keltik

I'm immensely satisfied you got the right number of ruru between the ri

Have accounts with chase and autobend, happy to check trade pricing on any part numbers you want. Edit: same goes for any other supplier you can think of

I guess here's the appropriate bit https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-identification/vehicle-details Can't verify the plates match if you don't have them or the licence label.

The car comes in for a WOF update when it's sold, someone has registered the car but the admin team haven't physically got the plates to us yet.

I thought that was a thing but lately, the inspectors have been refusing to pass a vehicle if it's registered but the plates aren't with the car. Required for identification or something? But if not registered, then it doesn't matter

3 WOF related questions that the VIRM doesn't do a great job of answering. Looking for opinions from inspectors. 1) How rusty does a brake rotor need to be before it should fail. Assuming the cat still passes brake performance requirements. We're talking scabby rust and pitting from living by the sea. 2) On a vehicle such as a Mazda 3 which has a bump stop on the rear lower control arm but also has a bump stop on the shock shaft... Are both considered bump stops or is one a spring helper? The shock shaft one is a soft foamy rubber compared to the hard black rubber one on the control arm. 3) Slop or free play in the splines joining a 2 piece driveshaft together as found on the Ranger. There's no factory spec for movement and the only way to correct it is to replace the whole shaft. At what point is it going to be a fail?

Some kind of air spring could work. Perhaps using a compressor driven by otherwise wasted exhaust energy? No don't do that....yet.

Eventually views could fund it, but only after 4 years of advertising wallets, hello fresh and vpns.

I like the thought someone is going to find an oil filter housing lying in the road and try to piece together wtf happened.

Million dollar idea. oilyfans

Looking forward to this in 2025 judging by the current rate of 1NZ development.

I have to work in Rotorua this week so that killed my petrol budget for burgers. Perhaps next time chaps.

@johnnyfive or @brotherd or @stillway or @Vintage Grumble want an excuse to go have burgers like in the old days?

Yeah. Today's cruising oil temp was 110 rising to 135 under load. That seems a little spicy

Put some hours on the boat this summer. On my last outing, was trying to catch some other boats so had the throttle wide open for 10 mins straight. 5200rpm full noise. After backing off, the oil pressure plummeted and the engine tried to have a little soft seize. Coolant temp never got silly and oil temp is the one gauge I never finished hooking up. Hand on the sump told me it was fucking hot. After cooling it off and going easy for the rest of the day, it was ok. The next weekend, I went out again and had 100psi idle oil pressure rising to off the gauge at cruise speed. So this weekend, decided to have a look at the relief valve. Oil was pretty grot. The relief valve lives behind the oil filter housing in the middle circular bore. While I had it apart, tapped a home for my temp sender. And because it's a 3.8, the gasket was $8 and available easily. The relief valve had some minor scoring on it and some schmoo particles, I'm not convinced that was the problem but polished it up and reassembled. Ran it up to temp, I'll reserve judgement until it's been out on the water again but seems alright for now. I think a little modine style oil cooler would be a good idea. Kinda keen to build a new boat. I think this one has taught me enough to know exactly what I want and how I want it. But I also like not spending money.

Replace gear oil with ATF. Run some 0w20 in the engine. Replace tyre air with nitrogen. Purge all farts from body cavity before racing. Edit: Wonder if Mr @kpr has tested different engine oil and gear oil weights for effect?

Just moderately large bike stuff

I believe those m5 ones grenade constantly which is why they are so easy to buy.

Time to phone Julian Edgar and see if he'll lend you his gauges/books/wool Tufts/fly to nz and do a collaboration on shitty car aero

SmallCarStuff

I went into the cupboard and found a hat just so I could raise it to you sir. So it's as quick as a sr20det Hilux and faster than anything I've taken down meremere

Same stuff is currently sealing the exhaust manifold on my boat. Takes a hiding from heat pretty well.

No matter what the actual RPM is, being able to get the tacho needle off the dial is immensely satisfying. Making power is just a bonus Edit: Does the 1NZFXE have asymmetric rods to go with the offset crank? I'm remembering the Subaru EZ36 which dropped the crank 20mm and had pork chop rods to help make everything fit / reduce geometry issues

Went out with @brotherd to test his new motor. I made it half hour before the bad noises started. I took some bits apart and think it might be this? I guess I'll fix that and see if the noise goes away. Happy it didn't fire a flex plate and driveshaft through the bottom of the boat.

The road just kinda disappeared So had to back track in the support vehicles for an hour. Got the roast on now tho