Roman

Ahh yeah thats where I'm stuck at the moment too. 

I've got about a dozen new points in the fuel system where it could potentially spray out of, at tank end and engine end. 

Need to find the time to clear all of the crap off, and push the whole car out a safe distance from the house. haha.

I'm loving the progress on this! 

Shame about the bumper bar, intercooler setup looked cool.

Aahhh so these injectors might be okay, at least for starters.
I left them all to soak in CRC overnight, then made a up a lead to tap them on/off straight onto a 12v battery, and they all clicked. 
So then I setup the injector test mode in the ECU to run them through 10,000 cycles while they were full up with CRC. 
Then tested all 6 outputs on my loom and they're all working. 
So they might have just been ever so slightly stuck. 
They still might be partially blocked or whatever, but I'll flow test them first to make sure they are balanced and that the spray pattern looks okay. 
If I can avoid a $500-600 bill for new injectors, that's money this month for stuff like the exhaust which is much better! 

4 hours ago, shrike said:

550cc would give you headroom for e85 or are you just looking at running pump gas?

Just pump gas, E85 is just too much hard work. 

Yep just about! 

Need to fill gearbox with oil, bolt exhaust manifolds on, replace injectors, make sure the fuel pump still works.

Then coolant is optional for first start, haha. But it's damn close. 

At the moment I was just working on the basis that the V10 has 10 cylinders and makes 500hp, so 6 cyl worth of injectors should be 300hp capable no problem. 

However has rpm goes up, you need a slightly bigger injector to make the same amount of HP. As your deadtime gobbles up an increasing amount of your available time to spray.
 

If you're looking at getting that wagon, probably want to do a rack and pinion conversion as the steering box stuff takes up heaps of space where you'd want to run the exhaust.
Also most likely has leaf spring in rear of that wagon which is a bit gross compared to 4 link. 

Also, at the best of times with some $$$ spent these cars handle... not amazing compared to modern stuff.
But with standard suspension etc they just wallow all over the road haha.
Costs a fair bit of $$$ to get them handling and braking a bit better.
With lots of weight in front and not much power would be kind of like wielding a marshmallow sledgehammer. 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8I6soGvGeI
 

6 hours ago, GARDRB said:

MR2 

Overall size: 770mm x 308mm x 42mm

 

Core Size: 670mm x 308mm x 42mm

Inlet & Outlet size 32mm

https://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/product/to-suit-toyota-mr2-sw20-radiator/

 

GT86 
Core size: 355mm x 650mm x 42mm.
https://www.fenixcooling.co.nz/collections/performance-radiators/products/toy8877fa42m?variant=41172446480

 

I found an SW20 one that is a little different on dimensions:

Core Size: 675mm *320mm *40mm

Overall Size: 755mm *345mm *50mm

Row: 2 Core

If it turns up and is 770mm then I'm in trouble haha.

52 minutes ago, GARDRB said:

Crazy idea here....

Run what you have, and see what happens. Don't waste energy theorising on what might happen, and over-complicating things. This was the Echo's charm, cheap, cheerful and iterative.

I also know that your name is David and you're incapable of not over-thinking the whole process 

Yeah I hear you, and I am focused on getting this from current its current state to a running motor/car ASAP with no fucking around on non essentials. (Can do that iteratively once it's going, like echo. thats the fun part)
As I want to know how well my engine scheme is going to pan out!
So the seemingly easiest way would have been to keep the Altezza radiator that I already had - but the pipe sizes are wrong, and the pipe locations dont really work either.
I was hoping the Mark X setup would just tick off all of these boxes, just have to remake some top and bottom mounts. 
But it's actually only as thin as the Altezza radiator (16mm) and the hoses didnt really fit too well since the radiator and engine heights dont match relative positions to factory.
Bottom mounts will be easy, but the top ones tricky because it's tall. But once mounted it's going to be even taller, and I suspect it will hit the bonnet. 

So my thinking here is actually to NOT waste my time, rather than to dilly dally with unimportant stuff.
So I'm cutting my losses and ironically going to SW20 parts haha.
To get the motor running I dont need an air intake at all, and I dont need any radiator ducting. 
So I'll bang the radiator in there, work out the mounts, work out the pipes, then fill the damn thing up.
This new radiator is 40m thick core as well, so hopefully zero cooling issues if I can get some air to it.

This SW20 radiator was $220 delivered so meets the cheap and cheerful criteria! 

Needs to be huge for a car that doesnt go! 

And yeah can probably tip it a bit, there's a reasonable amount of room ahead of the motor.

I've blown up shitloads of Bosch 4.2 and 4.9 sensors, so changed to the 14point7 Spartan controller, with the LSU-ADV sensor. 

It lasted the entire lifespan of the echo without blowing up a single sensor, and was running it "hot" on cold starts as well. 

(As it's designed to be more compatible with cold starts than 4.2 or 4.9)

Compared to, I think my record with a 4.2 or 4.9 sensor for worst lifespan was that one lasted 3 days. 

I think the general idea is that the faster you are going, the less air intake area you need for your radiator size. 
A lot of the time attack cars have tiny little holes for the radiator.

Total lower grill entry area is 77542mm2 . Equivalent area to a 315mm circle.
57081mm2 for the upper grill entry. Equivalent area to a 270mm diameter circle.

The front valance sits quite high on this car, but it's really hard to add something to the front to lower it that doesnt look like absolute shit. 
I very much do not like this style of front on this era car: 




This below though can look cool though but it's hard to get it right, often looks gumby when someone fits one that isnt wide enough or the right shape for the car.
May also be incompatible with my rural driveway haha.

Recently Dad's car broke the rear door handle, and no inside button. But it turns out he could log in with a canbus scan tool to pop it open.

TL;DR:

Using a table to look up circle coordinates instead of maths 

Welcome to 

Roman Dave's guide to drawing a circle on a screen when you are mathematically smooth brained

Surely drawing a circle has to be one of the most common and easy things, so there would be heaps of libraries for it? 
Yeah there are, but they all use radians which makes absolutely no sense to me.

So instead of figuring out why radians are good I'm going to brute force my way through the problem by not understanding anything.

My LED screen has a resolution of 128x64. 
So If I want to draw some circles on it, or having a sweeping needle on a gauge that is circular, or, whatever. 
The answer is something to do with Cosine or whatever calculation right? 

YEAH PROBABLY.

Instead you can draw a circle in Mspaint that is 64 pixels tall, then count all of the pixels around the perimeter. 
So thats the maximum possible number of visible divisions that my circle can have. 
Works out to be something like 3.something degrees per division. 
So I make a lookup table with 45 values in it (2 degree increments) 

then draw a quarter of a circle in fusion 360 and measure the X and Y coordinates as I rotate the line in 2 degree increments. 

It turns out that the X axis values are the same as the Y axis values, just starting from the other end. 
So I can have a lookup table with only 45 values in it to describe any point in the circle's X and Y coordinates to 2 degrees accuracy"
(Flipping X or Y values depending on which quarter of the circle it needs to be)

//X value = circleLUT [degrees/2]
//Y value = circleLUT [46-degrees/2]
int circleLUT[46] =  {0,17,35,52,70,87,104,121,138,155,171,187,203,219,235,250,264,280,293,308,321,334,347,360,372,383,394,405,415,424,433,442,449,457,463,469,476,481,485,489,492,495,497,499,499,500};

 

I will use those little slide on linkages that came with the throttles and will weld them to back of the pulleys.

Then have some ability to set the angle when tightening it.

I can also shorten or lengthen the cable. As one end can be unscrewed and moved.

Then if it turns out i still need more fine adjustment. I will add a small tensioner wheel to the cable part way between, that can adjust to effectively tighten the cable. 

100% keen to come do some back breaking labor on some old timey machines in an illegal gold mine 

On 19/02/2024 at 18:36, Snoozin said:

to be fair on Taiwan, a lot of the decent mid-range brands originate there. BC, Fortune Auto, XYZ etc all come out of Taiwan.

Maxpeedingrods is the finest of Chinesium trash.

Also just about every single microchip or processor or whatever in the world comes from Taiwan. 

China doesn't want to take it over so they can have cheap coilovers

Also to be faaiiirrrrrr @kpr has used MaxSpeedings... Rods. in his projects with success. 

Rods yes, coilovers no.

35 minutes ago, dabuzz said:

 

interesting, the pulley he used would only produce around  14psi on the street with pump fuel, but with a few more "race" rpm and methanol it saw 21psi out of it, massive for a rootes blower

True, interesting.

This will probably be because theres the same amount of air as before but more of the space being taken up by methanol. So boost goes up. As you run it at a 4:1 ratio or whatever.

(petrol 14.7:1 stoich, meth 6:1)

Maybe also some of the cooling effect of methanol if it was injected before the charger. As roots blower runs crazy hot.

Either way, cant wait to see how this goes with a modern efi setup this time! 

Oh wow, I never knew Tony used the setup after you sold the RX4. 

Must have been making some awesome power to run that fast! 

What happened to the motor, was it load on the front of the crank made things break or something?