keltik

Got the new springs in. Managed to bleed the brakes properly by unbolting the caliper and tilting the bleeder nipple to the top as it's in the 11 o'clock position when installed. Not sure why, but it tows a million times better now. No more banging the back end of the tow vehicle around - it just follows along smoothly. Went for a WOF and failed on front wheel bearings. Previous owner said he had done them but one was rust fucked and the other had no inner bearing cage left... Just powder. Replaced the lights with some of those Narva kits that have oring sealed connectors on the harness so there's no joins - you just plug it all together and cap off any connections not used with blanking plugs. Hopefully get the WOF issued next week when I can get it back down the local for a recheck.

We both know you should just be thankful the WOF inspector didn't find the massive amounts of rust. Don't tell me it's a Leone without rust, thats unpossible. I failed a WOF on trailer wheel bearings today... Which was a legit fail. Also had to do the brake test with a tapley meter because it was a braked trailer. Hitting the picks with 3 ton of boat behind you on a wet road with no ABS was mildly exciting. Anyways, he also failed it on a piece of angle iron tie bar which had been scalloped to bend it around the boat hull, but the cut scalloped section hadn't been welded back together good enough. It seems the VIRM is pretty strict/maybe overkill when it comes to which bits of a boat trailer are structural.

Semi related vehicle category yarn. I had 4 CX-9s in the workshop. All AWD, all the same spec with the same ride height and bumpers and visually identical. 2 of them were MA and 2 of them MC. WOF auditing inspector was visiting so asked him and his explanation was the rules are basically shit interpretations of old legislation that's applied by people trying to do their best..... And we all know it doesn't work 100% of the time. So yeah, not your WOF inspectors fault that 2 identical vehicles are different categories so your tints are illegal.

Pic for Fred. Only going to hit this position with all of the trailer weight on the front axle (curb or start of a boat ramp). Shouldn't happen on level ground unless I've done something very wrong. Now to deal with the weird ancient American hubs that have a sight glass and fill plug to run the bearings in an oil bath.

Ok so I found marks on the trailer frame where the front spring hangers had been previously so welded the new ones into that spot. Eyeballed the spring length and after welding was maybe 5mm out from where I wanted to be on one side which means the shackle is a gnats pube away from the crossmember at full compression. The other side was 15mm out meaning the shackle hit the crossmember at half bump travel. So had to grind out the welds and stick it in the right spot. Thoughts on adding a bump stop? Or some kind of rubber cushion I guess I won't know for sure till I hit some speed bumps. The new style hanger for the equalizer bar had a piece of angle iron welded in to limit travel. Since I reused my original one - I don't have this feature.

I've decided mig welding upside down is one of my less favorite things to do

Had to notch one beam but welded the spring hanger into the beam as well as the chassis to add a little strength back. I'm sure I'm worrying about nothing. Had 5mm height clearance going under my car port with the old springs. Stay tuned to find out if I can ever take the boat out again.

You're probably right. Fine. I'll do it properly

I could move the pivot point for the equalizer upwards closer to the frame which would constrain it's movement better and reduce the shitty spring angles

Was this; Planning on making it this; Ride height is similar between the 2 setups. I understand the correct way to set this up is to have the spring eyes above the equalizer bar but this introduces a few problems. 1) The axles would need to be underslung or replaced with gull wing type to clear the frame. 2) The rear spring eye hanger (to the left) needs to be moved 10mm further back... Which would require notching the crossmember it's currently mounted in. 3) The front edge of the equalizer has reduced articulation due to hitting the crossmember mounted next to it. Thoughts on doing it the easy way vs. doing it the 'right' way? Not overly relevant but the trailer frame bends downwards towards the rear from the equalizer bar hanger. So the front spring front eye is mounted a bit lower

Internets reckons 2.5t but I have no idea. Sounds about right. Feels a bit heavier than a typical car trailer. Will chuck it on the scale at work sometime.

The double eye springs also have less camber so the ride height should drop by 30mm which is very welcome. Can't get any lower without going to a pair of gullwing axles as the center would contact the framing around the hull at any decent amount of bump.

Trying to solve my trailer suspension issues. After much head scratching, I think I've worked out the problem. The trailer chassis was previously fitted for 50mm eye to eye springs with a standard 1390mm span and an equalizer rocker. It seems the standard spacing for eye to slipper tandem setups is closer to 1470mm. Because that's been crammed into the narrower space between the crossmembers (circled orange) the spring slippers don't sit in the right spot. So even if I moved the rocker pivot closer to the chassis, it would hit the crossmember located there... Which I don't really want to notch as it would significantly weaken it. It would also exacerbate the issue with the spring slippers contact points. So the fix is going to be swapping back to double eye springs.

Floorboards came up nice, just need some trim to hold them down. Took the grab rails off the coach roof and removed the white paint and petrified masking tape. So at least some progress is being made

Ripped the autopilot apart and found a broken coil wire on the compass module. Spent an hour with tweezers tying a single strand of wire on to extend it so it would reach the solder pad. Then used a multimeter to check all the coils and found 2 more broken connections. Spent an hour trying to repair those then remembered life is frighteningly finite and smashed it with a hammer so I wouldn't be tempted to waste any more time on it Ordered a new one from the interwebs.

Spent a day out on the water yesterday. Still had absolutely fuck all variable wind so failed at sailing. New motor runs well but discovered at low power settings, the stern of the boat doesn't squat into the water as much... so it's pretty easy for a wave or two to get the propeller shallow enough to suck down some air. Annoying. The trailer springs did their flippy articulation trick which caused all the weight to come off the front axle and lock the wheels under braking. Annoying. It's going to be hard to mount my fish finder transducer in a good spot. More experimentation required before I'm 100% sure where it needs to go, thinking it will go under the transom just ahead of the rudder but want to make sure the rudder won't interfere with the image. The lack of self tailing winches is a massive pain in the arse for 2 handed sailing. Keeping my eye on the tard for some second hand ones. The autopilot doesn't work. Powers on but wont pick up a compass heading.

Retrofit one of those ghastly electrically heated thermostats so you can run a high temp for efficiency on the road then heat it to open early on the track. Did Toyota run a thermostat with the electric water pumps?

Yeah that's exactly what it used to have. Not sure of the benefits of either style? Do I shorten the bracket or go back to double eye springs

I'm not happy about it

Had some outboard issues. With my bracket at full height, the prop still touched the water when under sail. Thats unnecessary drag! So I could've moved the bracket up a few inches and figured out how to deal with the holes in the transom... Or just swap it out for a short shaft version of the same motor and sell my one on. The new motor hasn't had much love. Time for a new impeller A new thermostat and plugs Don't think this motor had ever been apart, I did my very best but still managed to snap one bolt and spend the next hour sorting that out. Finally got all the salt scraped out and rinsed clean. I plan on taking the power head out at some point and touching up the paint. In the meantime it got a good long run in a wheelie bin full of salt-away and now the cooling water is flowing much better. Starts first pull too with the new plugs.

Started chipping away at some repairs. Got rid of the scabby hazey hatches covered in rock hard masking tape. Replaced with; Plenty of time spent with some wd40 scraping petrified making tape off various stainless deck fittings. Then got the missus down below to start painting the sides of the berths, put an epoxy coating on the bilge to stop stuff soaking in; Started varnishing some of the wood trim too Next task is to sort out some wiring and hook up my new sounder, chartplotter and solar panel.

GNs weren't made to handle that kind of precision. If there's no fag ash and sand in your crankcase, you're doing it wrong.

I'll come when you do. Double dutch rudder styles

If I was to swap the jag to S-Type coilover shocks. Changing from air struts to coil spring. The knuckle end of the shock is the same but pcd on the top hat is different.

Today's run up the Tarawera river was rather boring. Lots of reeds, floating debris, overhanging trees full of spiders and one big angry weir that was a bit too grunty for me to attempt. Managed to block the grate, lose steering going downstream and slam the back of the boat sideways into a stump. The steering cable pulleys mount right behind that dent so for the rest of the trip - the boat handled like a fucked old tractor as the cables went loose. Dunked the boat in at Matahina on the way home to wash the mud and salt out of it. Showed the misses the lovely waterfall that's appeared. Oil temps got up to 120 with a thrashing but would cool off much quicker than before. Good enough. That will do. I'm not changing it. I'm also not fixing that dent.