~Slideways~

So good! Looks like awesome fun on the track.

Found that the wiring for the brake lights on the original style brake lights are the same inside so used some from a damaged set.

Removed the plug from the preface lift type lights and soldered/shrink wrapped:

Yay, working type-x lights, the photo came out really dull/washed out but in real life they are a nice vibrant dark red:

Sacrificial brake lights, cracked and chipped etc, in the bin:

13 hours ago, kpr said:

doesn't matter so much on inline 6 cylinder or 4 cylinder for that matter (unless oddball setup) .  long as crank itself is balanced, and all the pistons and rods are the same weight as each other.  which is easy enough to do yourself.

aftermarket pistons should be pretty much bang on.  but  worth weighing them anyway. along with the pin and ring set going on them.   mix and match pins/ pistons. zing a bit off pistons if needed

factory toyota rods, at least all the 4age one ive weighed can be a bit off. i would assume jz would be no different.  so probably worth doing more so than the pistons.  you can end weight them.  or at least make them weigh the same if cant be assed making a jig. 

Yeah these CP pistons should be within 1 gram of each other, will look into rod weights since I am using stock ones.

16 hours ago, shrike said:

Getting the Pistons ceramic/Teflon coated? are you going to get the bottom end balanced?

I think ceramic coating would be overkill to be honest. The stock pistons could have handled it, if it weren't for fueling issues. 

As for balancing, undecided. Inline 6's are pretty much the perfect engine for balance anyway, except v12's...which is just 2 of them haha.

Got a set of knuckles from a Ralliart Lancer/Cedia wagon thing. Normally they are 4 stud, but the Ralliart's are 5 stud with a very similar knuckle design.

I measured the strut mount hole spacing (the two bolts at the bottom on the strut) and it's the same, but at some stage Mitsubishi changed to bigger bolts. The lower ball joint is different too, it's the clamp on type rather than the tapered hole type. But appears to be in the same place. Figured I could hopefully find a balljoint to suit.

The driveshaft splines are identical as well.

What I didn't think about is that the upper mounting point from knuckle to strut is also slightly thicker by only a couple of millimeters, so my Lancer strut won't fit. A bit more research and I found that this might be the case with the Evo 4 onwards anyway. So I guess either use coilovers for an Evo 4, only the front. The back won't work, but could possibly use Evo 1-3 rears.

Or maybe try find a complete Evo 4 rear which would solve the 5 stud for the back.

These Ralliart's normally have 276mm rotor's like the non-brembo Evo 4. But I plan on fitting the bigger 294mm and make some adapters to fit some GTO 4 pots which I have not bought yet but hopefully can. That way it should still fit within 17" wheels so will be able to use wheels I already have.

Here is a completely unrelated picture of a steering wheel puller I made to get the stock wheel off of the 4wd Lancer, to swap only the Fwd Lancer that I will sell. The bugger simply would not come off otherwise.

So I can now keep the Momo and boss kit that came with the parts car/fwd Lancer thing.

I'd originally made it to pull the timing gear off of the 1jz.

1 hour ago, kpr said:

If it were  some kind of issue with the injector coil  like you suspect.  that could do all sorts of silly stuff with the dwell time.  so no, or next to no fuel could have been coming out on idle.

what was wrong with the xpurt injectors?   Thought about running unmodified bosch injectors?

The Xspurt 1000's appeared to be spraying directly on the very wide port divider killing atomisation and causing it to blow black smoke in higher rev's on the dyno. The factory injectors (and these 3sgte ones) have a nice 4 hole cap which sprays it down the ports at the valves instead of the centre. Using the 3sgte ones made it run better everywhere.

Apparently the Xspurts work well on plenty of other engines though.

I've had thought about unmodified Bosch injectors since they'd avoid the problem of spray pattern, but it looks like I can get some new genuine 3sgte ones for a decent price which would go straight in and still support 300kw's.

Well 2 injectors tested 8% and 10% lower than the other 4. One of those was on the melted number 4, so that has to be the cause.

Spray pattern is good, but flowing less.

Still doesn't explain the low load misfire behaviour .

They are 3sgte 550cc injectors from a Caldina GTT, well two sets. Both used.

Weirdly, it was noted that the plastic housing is starting to crack on some of them where the coil is inside the injector. Whether this is the problem, I don't know, it's like they got hot. I think one set of injectors has had a hard life previously because the actual colouring of the plastic is faded.

I still have the Xspurt injectors but they didn't work well on this engine. The factory pintle cap with 4 holes divides the spray pattern properly and worked much better. So I think I will try get some brand new 3sgte ones, it is tempting to go for a different brand of aftermarket ones but they all seem to be decapped so will be like firehoses just like the Xspurts.

Went to pick a part to get interior trim for the 'parts' Lancer so I can sell it and they've removed all but one of the half dozen Lancers like mine. Which is a pain.

The last one was a manual so took the trim I needed and decided I might as well grab the manual pedals etc for the 4wd Lancer.

As I was taking the pedals out the fork lift guy came down the isle and I'm pretty sure he had no idea I was in there because he stopped when I popped my head up. He agreed to move it around the corner until I was done, it was just dumped on the ground but didn't really matter.

I was going to take the shifter and cables but they were rusty due to a smashed windscreen so I just grabbed the pedals and clutch master. Will keep a look out for another one to turn up.

It was a low km's one too so grabbed the cluster since I needed one for the parts lancer since I'm using the white face one in the 4wd lancer.

On 28/08/2022 at 14:30, kpr said:

someone doesn't like the metric system.    but looks ballpark,  long as there aren't any other compensation or 4d maps adding to it. 

All the stuff from the states is super expensive atm, prices gone up and bad exchange rate.     Looked into any of the jap brands?   quite a bit cheaper getting stuff from japan if there's an option worth considering

Haha yes I didn't notice to be honest.

I had checked the other settings and they aren't in use. 

Waiting on results for injector testing, needs fluid first. Not really sure what to expect.

In other news, I've just spent a large chunk on some CP pistons and head studs. Good to be a step closer to getting it back on the road.

Have been working on getting some other cars ready to sell (Celica and Lancer) so I feel a bit better about the cost...

3 hours ago, Roman said:

Does the fuel gauge change scale when it gets low on these? 
I had Digi dash on the Z10 soarer, and once you got to below about 1/4 of a tank, from memory the bar went back to full (or something like that to show you more detail of low tank) 
I was driving it once with 1 bar left, and figured "there's always a bit more in the tank" 
When the last bar disappeared, the car conked out almost immediately haha. 

What's the plan with the new motor(s) @Truenotch? Planning to get one in the hole before the coming season? Or just whenever they're ready. 

That's interesting! I don't have any memory of it doing that so it probably didn't, it was a 1983 model so pretty early digital stuff I guess. 

20 minutes ago, Truenotch said:

Daaamn! I've only ever seen your car in tiny avatar pics, so it's cool to see bigger photos. I reckon the colour is pretty similar to what I've gone with. 

Love the interior pics too. There's something magic about a zenki GT Apex interior. 

 

I got mine almost exactly 14 years ago. It's crazy to think it's been that long eh?

Yeah I loved the interior, the seats had all kinds of adjustment too.

Also the digital dash worked perfectly, was kind of funny having the fuel gauge measured in thick bars. Not super accurate...

Pretty sure the digital speedo didn't read any higher than 180kph too haha. 

Anyway, that's enough of my old car haha. Yours is really what I wanted mine to look like, especially the front bumper. N/A power is really what these car's should have, the supercharger was fun but a screaming NA is just better.

On 10/08/2022 at 17:20, kpr said:

 

 

Any  chance we can get a screen cap of the ignition map?

 

 

 

Sorry kept forgetting to grab the old laptop with the last saved tune. This isn't directly off of the ECU but I don't think it will have changed from this.

Update on the engine is that it has been measured and it is just over tolerance so really should be over bored, can probably get away with stock size pistons but the best will be to go with oversized pistons. So 86.5mm

Am now trying to find a good price on some CP pistons, then will get the block machined based on those.

47 minutes ago, Truenotch said:

Cheers @~Slideways~

It looks like a similar colour to yours if your profile pic is accurate. Do you have any pics of the old AE kicking around? 

Yep I'll have some photos at home. That is it on my profile, that photo must be from the mid 2000's though.

Fuck yeah that looks fucking awesome! 

I used to have one of these, had it painted bright red too, but it was orange. 

Those arches really suit it too. 

On 10/08/2022 at 17:20, kpr said:

 Was more meaning like in this picture rather than number 2.      not the scratches  but the textured look.      should be able to look up and compare to some pictures what it means. 
this is one of the mains i assume?    number 2 looks like something else again

 

Either way it looks like it was knocking right up until failure, the way the piston is so clean in damaged areas.   weather that was due to some previous damage. causing oil contamination in that cylinder.  or a fuel/ignition advance issue is the question

I'd do a roman  dave milk bottle injector test.    That will test the ecu, injectors, wiring at the same time.    give the loom a good jiggle around in the process, see if any injectors play up.
would work just as well / better than sending everything away to be tested

Any  chance we can get a screen cap of the ignition map?

 

 

 

Will get back soon with some photos of the ign map.

Have been looking at images of bearings for far too long now...

On 11/08/2022 at 00:11, fuel said:

*dumb GDI pistons*

Yeah no definitely not, my original plan was to get a SOHC 4g93 short block from pick a part which would have been around $100 (and hours or stuffing around in the mud) and I wouldn't know if it was good. Then aftermarket rods and pistons since it is the main issue with even the GSR 1.8 turbos. 

From what I understand the crank is the same across the 4g93 range.

But I came across this GDI engine for so cheap it made more sense. Basically its a donor for a block and crank. Possibly some ancillaries.

I did entertain the thought though that these high compression piston could actually make for a good N/A setup using the Mivec head.

2 hours ago, Roman said:

I had an injector driver fail on my ECU - the mosfets fail "on" so its easy to test if its happening. 
Because it will just hose out fuel constantly. 
If you plug in an injector while the ECU is on, without engine running.
If it makes a click noise on number 4 then the injector driver is chooched. 

If you have been having issues with low voltage, and your injector deadtime table isnt compensating then it could definitely cause issues. 
From 14v to 10v your injector deadtime could be 30-50% larger.
This makes the most difference at low load, but could definitely make it run a bit lean at full blast too. 

Even if your deadtime table was correct, if you had low voltage issues causing your fuel pump to be less... pumpy. then you could be running lean as well if fuel pressure was dropping momentarily. 

 

Definitely worth testing, I'll wait till they are back from testing etc.

That description does kind of match the intermittent misfire problem where it would happen at low load then go away it you let it drop down to idle, but I am sure I've been over logs and the voltage was fine. It's all in pieces now though so will press on with at least making a rebuild plan as well as trying to test all possibilities for the failure.

17 minutes ago, GARDRB said:

The other day when we were cruising around Zebra there were two turbo colts there, I hadn't been so excited about a mitsubishi in a long time. Is this a cedia motor?

This engine will be the Cedia/Ralliart wagon type thing. Weird high compression, small turbo, direct injection, plastic intake manifold weirdness.

It'll have tiny rods and high compression pistons so really wanted it for a good low k's base to build a Mivec turbo 1.8

Those turbo Colts look pretty cool, they are 1.5l though so not much use in this case.

Picked up this 4g93 GDI turbo for a really good price. I guess they are simply not sought after engines. The GDI's were a bit of a disaster really, but the block and crank should be good since it is a clean low km's engine.

Plus handy to have spares and different variations of brackets for alternator/PS pump etc.

44 minutes ago, Truenotch said:

That piston's had a big old lean moment eh. It reminds me of the time my Beams leaned out due to low battery voltage and had a big moment at 8000rpm. My issue was caused by an issue with my alternator wiring causing a lack of voltage, which combined with batch injection, caused bad things to happen. 

I'm going to throw in my theory that your fuel pump supply might still be a problem? Either a bad connection or undersized wire, which would also explain the melted fuse - I've had fuel pump fuses melt exactly the same way because of undersized wiring. 

 

That does look very familiar!

But on the fuel pump, it has a big dedicated power wire directly from the battery through a relay. Way bigger than the factory wiring etc. I checked the fuse a few times after that happened and it showed no signs of burning again, although I had crimped it down so the connection definitely has good contact. I'm pretty sure now that it was caused by a bad contact.

The thing that gets me is that there doesn't look to be any damage to the other pistons, just number 4 and it is serious damage. Possibly long term, is its is likely a long term problem there.

It has been suggested that it may be an injector driver fault with the Link g4+. I've been told of a similar story where an RB filled a cylinder with fuel after having similar misfire problems.

Right now I'm working on getting the block ready to be measured and see if it needs over sized pistons or not. Then make a list of everything I need and figure out the best place to source them. There look to be supply delays on bearings etc. Will go with genuine Toyota headgasket etc though.