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Abarth

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Posts posted by Abarth

  1. Sweet as. That stumble at low throttle is caused by the butterfly opening, taking in air and not yet getting fuel from the progression holes.

    Needs that 4th hole drilled directly over the butterfly to fix. It’s like a 1mm hole drilled in exactly the right spot.

    My 130tc has this exact issue and I’ve been meaning to get it drilled for ages.

  2. @azzurro Are they Weber 152 made in Spain versions?

    if they are it’ll be the progression holes causing the issue. Or lack of, there should be 4 or 5 holes but the 152’s only have 3. The 4th hole should be directly over the butterfly.

    Have a look how many holes it has, they are under the bigger brass flat head cap screw on the engine side. One for each throttle body.

    Edit, like this:

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    • Like 4
  3. Hondas been leaking fuel for about a year now from the fuel tank, it was a slow seep which was annoying and was mostly soaked up by the foam in the seat which stunk of gas. Also the pipes which share each side of the tank were blocked and leaking. Basically this tank has had hack after hack fixes with solider, JB weld etc...

    Safety first, pumped exhaust through it for about 15mins to get rid of the petrol fumes.

    Drilled out the old share pipes and mounted the threaded steel boss.

    Leak came from under the mount bracket, didn’t have a spot weld bit so just went hard with a normal bit. Pretty mank under the bracket, no paint in there so wasn’t a surprise it rusted.

    Welded up the holes but I reckon I’ll get the rest Tig welded as my Mig isn’t great at sealing up fuel tight.

    Decided on painting it, need to strip the POR15 liner as it was fkd and coming apart in the tank so I covered the whole tank inside and out in stripper. Will be repainted in black 2k

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    • Like 4
  4. I scored some free BRZ seats to fit into the Punto however the BRZ seat mounts are a little wider than the Puntos

    Are there any recommendations for anyone who could cutty cutty weldy weldy to make the mounts fit?

     

     

  5. Took this over to Waiheke for NYs. 

    Went for a decent ride to the back of the island with the mrs, Honda ran like champ, handled the gravel road no worries.

    Got to Man O War bay and had lunch, sick spot to chill next to the water. 

     

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    • Like 8
  6. Gave the new paint a light cut and metal polished the chrome down pipes. 

    All ready for it’s first test run this weekend! 

    Next is to get a number 2 carb needle to convert it from 1:10 to 1:25 oil/petrol mix. And a new seal for the prop.

    and one last pic of the prop :) 

     

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    • Like 7
  7. Thanks fellas, they are really cheap on trademe, people seem to leave them for ages in the back of a garage then sell them in unknown condition.

    Its hectic in the wheelie bin at full throttle haha

    Runs a hearty 10:1 oil petrol mix so I got some Ipone two stroke oil, smells like strawberry when it’s running which adds to the lol factor.

     

    Is this the next summer OS event; Seagull dinghy races? I can picture the spanies now.

     

    Edit:

    Video inspo!!

     

     

    • Like 8
  8.  

    11 hours ago, tortron said:

    Hot damn, bass boat flake on the dinghy plz

    Cheers, the dinghy is two tone white and orange,  hence the orange grips for the Seagull.

    Forgot to mention these things are insanely well built, probably why they have a reputation for reliability. A lot of it’s made from Brass; the fuel tank, the whole exhaust pipe, pins, nuts and bolts etc... 

    Will test it out this weekend so standby for updates

    Here’s a couple more pics!

     

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    • Like 8
  9. Yip, driven a couple of manual ones, standard and modded. 

    Auto was actually suprisingly good, super smooth, the car as a whole drove really nicely. Excellent for Auckland traffic but wouldn’t be great for track duties etc.

    There’s like a 10k - 15k ish price difference between and the AT one was tidy.

    • Like 1
  10. 7 minutes ago, rotor_dude said:

    All series 6 and probably series 7 will have oily turbos, just age, wear, tear etc

    Your not going to get one without it really.

    I wouldn't let it put you off. It just needs factored in.

    Just something that will need done due to age of cars,

    Same as rear pillow balls, series 6, most will need replaced, now series 7 getting to that age to, where 3/4 out of 6 need replaced

    You won't get a perfect one now. Being 20-25 years old

    You can't really avoid the cars because of it, 

    Unless someone has spent money reco turbos and new pillow balls.

     

     

    Yeah no doubt they are getting old. Just don’t want it to shit the bed straight after buying it, especially if it’s turbos or a water seal causing the white smoke. 

  11. On 11/08/2018 at 09:54, rotor_dude said:

    You take the trailing spark plugs out,

    Not leading.

    Results not accurate unless have rpm.

    As it changes etc

    Adjusted to 250rpm

    But if there 3 even pulses, even between front and rear rotors, that's good start.

     

    Would help if you gave all 3 readings per rotor.

    I personally do a cold and operating temp compression test, for better comparison. 

    From memory, minimum compression

    85 psi at 250 rpm

    5.9 kpa at 250 rpm

     

    white smoke on start up,

    possibly the turbos, the oil seals have gone, letting oil into the intake side of things,

    so overnight the oil drains to the lowest points in the inlet,

    then on start up oil is in the intake and burns etc

    check the y pipe coming off the turbo outlets, on Series 6 there is a hose and pipe you can remove and see if oil inside etc

     

     

    Thanks man. 

    Could be right with the turbos smoking as from cold it smoked a lot of white smoke on startup, a good 2 min then cleared. Then starting it hot it smoked a bit too but cleared much quicker. 

    It’s a shame as it’s a tidy car, I’ll probably just steer clear and get a MT one anyways. 

     

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