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What year is yours @Muncie?? Mines a 1999 Gsix.. found a couple of drive belts last night in the box of bits that were with the Kirby.. got it working for the first time in 15 years or so. I've got a plastic caddy with a heap of attachments, a flexi hose and the wet carpet cleaning head. Thought there was more attachments, but they must of been thrown out over the last couple of house moves.

I really need to give it a Autosol like you did.. mines looking like it's been sitting outside under a tree for 10 years.

I got a Kirby in the garage.. just need a new drive belt for it.  Got a few attachments as well.  Must dig it out

Just saw this on Facebook for sale again..  no stickers tho...

Ill have a look tomorrow at what's in the spares bin at work.. pretty sure there's a few that should do the job.

I know there's a fuller set there, but not sure if it's imperial.

I got a bottle washer setup. Best thing I ever made.. pulled most of it apart when I moved, and never put it back together.

I used to use a single flute end mill for ACM on the CNC Router that I ran for a few years. Spindle speed was up there from memory.. over 20000rpm, and feed rates were about 1800mm a minute. 

Go see Nick at AutoTints, 4d Clemow Drive, Mt Wellington.. good cunt, I've known him for years, and is the best at tints in auckland.. im getting my Colorado done there in friday

Were these from pokeno??

Never heard of freezing it first.. and I machined the shit for 16 years. Depending on the hardness, then tool steel is the best To use.

If you go see the boys at LEP in onehunga, they will look after you.  Plus they pour polyurethane there, so if you had originals, then they can make a mould from them and then pour as many as you like

5 hours ago, oldrx said:

Nice, i have some needle nose vice grips that I might be able to get to work, will have a go anyway. I bought a MIG about a year ago, havent turned it on yet 

I would guess, that needle nose vice grips, wont have the strength to stretch the pipe. They are pretty weak, once you try and grip on the very tips.

I have 1/2" and 3/4" crox tool in my van, if you are anywhere near Drury..

Looking good.. 

May I suggest that you get a fire going in it as soon as possible. You are going to need to set the paint well, before its first use.. the smell from the high heat black is pretty horrendous. It will burn off tho, and then you will be all good, till next year, when you will need to paint it again.

Also check on the can, but with the pot belly black that I used from bunnings, it said that you have to recoat within 16 hours, otherwise leave for 7 days then recoat. I didn't follow the instruction when I painted my spit, and it all bubbled off in the first burn.

1 hour ago, KP_wag said:

Lovin the exhaust, what ya got planned for the christening? 

Cheers man, not sure wat to do yet.. I've got a couple of mutton roasts in the freezer, from some old girl I knocked off a few months ago.. may try that, or go the standard ribs or brisket. 

It's been running for 10.5 hours so far.. and its been pretty consistent between 250F and 270F.. had it cranked up to 435F for a bit, just to try and set the pot belly black paint.

Just chuck a foot valve on the suction side of the pump.. that way you wont loose prime

2 hours ago, 64valiant said:

Oh man. That would be so legit. 

 

After something around the 1.8 - 2 meter mark.  

 

Let me know how you get on. 

Hey I got 3 lengths @ 2000mm here.. got surface rust on it, but that's easy to clean off.. your welcome to a piece if you still want it.. I'm in Drury, so may be able to get it on somebody going down your way, if somebody is..

How much do you need for the axle?? I got a couple of lengths in my shed of 50 x 50 x 6mm wall.. perfect for welding stubs into

If you are in Auckland, go see LEP Engineering plastics in onehunga.. they cast polyurethane in sheets from 3mm thick.. will have a heap of off cuts on the shelf..

Otherwise, I will see what I have at home..

9 hours ago, UTERUS said:

Awesome, I love 70 series cruisers. 

You know about body lift being Wof fail? I was going to but didn't want another thing to add to the fail list. 

Since when?? I thought you could do a 2" lift before it became a cert job.

I never had any problems with a 2" body lift I did in my pajero, when it came to wof's

I've asked about bmx bikes, thru my brother who works for avanti..  if your still keen on some, I will let you know what happens.

I thought as much.. there isn't much info about them being fit to vehicles

I've been reading on the net, about suspension lift kits for the new Colorado's.. something along the line of these...

https://www.perfectlift.com.au/holden-colorado-rg-2012-lift-kits-PLK-9003E

What's the legality of these in NZ? And will it need to be certed??

Yeah I used to work for a company that specialized in polturethane.

Problem with polyurethane is that heat and oil/grease can break it down quite quickly. Plus the lower the shore hardness, the softer it is, so it becomes easier to tear. The sheer strength disappears. Elasticity is still there tho.

Also, you would have to send your parts in to be made. Supply a mould etc, as nobody will supply the raw materials for you. The curative is a massive carcinogen. And very explosive. Plus for the lower shore hardness grades, there is s 16+ hour cure time at 90 deg C.

Silicone and latex are both pourable at home, but I would say that they will have the same problems as low shore hardness polturethane. Poor strength.

I would go see Steve a Plus Plastics in East Tamaki and have a chat to him. He's a bloody good guy and probably the most knowledgeable in the field. I used to work with him, and i still send all my work to him, even tho I worked for his opposition.

Any other questions, the  dont hesitate to ask.

Cheers Blair