sheepers

yea cheers for the heads up. i may put a new radiator in it. i have no idea what state the current one is in, ill know more when i change the condenser. it "looks" like the water pump is fairly recent but again, for what its worth ill probably just put a new on on it.

what next? ive ordered most of the stuff to replace the AC system because it doesn't work as well as id like. coming from rock auto is a new compressor, condenser, TX valve, drier and a full o ring kit. other things to do include a new stereo, full oil and filter change, order a bunch of clips and bits from Amayama, new steering wheel (current one is through to the foam at the top so wont get a warrant like that) probably new front seats? and if i get really carried away i may paint it. i purposely bought a red one because it would be the most sun fucked (read, cheap) and I'm keen to paint something that doesn't require 8 months of rust repairs and panel work before painting. time will tell if i ever get around to doing this or not......

So, what am I going to do to it? First thing I did was clean it because it was fucking gross. Think used chewing gum in the door pockets, center console full of dried moldy coke, at least a full medium fries down the side of the seat and LOTS of dog fur. I took the whole interior out, including the headliner, and scrubbed it. The front seats are pretty bad and I'm trying to buy some others because they're so gross I don't think cleaning them will do much. One of the seat mount captive nuts was broken so I made up a plate with a nut and welded it in.

I needed something to get building materials and generally haul shit around with. I had an 80 series when I built our last house and it was invaluable for getting shit done, should have never sold it... Anyway, life story, get to the point. My new truck is a KZN185 96 hilux surf, turbo diesel. It's done 340ks which is up there but I've had a few toyotas with high Ks and it doesn't seem to affect them to much. This truck drives really nicely, even with the big tyres it doesn't seem to have that shaking vibration thing that modern rangers etc have.

I made a thing to store firewood for the winter. The shelfs are for kindling and small stuff. Is 600 deep by 4.5 long by 2.4 high because that's the space I had. I need another sheet of ply for the roof but the rest of it is finished. I'm stoked with it actually.

@sleeektoy

Took me a minute to figure out what you were talking about. Those numbers were written in there before I moved in. No Fucking idea what they were used for tbh

I would be there except only having 7 minutes notice meant id already planned something else. Hard to imagine I know but that's how it happened.

No steps forward, 10 steps back. Crank end float. Was having issues with the crank not having enough end float so I lapped a bit off the bearings and it didn't change. Problem. After a bunch of fucking around it appears that the center cap (which was from another engine, because the original center cap for this block was destroyed by the bent crank) which was line bored with the block did not have the thrust bearing faces machined at the same time. I can't get the cap to bolt down and have the thrust bearing faces line up top and bottom. So I've taken the whole thing apart again and it'll have to go back to the machine shop to get fixed. Cool.

copy paste so we can all have a laugh

I also was confused as to where the hairdryers and associated gubbins was. Sad face.

i finally got around to buying and installing a new clutch for this car. i chose today, the hottest day since records began coupled with absolutely zero wind to attack this job. which was sensible. the clutch was full of oil which is why it was slipping. i think the rocker cover gasket has been leaking and its been running down the back of the head and into the convenient cutout in the top of the bellhousing that was obviously designed to make sure the bellhousing could get all the oil it needs. so gearbox out, clutch and flywheel out, new rear main crank seal installed. then i resurfaced the flywheel in the lathe and put it all back together. just got the drive shaft to go back in and hook up the handbrake cable and its done. then ill put a new rocker cover gasket in it to and hopefully that should stop the clutch from filling up with oil.

I'm really just thinking that the extra load on the lifter ball and the extra spring pressure would need a bit more oil pressure to compensate. That's about it

yea na i didnt explain myself very well. they're not stuck, but the non return valve in the base of them is extremely efficient and once they have oil in the base of them they dont compress. im now clear on how they work and why i should be very careful with the pressure to the lifter gallery. when they are installed its assumed that they are empty of oil. so the fist time they see oil pressure they pump up until the cam follower is touching the back of the cam. the oil pressure can extend the lifter when the cam lobe isn't pressing on it so it pushes it up against the base circle, when the lobe comes around the non return valve inside the base of the lifter makes sure the lifter doesn't collapse and the oil pressure reg makes sure the lifter cant "pump up" the lifter and open the valve on the back of the cam. thing is that my calculations show that even something like a thinner or worn copper washer on the clamping bolt can influence the pressure by more than 5% so there must be some wiggle room for increases and decreases in the lifter gallery pressure. also - the factory manual gives no information on any settings, spring lengths or spring compression rates for the pressure reg. it just says clean it and put it back together. ill experiment with a little bit more pressure and see what happens, like i say i can generate oil pressure in the motor without the motor spinning so ill fuck around with it on the stand and see what happens.

is that a Gozzoomy?

i suppose i could? imma try it as is and see what happens.

lifter discussion. so Clint rightly pointed out (in the wrong discussion thread) that the increase in pressure or flow to the lifter gallery could result in lifter pump up. i thought about this and did some more dummy assembly and reading. the Toyota lifters dont work the same way as a conventional V8 style lifter. you dont pre-load the lifter in any way and according to the factory manual they should work at full extension at all times and if they compress any more than half a mm they should be replaced. the lifters ive been using to test things have a spacer in them so they cant compress and are extend to max length, that way the clearances and interference i was measuring would be the absolute worst case scenario. the thing thats interesting/a bit concerning is that the lifter is designed (as far as i can tell) to live its whole life at max, or close to max extension. in my mock up assemblies there is no clearance between the cam and the cam follower. so if things get hot an expand a bit in theory it will open the valve on the back of the cam. im a bit confused by this because everything in this collection of mating parts is stock. the base circle of the cam has not been altered, everything is as it should be. i cant see how the non return valve inside the lifter can bleed a bit of pressure to allow the lifter to shorten when things heat up and expand? maybe im over thinking it and it will all just be fine, as i say everything is stock so it must work somehow? ill have to test it as i continue to build the motor. one good thing about having the oil pump driven off a lay shaft is i can spin the pump while the rest of the motor is stationary. that will allow me to experiment with things and see if the lifter will compress with oil pressure behind it.

I'm not really sure how the lifters are supposed to work tbh. I "think" they're supposed to be fully extended at all times and kind of work like a shock absorber? At at fully open the rocker thing only just touches the cam so I don't think it could open a valve? Guess I'll find out....... Also this is the wrong discussion thread.

i was wondering if i could raise the oil pressure in the lifters just a bit to compensate for the heavier springs and increased ramp angle of the new cam. the 5M head has a pressure relief valve which feeds the lifter bores. ive never really looked at it in any detail but its got a spring and a big nut to holding the spring in place, how hard can it be? so i pulled it to bits and had a decent look at it. what i saw was worrying and left me with a feeling of no confidence with this doohickey at all. but i had to remind myself that it does work and they have worked for many years and they're not raised as an issue that ive ever heard. the problem is that the oil feed for the entire lifter circuit has to pass through a tiny hole, i couldn't measure it but it would be less than 1mm. so that's not very much oil flow. i couldnt open up the hole even if i wanted to so i just decided to settle for upping the pressure a bit. i did some science and figured out roughly what pressure the relief valve opens and its approx 7.6 psi. i was thinking of raising the pressure by about 10 percent but that calculated out at a shim about 0.4mm thick. but more importantly the errors in my measuring methods were more than 0.4mm. its pretty hard to accurately measure how much weight compresses a spring by exactly how much when you don't have anything but a vice and some weights. so after some thinking about it and calculating what different shim sizes would do i decided to add a 1mm shim which should see the relief valve open about 10 psi. fuck it, ill try it and see what happens.

Yea, I didn't see the link but I've watched her do it the hard way since she started in the car. She's doing a great job but if she'd have just fucking asked me before she started it'd be finished by now.

all finished. was a pretty messy job and took two days but its done now. i removed 400g of material from the ports. it will be interesting to see if it flows any better. ill get it back on the flow bench as soon as i can and see how it compares. fun fact, i ported one of these heads about 25 years ago and i cant remember how crazy i went with it (im guessing not very) but it made no difference to the motor at all. tbh that motor was a stock turd with stock intake and exhaust so porting it was a fucking waste of time but that was the style at the time. i think i planed the head to try to raise compression but that's a waste of time too given the stock piston design. ANYWHO, thats done. i took the exhaust from about 31mm to 37mm and removed a fair amount of material from the bowel, the intake went from around 31 to 38mm with the same stock removal from the bowel area.

ive sorted most of the clearance issues with the dash 10 crossover pipe but until i get a 4M sump i cant finalise everything there. so now its time to get on with the head. i needed to mock it all up again and remeasure everything because its been so long since i did it the first time id forgotten everything. so i put it all back together and checked valve piston clearance again (have never checked it with the actual oversized valves so it was worth doing) just to be 1million percent sure it was all going to play nicely together. no dramas with all that so that's good. what is a problem is the clearance between the spring retainer and the valve stem seal. currently there is negative 2mm which is about not enough. i need to machine the valve guide pedestals down so there is a gap between the back of the valve retainer and the stem seal. i reckon 3mm should do it. ill have to shorten the valve guides as well but that super easy. now i had reestablished all my measurements (and written it down this time....) all that's left to do is to do a rough and dirty port job on it. no sciences were harmed in the making of this porting job, i used the "hog it out a bit and hope for the best" method which has been used since the dawn of time. to some degree of success..... i actually have flow bench numbers for this head in totally stock form so once Ive finished butchering it ill re-do it and see if its made any difference.

the absolutely worst pile of shit clutch kit ive ever had the misfortune of having to deal with was from dellow. i wouldn't use anything from dellow even if you had my nuts in a vice. i would be checking EVERY detail if it came from those cowboys. sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

You could try giving it a cut. If you're only doing the roof it probably won't take toooooo long. Pacer products super cut followed by ultra cut then a decent swirl remover and you'll be golden

oh, its 1 trillion billion percent welded. i didnt realise you cant weld cast aluminium bits. its fucked in that case.