Scrubb

So, I did a little bit of troubleshooting today. I took out the air box and sprayed the air flow sensor liberally with brake clean. It was a bit filthy, and I found the intercooler hose was loose, so I tightened that up while I was there, but none of this made any difference at all. I did notice though, that there was a short period of time where it ran quite smoothly between the needle coming off cold and getting in to hot and only for 30 seconds or so, then it was back to it's normal spluttering. Once it warmed up, I also disconnected the air flow sensor and it caused the car to stall, so I'm assuming that's working. I then reconnected that and disconnected the vacuum hose going to the boost sensor and the idle speed immediately dropped and ran even worse and I could hear the hose hissing so sounds like there's good vacuum there. So would I be right to assume my sensors are probably working okay and to look elsewhere?

Awesome, that should help me in my search for parts!

Non-top hat manifold - Is that what mine is? Image below is of my engine bay: https://goo.gl/photos/JEF9XuZcFXzPgiZ88

Cool, thanks, I'll contact him as I'm very particular and want to have piece of mind that all my sensors are in working order, even if they're not all 100% needed I've got new NGK plugs in which according to NGK are the correct ones for the engine (B7ES or something like that) but I haven't gapped them as I'm not sure what the gap should be. i'll have a look under the bonnet tonight and see if it says... I'm considering everything at this point, but I'd like to do the sensors first as nearly everything I read online of other people having the same symptoms, their issues were fixed by renewing their sensors, particularly the O2, I think, but Phil has successfully ran his without one with no issue, so I'm not sure what the deal is, but I'll start there for my own piece of mind and then move on to fuel pump, injectors and ECU/knock sensor, I guess. OR1ON, on a side note, does your Starion have the servo ISC motor and have you ever looked at replacing this? Mine's not working and I THINK I've found the part for a 2.6 engine overseas for big bucks (Not sure ifit's the same, will have to get part number), but was wondering if it's available aftermarket here for cheaper and failing that there's a place I found which might be able to repair it as they do ones for later model Mitsubishi's. One other quick question, will BNT be able to look up what I need, do you think? In the past I've had to provide Mitsubishi part numbers for them, but in this case I don't have any.

Bugger, hopefully the ECU is still good, but I'll get the sensors sorted out first so then I know 100% they're good before I start looking at ECU, etc.. Is anybody able to assist me in sorting these sensors? O2 sensor Exhaust temp sensor Air intake sensor Air flow meter Coolant temp sensor

Funny you mention that. The car in question is his GSR I bought from him! I left it with him to go over and he said he checked the vacuum lines and couldn't reproduce the problem, but that was when it only played up when hot. Also, I know the idle speed control is controlled electronically by a motor which moves the throttle linkage which I have confirmed isn't working as I understand there should be movement when turning the key ON, but I couldn't get any movement out of it. I bumped the idle up to compensate and it idles at a good speed when hot, but a little low when cold.

Wow fuel. That's everything I needed to know, and more! Thanks! Yes, it's an intercooled model and it misfires at all times, but gets worse as the engine heats up, to the point where every time I come to a stop, the engine stalls and when starting it back up, I have to hold my foot on accelerator so that it doesn't stall - The idle speed is fine when it decides it doesn't want to stall, though. I've also checked the ECU coolant temp sensor and I assume it's working as I checked it's resistance when cold and when hot and it's resistance had changed dramatically. You suggest looking at the injectors, and I will do, but I just wanted to make sure I had all my sensors in order first before getting in to anything else. Do you know if the sensors and injectors are available to buy? Probably not OEM, I would assume... There's so many vacuum lines I'm not sure where to start, but I'll pull some off when the weather is better and check for vacuum. I did pull a couple random ones off last night and couldn't feel any vacuum. I just assumed it was because it was at idle.

After some more research I found the pic below which looks like the one on the exhaust just after the turbo - oxygen sensor http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/cZEAAOSwAL9UbW5k/s-l1600.jpg I assume from my research on the net that the one after the cat will be the same. Don't know what the others are though.

Is someone able to fill me in on what the deal is with the sensors I have on my engine, what sensors do I have and how can I test them? Car is 1987 Mitsubishi Lancer EX 1800 GSR with 4G62T engine. The reason I ask is that it's suffering from a very bad misfire which is progressively getting worse and I've replaced all the ignition components with no change and reading online leads me to possible the O2 sensor. It looks like I potentially have 4 sensors from my quick look today, but I don't know what they are. It looks like there could be 2 on the exhaust - one before and one after the cat converter, there's a wire coming out of the air box so I assume there's one in there but I haven't taken the air box off to check, and there's one on the intake right before the injectors. I've attempted to check the one on intake and exhaust just after the turbo by connecting my multimeter to the terminals and measured both voltage and resistance across the pins, or between ground and pin for single wire sensor and I can't get any reading at all, so I'm not sure what to do. Is someone able to fill me in on what sensors I probably have and how to test them? I can get pics if needed but I thought maybe someone on here would be able to decipher my mumbling and know what I'm talking about Thanks!

Okay, so I think I got the correct ones this time. Went to BNT and they were able to use the Mitsubishi part numbers to cross reference some aftermarket ones and I ended up with two which look the same as what's on the car and they also have the same bore sizes. Sounds like a win. Will take the other ones I got back to Supercheap. Thanks for the advice, all!

The hole where the bleeder goes has nothing, just a deep hole.

Yup, that cylinder is the old one and I expected to find one the same in the packet but what I got was one with one hole identical to that picture and the other hole had a bleed nipple. So, I was told I can remove the bleed nipple and attach the brake line instead but that doesn't sound like correct advice to me?

I'm facing a bit of confusion with my brake cylinders, so I hope someone can help me here. I ordered 2x brake cylinders for the rear of my lancer from Supercheap. They had 2 part numbers, one for the left and one for the right. My car has on the right side one brake line which goes into the wheel cylinder with a bleed nipple and on the left side there are two brake lines which go in to that cylinder. The confusion arose when I went about replacing these and I started with the right hand side and I didn't even look at the part numbers in the box because the cylinder i pulled out had one brake line connection and one bleed nipple as I suspected, so I get that all put back together and I moved over to the other side, took the old one off and went to attach the new one and this one also has only one brake line fitting and a bleed nipple. I thought maybe I need to remove the bleed nipple so I did that, but the hole where the bleed nipple screws in is very different from where the brake line connects. The brake line goes in about a centimeter or so and then there's a valve or something in there, but the other hole where the bleed nipple connects is just a very deep hole, like an inch or so. I took the wheel cylinder back to Supercheap and asked them if they could find one with 2 brake line fittings and I was told "You have them the wrong way around, the one already on the car (right side) needs to go on the left, and this one needs the bleed nipple removed and installed on the right". Although I know nothing about these things, it didn't sound right to me so I went to Mitsubishi with the OEM part numbers and they advised BNT have direct aftermarket replacement, but before I do that, is Supercheap correct? Can I remove the bleed nipple and carry on, or do I need to get the cylinder designed to have two brake lines connected? This is what the old one looks like:

Are you willing to part with these components and are they small enough to courier? One other question I had was, do these cars have an additional electric fan when setup for AC like more modern cars do?

Cool, great info. Thanks Spence! I may put up a thread in the parts section and see if anyone might know of an evaporator

Hey guys, I'm wanting to fit the FACTORY air conditioning stuff (from a turbo model, I assume as I don't know if there's any 1600's with AC in NZ) to my Lancer which has the 1600 (4G32) engine in it, but I'm unsure of what I need exactly and what parts might be interchangeable from other cars. I've looked at the car and it looks like all the factory stuff will bolt up just fine, except the compressor might need a bracket made to fit to my engine (May even not need to do this, but I'm not sure as I haven't looked at the factory bracket yet), and I may need to machine a starion or GSR Lancer crank pully to allow the extra belt. I had a guy who was going to give me the piece which goes under the dash, but he never pulled through, and I understand I'd just need compressor, condensor and piping? Can someone please inform me what would be the go here and if anyone knows of any factory parts, I'd be greatful. I'm new to all of this. Thanks!

Yep, looks like that's where mine goes too

Are you talking about the hose near #1 in my first picture? I can check where it goes if you need.

Hope this helps!

If you still need help with this let me know. I've got a 4G32 with an Aisan carb so i can take more pics if needed

I'm sorry, I missed out some information. The gearbox is a KM119 5-speed and the sticker in the engine bay says to use 80w gearbox oil and I have installed Castrol VMX Manual 80W oil (this stuff here) which was recommended. I made sure I got a new one of these too, as I was advised this was a potential problem Cool, I might just drop the oil as soon as it stops raining (If it ever does!) and see what's up. I just thought I'd ask for some advice as it's a bit disappointing to spend $1,000 and have a gearbox that performs no better than it did before, but I hope time will tell!

So, I went against my own ideas and used a workshop to get some work done on my Lancers' gearbox as it was thudding and grinding into second and third gear. I normally stay away from workshops cause I don't trust others to work on my car, but thought this was something I couldn't attempt myself and it would be much quicker to just get a shop to sort it out, so I told them the problem and the shop installed new synchros for 2nd and 3rd gear with new input, main shaft and lay shaft bearings. The problem came when I put the gearbox back in my car and went for a drive, and although it felt nice most of the time, second and third gear were still crunchy and I sometimes had difficulty sliding the lever into the correct position to engage the gear. I also noticed a whirring/ratting noise when accelerating or decelerating in 4th gear (This has since gone away though). I have to emphasize, the guy who did the work is a really good guy, has been good to me in the past when buying parts and has been working on these cars for years, so I'm not put off by going back to him which I did, actually and he drove the car. He mentioned that it catched a bit on 2nd and 3rd but said it wasn't anything to worry about and hopefully it would go away after a bit of driving (all the other symptoms didn't present them selves while he was driving - typical!). So my question is, since I've dropped about $1,000 on this, should I take it back and ask him to take another look at it? I'm reluctant to do this as I'll probably get charged a ton more labour to pull it apart again? What is normally done in this situation with car repairs?

Have bought one of these for my brother and it has worked a treat on everything I've used it for so far. Used it to pull apart the suspension/diff and flywheel bolts on my Lancer

I'm well aware of docks, but this isn't what I'm going for. I wanted a way to use the factory radio and speaker, or at least use the shell of the radio. If that Pyle stereo linked on the page previous will go in the factory location then that might be the most ideal solution. Shame it doesn't have bluetooth though, but might be a good sacrifice!

By "shaft" installed, does that mean I can take the knobs off and it will slide into place where the old one was? It's a bit hard to see, but the factory one is here: