Scrubb

3 minutes ago, JoKer said:

I might have missed it but what width are your rims?

I wouldn't have a clue, to be honest. Whatever the standard steel wheels are on a Lancer EX.

24 minutes ago, tortron said:

Why would you want to get rid of the relay for the spotlights? They have a switch feed from the highbeams so they only come on when high beam is on

Yeah I thought this might be the case but I remember them being on when I was driving through town, so I don't think they only come on with high beams, or it's broken. There is a manual power switch inside the cabin.

I want to remove them for now because I've just had the front bumper painted and it looks so clean without the spotlights, so I want to get rid of the messy wiring with them.

Just putting this out there. Is there anyone in Hamilton who's good at automotive electrical stuff who might be keen to come to my house and sort out this birds nest of wiring for the lights?

There's 4 relays set up both for the headlights and the spotlights and I thought I could just remove the 2 relays for the spotlights, but it seems it's not that simple as they're also wired in to the headlights and I'm a bit lost.

Happy to pay with your favourite beverage, or cash if you can help me

Thanks for all your advice everyone.

I think I'm going to see if I can try some 165's on these wheels and see how they look, if I remember correctly they may have looked a little baloony last time I had them on, so may stick with 165's as long as they're still available, we'll see!

Thanks again

1 hour ago, kiwiplymouth said:

Your safe,a lancer won't go 150kph.

hehe

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6yiVdzzqeupzFDhq9

33 minutes ago, JoKer said:

I don't think you'll notice 10mm on either side of a tire (165>185) & common sense would go there, even just for the extra grip & safety is why I run 185's on my Avenger, yep does affect speedo, more than you realise & becomes evident with a GPS

so yeah : keen to follow this discussion & where it goes too!

the 77$ 13" Whitewalls in the petrolhead magazine look tempting too!

I've had 185's on one of my other Lancers before and I did notice quite a difference and the steering was heavier, but the biggest difference was the grip was probably 500% better than the 165's which was awesome! - hard decision for me.

Speedo reading shouldn't be too much of an issue, I think:

Okay, so I have a couple of noob questions which I can't find any answers for online and hopefully some of you guys can fill some gaps for me.

I need some new tyres for my EX Lancer, and because my car is so clean and original, I think I've decided to keep the original tyre size of 165/80R13 instead of going for the wider, more commonly available 185/70R13 to preserve that same ride and feel the vehicle would have had back in the day. I have Toyo T1R's on my Turbo lancer for when I want that more sporty feel.

There's a couple of tyre models and brands I'm contemplating and I realise grip is always going to be a huge compromise at this small tyre width, but I'm looking at these:
Goodride RP28
Goodyear DuraPlus (Asymmetric)
Toyo Nano Energy 3 Eco Premium (I have these on my gf's car in 185 width and have no complaints)

So my questions:

1. Am I being silly going for the skinnier 165mm width tyres over the commonly available 185?
2. With the smaller width, would there be a potential disadvantage going for the asymmetric tyres?
3. Can I tell by looking at the tread pattern what characteristics a tyre might have? (Does this even matter for such a small width?)

Thoughts/suggestions/criticims?

I've just added my 4G63 intake manifold drawing which has the fuel pump hole blocked off to allow for external pump:

18 hours ago, datlow said:

Super cheap does paint matching now too, maybe cheaper to get aerosol can and spray into airbrush gun

Yeah, I was sure they did too, but the only thing they could do for me is make up some paint from different swatches they had, and of course nothing matched

I've got a panel beating place painting my front guards and bumper at the moment so I've asked them if they can match some paint for me

23 hours ago, tortron said:

Go to rali on tr rapa straight (resene auto and industrial) they seemed oretty good when i bought some 2k from them legally

 

Linkup paint supplies has also been very helpful when iv had paint matched

Thanks torton. I'll try them Resene and if no luck, then Linkup

Seems there's a few people in the know about paint on here. Would anyone be willing to help me get some colour matched paint? I only need a small amount as I just want to use my air brush to touch up a couple interior pieces that got scratched up during recent repairs and maybe paint a couple small pieces.

Autolink told me "too hard" and another panel beater told me "We only deal in 2k paints and it's illegal to sell any to you". What a load of shit as I currently use 2k clear to paint my car models.

I have a plastic trim piece which is coloured plastic (textured, but the underside is smooth) and a painted metal trim piece (textured) to take samples from.

Oh, and I'm in Hamilton.

14 hours ago, Roman said:

Okay soooooo

Arduino Due. Its canbus can work between two Arduino Dues, but you need a transceiver chip to make it work with a "proper" canbus. 
So bought some transceivers, which apon arrival I realised they are the wrong ones. D'oh.
So rethinking it some more, although I like the fast speed of the Due, and the fact that it's got a native canbus thats easier to write for.
Eventually I want to add some other canbus devices in addition to ECU and dash, in which case I dont need or want the bulk of a Mega sized arduino board.
So thats the next problem, if I write a bunch of code for a Due, and then want to add a smaller arduino device I'd need to rewrite all the code rather than just chop snips out of it to make it work. 

So from here. 
I found out about the Teensy. 
Teensy V3.6 is 180mhz 32 bit and basically trumps the Due in every conceivable way while being exceptionally tiny! And it's arduino sketch compatible.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14057

It's also got 2 canbus lines and can use this exceptionally small double transducer.

https://www.tindie.com/products/Fusion/dual-can-bus-adapter-for-teensy-35-36/

So since it's small enough and not incredibly cost prohibitive I'll probably make everything on my bus use a teensy + that transceiver for sake of keeping the code easy.

Then 3d print some housings to suit.
Now that I understand things a bit better I dont need to use any of the shields I had.
Should be nice and compact for whatever they end up doing. 

Please excuse my ignorance. I don't know how this canbus stuff works, BUT I have successfully moved my arduino code directly to an ATtiny45 chip and it ran without issues, all contained on a single chip. Can get them in 2, 4 and 8 KB variants if I remember corectly (ATtiny25, ATtiny45, ATtiny85).

http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/Atmel-2586-AVR-8-bit-Microcontroller-ATtiny25-ATtiny45-ATtiny85_Datasheet-Summary.pdf

Cheap as chips:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20PCS-LOT-ATTINY45-20SU-TINY45-20SU-SOP8-ATTINY45/32809882098.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.23.1f1d630cWRA1XH&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_10547_10343_5722611_10340_10548_10341_10696_5722911_5722811_5722711_10084_10083_10618_10307_10059_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_5722511,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=c4c137fb-0e6a-4392-9b17-43858c127174-3&algo_pvid=c4c137fb-0e6a-4392-9b17-43858c127174&priceBeautifyAB=0

Please let me know if this helps, or if I'm completely off track!

On 12/14/2017 at 20:18, Esky_addict said:

Oh yep sounds good. Anyone know of a good site to get some info on wiring subs up to an amp properly, I've dragged my old subs and amp out to chuck in hq, I haven't had them in a car for a few years and am not sure I had them wired up correctly, they are rockford P2D4-12 subs and a PRS-d1100m pioneer amp.

I'e just been having a look on the net about the different ways of wiring them 1ohm 4ohm etc

https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/support/wiring-wizard/

I don't know if it will work with something that size, but what I've seen done in the past with 1:24 scale models is to thin the paint down so it's very thin, apply it and capillary action automatically fills in the gap and usually produces a nice result.

Kinda like this:

10 hours ago, igor said:

How many times does that make?

Genuine first time

Just clicked over 100,000 at the Todd/Mitsubishi Heritage day

https://imgur.com/a/ZBJ5BOX

Cool pics. I'd upload some, but mine are much the same as what you have taken already.

Was a pretty cool event, actually. Worth the long drive. There was even another car the same colour and with the same interior as mine there which was pretty cool to see and was good to meet and have a yarn to @Avenga. Such a Cool dude.

Currently working on intake manifold flange to fit Mitsubishi G63B engine with the intention of mounting twin sidedraught webers. I'll post the file up here when finished, but it currently looks like this:

Registered

I'm in Hamilton. Keen for Convoy

Am hoping to go to this.

2 hours ago, chasinthemirage said:

Saw that Escort pesting about Napier yesterday afternoon. 

Went for a tour in this lush Packard this morning.

Also saw these two in a car park, I assume they've been to Leadfoot?

Apologies for potatoe photos, camera lens doesn't particularly like chemicals.

@chasinthemirage, We went on the same tour just a couple days ago. Did you get the same lady in the picture driving? We thought she was quite good, but had some issues with the brakes locking up, which was a bit funny with no seatbelts!

Edit: We went for a ride in the blue Packard

On 12/12/2017 at 08:31, peteretep said:

Shit yeah. I follow a 3D printer group on Facebook and it really grinds my gears how little I see those dudes making actual useful stuff

I'm trying to build up my library of useful stuff. Just test fitted the clip which holds the windscreen trim on and it seems to fit:

Reproduced a couple other things too.

Badge which goes on the boot:

I've also done the caps which go on top of the struts and a faceplate for a modern stereo, which looks factory, but I don't have any pics.

+1 for Fusion 360, but I'm not keen on the interface so I'm using Autodesk Inventor 2018 instead. (Anything's free on the internet these days :P)

Took some pics from my manual this morning. Is this the info you're after?