~Slideways~

The type x bumper light fittings arrived from the states. They are designed with both position light and indicator in one (factory is just park/position lights), perfect for what I wanted. Except they supplied 4 clear/white leds and no orange ones. Its not like you can fit all 4 of this type either, they are all 4 prong type and there is a 3 prong type meant for the indicators. Have emailed the supplier and sent them this photo after I had emailed saying they hadn't supplied the right LED's: I get the feeling I'll be going to Pick a Part to see if I can find something with the same plug type and just use an orange bulb since US shipping will take ages and they need to check with their suppliers.

Sweet! Ordered one already, thanks.

Quick couple of jobs over the weekend. Cut and filed holes to fit these guard indicators, they were off a Primera at Pick a Part: Wheels are a bit too wide on the front, not sure what I'm going to do here re: cert. I really want a set of 17x9.5 +18 RPF1's but they cost money. Cleaned the dust off it, was going to test drive and lost the clutch pedal. Looks to have a leak. Yay. Might need a new line. Attached the Apexi SAFC II to the dash. The dash looks like crap because it go dusty from bath room renovations, wiped it down and it dried looking terrible... will try some leather cleaning stuff I have somewhere. Have ordered: - Type-x bumper lights, after market ones that combine the position and indicators into one. - Spark Plugs, one heat range colder than stock. - Driveshaft loops, universals ones that I'll modify to fit. Might still need to order: - Dakota Digital speed correction once I test out the nissan speedo with R154 sensor. - A million things more. Looks like work will mean I can't get to this track day, plus its asking for trouble not having any opportunity to test it before going on the track. So I've decided to concentrate on getting it certified and on the road, that way I can find any issues and get the SAFC tuned on some private roads. Then find out how the clutch handles what ever power it makes etc etc.

Yep that was the plan until all local suppliers in the area were all like *sharp-intake-of-breath-through-teeth* "sorry mate nothing like that", the thread and size isn't common. Plus there is an over hang over the female thread too so it would need a spacer. Next option was drilling and tapping it but the over hang makes it hard and there isn't much alloy there to go much bigger. Then I took it apart and semi solved the problem. Stainless steel banjo's are stupid expensive too!

Wasn't happy with the location of the hose inlet on one of the wastegates being too close to the turbo exhaust housing and only the top outlet ones can be moved. Ideally I'd take the manifold off and redo wastegate position but thats a shit load of work. If I have another reason to take the lot off later I will redo that bit. I couldn't find a 90deg barb option so I took the wastegate to bits to see if I could spin the bottom part of the housing. Turns out it's a symmetrical set of three bolts so it could be turned for a better position so, cool one less thing to sort out. It's much better but not ideal because it puts the hose barb above the wastegate outlet, way less heat but I'll still put in a bit of shielding.

Fixed play in the clutch pedal, it was because the holes for the clevis pin were larger than the original one. Swapped the rod end piece with the old one and all is good.

The CCC one on Sept 22nd I think, I'm trying my best to get it ready but only have so much time.

Not very exciting jobs completed but needed to be done/ Installed new Motobatt AGM battery, used the tray and bracket I made for one of my old cars: Also added some p-clips every 25cm on the cable. I vaguely remember there being a requirement for every 30cm but couldn't find it again...so 25cm it is. Floor is dusty from sanding etc. Installed short clutch master, bled it etc. There is a bit of play in the pedal before it moves the rod so need to adjust that. Much better clearance off the downpipe now:

No worries it's not really spam when talking about the topic. Plus this car isn't old school enough to have it's own discussion thread anyway

That's not too bad, I already have a fancy gearbox mount but its an option if needed. I only just got back into working on my projects again and had a long list of stuff to get done with a vague idea of maybe getting it to a state that I could trailer it to a track day in September for some testing.

With all of the work I've done to the car, these mounts were the last thing I thought I'd need an OK on, my bottom is quite comfortable, in the scheme of things its an easy fix if needed. As soon as it was pointed out they might be a problem I started looking into it. I know how difficult cert's can be I've used one of the more 'difficult' guys in my area twice now (about 10 years apart with totally different kinds of vehicle) and I fixed what needed fixing and was on my way.

It's annoying when there is no price listing! EDIT: found ebay listing. Almost $500 including shipping...jeez.

I wonder if these would fair any better? https://xcessivemanufacturing.com/nissan/240sx/sr/engine/xm-universal-universal-hardware-uh-umm-s3.html

Balls. Thanks for the info. Well I have some options at least.

What are you thoughts on engine mounts like this? I've been told some have been failed but I found this LVVTA forum post saying there are ok. http://lvvta.proboards.com/thread/521/solid-engine-mounts

I totally agree, it seems it's down to the certifiers opinion. So I guess I'll see. I've been through 3 different certs but never with a mount like this so I will leave them in and see what they say.

So is your mum. haha. Also, which part is contradictory? The bolt going all the way through? If so I was just referring to the LVVTA doc stating having a through bolt to stop engines running away.

Also this link to the lvvta forum from a week ago seems to say they should pass: http://lvvta.proboards.com/thread/521/solid-engine-mounts And compared to the factory mounts, they are single bolt top and bottom separated by rubber, I'm not sure if they can actually split/pull apart but having a through bolt makes more sense. There is a crush tube in there with some space on each end for flex.

Well that sucks if that is the case... EDIT: I'm reading an LVVTA doc now and can't see a problem yet (I'll change them if I have to though). Do you mean its an issue because the bolt goes all the way through? Wouldn't it come under this: 2.2(3) An engine mount fitted to a low volume vehicle must be designed and constructed in such a way that upon failure of either one or both of the engine mounts, the engine weight could not cause the steering system to become jammed or affected by engine weight, which may include either: (a) an engine mount chassis or sub-frame bracket designed to prevent the engine from dropping; or (b) a safety-type engine mount that features a through-bolt that prevents detachment of the mount upon separation of the rubber from the backing plate; or I mean it is what it is so if they won't pass then.... balls.... but the doc also talks about where 'solid mounted' it basically just needs to be strong enough.

Fitted the front lip and bumper end jobby things: Short S14 style clutch master cylinder will give me good clearance to the down pipe compared to the original one: Passenger mount installed (yes that shield is lime green, it was like that when I got it as a rolling body): Drivers side mount, because you need two:

Awesome thanks cert man.

I've searched and can't find this being discussed. Can you tell me what the story is with making your own 'bumper bar' or 'bash bar' as some call it. I have a 1991 200sx (non abs and 20+ years old) with no internal front bumper bar (the metal behind plastic/fibreglass bumper). I want to either fit a factory one which might need cutting anyway, or make one out of bent tube to protect the intercooler etc. The below makes me think its a none issue as long as it isn't designed to impale people (I intend for it to follow the inside contour of the bumper). In fact it sounds like I don't actually need one? All I can find in LVVTA docs in this: Bumper bar (removal and change)  the vehicle is not required to comply with a frontal impact occupant protection standard (see Frontal Impact note on page 1). Note: Bumper bar means either the structural part inside a plastic bumper or a complete metal bumper as used on older vehicles.

I still had the SR20 engine mount which probably aren't up to the task, definitely a bit soft anyway. So I got some like these, random google image because I didn't take any photos: They come with 4 washers each so you can adjust the height. It took 4 tries to get it perfect but its good now. Passenger side is easy to get to and lift the engine enough to get the old mount out. Drivers side was a bit cunty. - Had to disconnect the exhaust at the bottom of the downpipe to stop it hitting the floor when lifting the engine. - Then found I had to remove the clutch master to get enough clearance for the 3.5" downpipe to move up enough with the engine (much easier than removing the downpipe). - Actual access to the mount was ok, my design of the exh manifold and wastegate pipe leaves enough room. I had to try with and without the washers because there was a bit of compression in the mount when bolted down and the space between the front of the sump and the sway bar is very close. But it's good now, just annoying to redo it multiple times. I was never too happy with the distance between the downpipe and the clutch master, I've found now that an S14 clutch master should fit and is much shorter. So have ordered one now. Also ordered heat shielding stuff still to arrive. And another Motobatt AGM jobbie since the old one died, I was going to look at lithium but I found this one for a good price. Just have to remember to isolate it. No photo's, I'll take some later so its not just a bunch of boring words.

It's been ages since I've been able to doing anything in the garage but I recently started wiring in the doors, fitted the door cards, mirrors and sill trim. Starting to look complete now. I even have a fuel filler flap.

Interesting idea, but a container might be a bit narrow depending on what you want to paint?