Roman

I got all of the bellhousing stuff sorted, got the manual rack in (I have to remember to do up bolts on the steering column...) Ends up losing about 5kg with the non PS rack and no pump. Then I got the engine mostly in but there's some weird shit going on with engine mounts on the engine side. (The other two are on the gearbox) The steel mount part on the Prius block is a different shape to the 2NZ one, so I cant swap them over. I am hoping this is because the Prius block uses a 1NZ specific mount that's different to 2NZ one, meaning I just need the different rubber mount and it'll work. But the mount is wanting to sit too far forward currently, by maybe 20-30mm. So it's not sitting in it's proper spot yet, but happy to have it in the engine bay at least. It's actually been pretty easy to work on, a sideways engine isnt nearly as shit as I remember from MR2 ownership. Also I think I damaged the clutch hose so might need to go find a replacement. More hurdles but still making good progress! I think I'm still hopefully on track for engine start on the weekend. To Do list for first fire up: -Sort engine mounts -2 longer bolts and nuts needed for bellhousing -fit starter motor and battery -fill gearbox oil -fill engine oil -Fit CV rack boots properly -fit radiator/hoses/add coolant -EWP wiring -fit intake and shitty exhaust manifold -Setup new base tune file for 1500cc and 2ZZ injectors.

Okay so I managed to find a manual rack car at pick a part. All it cost was 50 swear words, catching hepatitis from crawling over busted glass and about 20 bucks. Not bad. (Also got the rubber boot that goes over it) my manual rack turned up in the post some time today as well so im good to go. Its a big dick punch working on anything in the vicinity of the power steer so im happy to be rid of it. Then ive just been burning the midnight oil taking this gearbox off and on about 20 times to confirm bolt hole stuff and make sure it all goes together nicely. I still need to file one of the holes a little more, then it will be about ready to chuck back in. Hopefully fire up on the weekend or earlier. Im glad the steering situation was easily resolved, because it was becoming disheartening to think getting the motor back in would see significant delays.

So more fails. My understanding was that if you swap the sump over, all of the bolt holes line up to the gearbox. But what it means is "At least the bottom half will line up" because literally nothing lines up to the engine block It looks like the best compromise is to drill the block. This means all of the bolts will work except for that center top one, which I guess is good enough. It's pretty meaty at the places I've drilled it. And yeah I literally just used a drill, thug life Ahhh well, still making progress I guess. Just need to file out one of the holes a little bigger then I'll have it all bolted up as good as it's ever going to get. Luckily the dowels that were in the motor came out super easily, it turns out that there is a position for dowels that's common to both the gearbox and motor. So that puts my mind at ease for making sure the clutch is aligned to the output shaft correctly, even if my bolts situation is yuck.

Looks like this might have it... will see if I can go have a look this week. http://pickapart.co.nz/eziparts/Display_Vehicle.asp?PriceListID=0&VehicleID=11941&$Location=112105099107097112097114116099111110122&LocationID=4&VehicleDesc=Toyota NCP81 But what an absolute wanker of a part to have to try get out.

From what I've seen there are two main types of speedo drives for Toyota boxes. "big gear" versions like W series box have say 31-35 teeth on them. https://www.google.com/search?q=g+series+gearbox+speedo+drive&sxsrf=ALeKk03yxNEvrg-dI2VonKFBQkNfv9cu0A:1619952729153&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiUleWX6qrwAhXPzTgGHVGrAUQQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=2560&bih=1273#imgrc=Bp1diltzu6K6xM Then "small gear" versions which have say 10 or 12 teeth on them. https://www.google.com/search?q=g+series+gearbox+speedo+drive&sxsrf=ALeKk03yxNEvrg-dI2VonKFBQkNfv9cu0A:1619952729153&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiUleWX6qrwAhXPzTgGHVGrAUQQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=2560&bih=1273#imgrc=HSnVSm-EeZ3feM These are probably the two variations being talked about, W50 series or W55 series So just see what your one looks like. With the big teeth ones they look to be universal even to FWD boxes etc.

Worst case scenario looks like can get one from Ebay. But it will be annoying if this holds things up, cant really put the motor and box back in until the rack situation is sorted. https://www.ebay.com/i/332862014592?chn=ps EDIT: It looks like later model cars that use the electric assisted column instead of a PS rack, some of them use that same intermediate shaft. Might be able to find something at pick a part. phew.

Thanks, I had a look on some EPC sites but couldnt find a diagram like that. I'll call the wrecker and see if they've got the rest of the car there still. What's the bet that sensing my desperation this part now costs $600 haha.

Yeah with the Carina, even swapping from a height adjustable column to one that isnt, absolutely bloody everything was different haha. It was also weird that my new gearbox had no speedo drive, just a blanking plate for it. But then thankfully it still had the nylon gear inside the box, so just plonked the other speedo drive in. It would have been a right bastard if that nylon inner gear wasnt there haha. It must run the speedo signal from the ABS unit on the NCP13 model. Maybe because with the big block 1500 motor you're doing too many hectic skids all of the time to rely on the front wheel speed as being accurate.

Big mission today to get old motor out and get the new motor/box/clutch/etc assembled. I was thinking it would likely be best/easiest to drop the motor out the bottom, like I've done with MR2 in the past. However once the axles are out it's pretty easy to turn the motor 90 deg and pull it straight out the front. Ended up spending about an hour and a half playing Dentist, when the new motor and new box both had the same alignment dowel stuck in them. Took a lot of heat and CRC and filing some flats into it before the bloody thing eventually came loose. Once that was sorted I tried aligning the box onto the motor but it was just too dark and too tired. So will get that sorted tomorrow after work. I CBF with the power steering so I've been keeping an eye out for a manual rack Echo at Pick a Part etc, but havent seen one yet. Then one just popped up on Trademe so bought it. hopefully it isnt missing a UJ or something specific to the manual rack (probably is, and I'm stupid for buying this) "

Good tips, I wonder if silicon spray in the oil will help reduce frictional losses at high rpm

I've pulled the throttles off the car to mock up on here. Then reverted Echo to standard manifold which is a bit more WOF friendly, even if it's technically legal with throttles on currently. Also thanks to the excellent dude Matt Gill I've got some 2ZZ injectors on the way. So that's most of the puzzle pieces solved! The main task left to figure out has been the alternator bracket, which has resulted in some head scratching and a few different attempts at finding somewhere for it to sit. Settled on this, which is very low down bolting onto bottom of the sump. Ideally I didnt want to have the mounting points that far down the engine, but I think it'll be alright. Then the worlds shittiest assortment of accessories as a tensioner. I might improve on this, but if it works probably not haha. I dont have the skills or materials or tools to make a proper version of the bracket from aluminium, so I was hoping in someone in Waikato might be able to help? Here's some more specific details if anyone can.

The next shape along (ncp91) has a non ps rack because electrically assisted steering column. Theres no electric PS from this generation (apart from Prius). But I think it runs the pump from the higher voltage battery not 12v. Hmmm but maybe its worth checking. There are poverty spec echos with non PS racks but ive never come across one before.

Progress. The head is back on properly, cam clearances all within spec after 2-3 goes of juggling the existing shims around. I pick-a-parted a front pulley, so now I can start on an alternator bracket. Funnily enough the light weight alternator kit for my 3S motor, that saves 4KG. Uses a 1NZ alternator. So there's some irony in stealing the brackets from that, in order to mount a 1NZ alternator to a 1NZ. I'll just need an intermediate plate to bolt to the side of the block and stick these on, hopefully. Not the most light weight solution but I'm more about just getting this going for now. Looks like underneath the waterpump will be the place for it, and no AC anymore. Keep the top side looking tidy - Afterall, this is a show car. One of the now superfluous water outlets was a hose barb that sat with a tapered thread into the back side of the block. Which I replaced with a drain block off bolt I pinched from a dead 3S motor. Easy fix. Also note how the dipstick on this motor nicely bends out of the way, rather than being between number 1 and 2 throttles. Excellent. The power steering pump is apparently difficult to mount on the rear side of the engine, but I'm thinking something looks doable. The amount of gasket goo required to put on both layers of the sump as well as the timing cover is insane. If this doesnt leak, I'll be suprised!

Yeah all shimless. But there was a bit of variance on the bucket numbers, hopefully i wont be touching on the narrowest gap.

Yeah you'd hope so right! Cam regrinds where it's a reduced base circle are kind of in that purgatory of cost effectiveness, if you end up needing to replace every single bucket or shim. You'd hope you dont need to do the same for a brand new cam.

Yeah the head is still off. But im not pulling valves back out, too much of a mish with the stiff valve springs. Will just get them measured up first, might be a non issue.

Maybe also improvements in automation for setting the valve clearances on day 1 I remember old mate Ken telling me about how he visited the Toyota factory in Australia. The block would come along, and a robotic probe would touch each of the valve stems (or whatever) then it would autopick the right bucket to suit the distance it measured. Like maybe as tech evolved it was just more economical to spend the money on the magic fingering machine, and less on parts for each engine (assuming hydraulic is more complicated, dunno)

Nah you need to shim them to tolerance. So if the tolerance was good from factory AND the factory cam and aftermarket one had exact same clearances, theoretically I dont need to do anything at all. But I'm guessing that's unlikely.

What do you mean by getting them refaced? Here's what I'm planning: Measure clearances, not them all down including the number on the buckets See if I can move them around to get as many as good as possible to spec find/buy the remaining bucket sizes I need. In the engine manual there's a look up table which says "If you have XYZ bucket, and you're out by this much, use number 32" or whatever Not planning on doing anything to the top face of the buckets.

I found a diagram, it looks like the water return is internal in the block rather than an external pipe like on 3S etc. So the two main external lines are just the heater circuit. However yes there's all sorts of complicated shit going on apart from just a heater! Cams arrived today, and it's bloody exciting - I've never had non standard cams in anything before. Since an Echo is basically a more modern iteration of a Starlet, I shall keep with the established nomenclature and call this a 3/4 race cam. I hope it goes hard for what it is. Not sure if these will work without pinging gilliez though. I need a set of feeler gauges to check the clearances to the buckets, then order new buckets if needed as these are shimless (Prius race car technology) They've got numbers on the underside of the bucket that tells you the thickness, so that's handy. So might be able to scab some from pick a part. I think it's safe to jizz the sump back on properly, as the only thing left that I could risk dropping down an oil gallery at this stage is a head bolt washer. (will quote myself later when I do exactly this) I've well and truly spent all of my car money for the month, so might be a few weeks till more progress. I need to get my 3d printer back in the shed so I can mock up some brackets for alternator and hopefully the PS pump too. If the PS pump isnt going to work, I'll get a single row accessory pulley from an NCP91 instead as it's presumably a little bit lighter.

Figured out the EWP and got it working easy as. It's just 2 high current wires for 12v supply and earth. Then one is a pull to ground PWM signal to control pump speed. Then the other is a square wave pump speed signal which you can feed back to the ECU. (which is what I was hoping for) So you can tell if its jammed or stopped working before the motor overheats! Cool. It's got a failsafe so a high duty cycle on the pwm signal slows the pump down - So if there's no signal, it runs at full speed. Trying to work out the water line situation though, I'm not sure if there's a water bypass for if the thermostat is closed. What looks like a bypass hose also looks like a heater line. But if that's the case, no flow through heater core if the heater line is shut. There's also an extra heater sized water outlet on the exhaust side of the motor, which isnt there on the normal motor. Hmm. Might have to try find an engine manual that shows how it's supposed to go. Finally used my Aliexpress spec USB oscilloscope for something. I also got my head back from the engine shop with the new valve springs fitted, $75 saved me about 100 swear words and 10 hours so a good deal. Hopefully cams here on Monday.

Reminds me of that story where one of the F1 teams (or whatever) came up with a new front wing or front duct or something that made them go faster. Every time the car came into the pits, the team would throw covers over the rear of the car as a distraction So everyone kept trying to peek under there and figure out what was different. But no one looked at the front Excuse me if this is an absolutely awful paraphrasing

In terms of fuel atomization, if you've tried cold start tuning then you'll know that the port shape or surface doesnt stop fuel from sticking to the port. When the motor is hot. You spray the fuel onto a hot port and hot valves while they are closed, then the heat vaporizes it back off the walls and you get a good air/fuel mix. When the motor (port) is cold, you have to add a bunch of extra fuel because so much of it pools to the walls and doesnt remix. If the boundary layer could affect this, then every single manufacturer would have dimpled ports just for sake of cold start emissions. Because cold start is a huge contributor to bad emissions. (well, prior to direct injection at least I guess) When you've got carbs mounted really far from the port, then rough surface probably helps more to keep fuel off the walls, but what would help even more is just keeping the whole thing hot. Also people always talk about airspeed like it's fixed. At 1000rpm you've got 1/10th of the airspeed of 10,000rpm. At a cold idle you've got no airspeed (so port shape means fuck all) and no heat in the port and it's a fueling disaster regardless of what else is going on. I guess point being that port shape changes dont affect all load and rpm ranges equally, and the times where you'd want to best increase fuel mixing is when dimples do nothing

I think the dimpled thing is bullshit, because the point of golfball dimples it is to reduce the flow seperation at the rear of the ball as the air flows around it. So less drag. The only place on a port that I think you could get anything similar would be on the short side radius of a particularly gross port. Or if you are reducing the boundary layer, then you're increasing the effective area of the port. So it would make a big port worse, but an undersized port potentially flow a smidge better. But I'm sure I remember reading stuff about it being useless essentially. Most of what I'm learning from @kprs fine work at Garage4AGE is how important seeming things do fuck all, and seemingly arbitrary things make a big difference!

Ahh good point! I wonder if regular 1nz ones will fit.