wasnt there, still a decent price for a low km engine I guess. Since it was for sale from a wrecker near my work office in Auckland, I thought I'd pop my head in while I was up there yesterday and see what's left. I asked the guy if I could take a look at the motor, so we go over, and way down the back it's been sitting on a pallet completely untouched. Still has coilpacks, electric water pump, EGR junk, wiring loom, etc etc... and he said he'll include all that stuff if I buy it. Sweet! After some fairly one sided chats involving his enthusiasm to be rid of it, he haggled himself down to selling for $400 with no warranty. Done deal! So for now it's just going to be put in storage at my Dads place in Auckland until my shed is built. But I've already got the 1NZFE cams and sump ready to swap across, so will see if I can do that up there in the meantime. Gonna be good! Prius + echo combined, what an absolutely astounding motorsport pedigree

Nah still standard junk on it

There are plenty of engines that make medium-big turbo hp (for displacement) despite alloy block The only upper barrier i've heard of is someone splitting the block at ~500hp.

Its the pencil spec rods that are the problem and they shit the bed around 160hp. Its not a coincidence that the trd turbo version and the aftermarket supercharger setups all have near exact same power cap. Apart from that someone with a hearty turbo setup split the block in half at about 500hp haha.