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d.p.n.s

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Everything posted by d.p.n.s

  1. #cletus I just copied this from a Ford page on using 200 rods and pistons in a 250. Yeah those numbers are spot on Dave, as you said it makes a better angle on the crank as the longer rods makes the piston dwell at TDC longer so the crank can be further rotated around before the piston moves down the bore giving it a better angle to push on the crank offset if you can understand all that. Its like haveing longer arms on the crank of your pushie, while you try and push down when the peddle is directly above the crank it gets significantly easier to push the peddle down the further you rotate that crank around.Also because the piston dwells at TDC and BDC for longer it also means the the piston speed is increased because it has less time to move down the bore if that makes sense lol.But like dave said its not really going to make any more hp if you fitted it into a stocker or even a mild xflow, its only the big reving top end xflows that will see the benefits.Take a look at the stroker windsors, a 351 clevo will make HP and not much torque, thats the nature of cubes, but the 347W will make a little less HP but more torque and thats because of the longer stroke to bore ratio.Plus the pistons are almost half as light as they are a lot shorter so your rotating assembly gets a lot lighter too.
  2. When I first spoke to the guy that I bought it off I thought he was trying to explain the way the motor is stroked using 200 bottom end . But now after doing some researh this is how I see it It gives a longer rod to stroke ratio. Meaning the piston moves faster in the middle of the stroke .it' supposed to free up torque around the 7krpm range
  3. just a quick 1. all mounts are made and engine and box mounted.(gear box mount bolt holes are stripped so may look at cuting the mout and welding more in.) got 2 x au diffs to play with .(just need to grab the cortina 1 of karl) both 28 sline and both 3.45 lsd. from what i have read i should be able to bolt the 3.45 lsd head into the aussi cortina diff and use the 2 short axles and then i can also use the au factory discs andclipers and that will also be the rear end in 5 stud.......fucking easy ay. ***( every chance this may not work)*** i had a davies craig water pump sitting around for years now so thought i would use it on this... so my water pump plate just turned up. all so thanks to #goat for the link to play with just need to cut more out now to make sure everything is going to fit .....then start welding it all back up. cheers
  4. haha it is strange to have motivation..... not really use to it
  5. thanks for the offer mate but they have been done...cut and on the way to a mate to try and make. but will pm you next time round. cheers
  6. so i managed to get the motor and gearbox mounted. sometimes i thing it is easier to make sump so i can mount the motor how and where i like.....but i did manage to get a factory 250 cortins sump and that 100% dictated where the motor sits.....there is a indentation for the swaybar and and another for the steering rack...and then you have a huge lump inbetween them for the oil pump. and then the rear bowl sump......i cut 2 plates to bolt to the motor and and then used cotton real mounts and cut doiwn 2.0 cortina mounts and welded them to the plates... as for the gearbox crossmember i picked it up from the standard cortina mounts and extended it back i have also dropped the ITBs and flacon sandwich plate off to have flanges made and cut chur
  7. hi all i need to get 2 different flanges made but i 1st need them in CAD . is there anyone here in chch that can help with this.....ie can i give you the 2 inlet parts and you do magic/witch craft to get them in to CAD.. cheer dan
  8. love coming home to presents that i bought myself..... this did come with a dirty big black spider that strolled out of the box........after i shit myself i gave it the jandal ...(no pics of that just a stain on cortina roof) just need to find some one that can cut some flangers for me and ill get in to it
  9. tried the 250 cortina sump on the motor and it fits perfectly ....then curiosity got the better of me and out came the grinder....... its just sitting in there for now but it fits . people that don't modify/build cars just wont under stand the joy seeing the gearbox shifter sitting in the factory hole.
  10. seats just turned up so huge thanks to @J-W-G for having the need to replace the interior in his mk3 and bring the door cards down with him as well as having some lights and grills i can use. and a huge thanks to @taiparacer for picking up and dropping of the front and rear seats for me.....legend .
  11. well fuck me i wish i hadn't started that ....it tricked me by one side coming off so easy .....but the other side.........was a bag of dicks but all sound deadening removed.
  12. almost got all the sound deadening off then its off to have the engine bay , floor pan and boot are to be blasted. curiosity also got the better of me so i sat the 250 cortina sump where it should be and man its a huge bitch.....just fucked off down the gearbox tunnel hahah.
  13. also found the wheels i wanted. 15x5 mondeo steelies. i wanted a 4 or 5 inch front wheel and then i can get the rears banded to fit the biggest i can under the rears.
  14. love getting home and santa has been. factroy 250 xflow cortina sump and pickup.(in perfect condition) and full EFI setup.(.just wanted the 3pin dizzy but for $60 for the lot i like to keep my options open) and more importantly 4.1 with ITBs makes me happy in the pants also found out a bit more about the motor its a xf alloy head 4.1 with 200 bottom end (strokes it out...but unsure of how much).head has had some inlet and exhaust port work and valves. the headers are huge..cam (dont know specs). torque tuned inlet with a 350 or 500 holly 2bbl.... lightened flywheel and 4 speed borg warner single rail box.
  15. Well my motor tuned up.Tickled up 250 xflow and borg warner 4 speed. (its a big bitch) 800mm from rear of motor to front edge of pulley..going to be a tight fit . .if i took 800mm from wiper motor to slam panel then it would have to cut just for motor.(then you have to take into account 70mm radiator and possibly intercooler). but if i cut som of the fire wall and move it back to the 1st egde then that will allow heaps of room.(have to move wiper motor over a bit.and make a heater out of factory parts.) but yeah its doable.
  16. so the motor of choice ticks a few box's for me. #1 all ways wanted an Aussie assembled mk3. so i went for the old ford 250 straight 6 alloy head.. this one has some extra goodies as it was built for a race car....so lumpy cam , headers , inlet manifold and holley carb.some other performance bits and a good old 4 speed borg warner...
  17. soooooooooo. i may have jumped the guy on building a burnout car...the more i clean this thing the better it is looking. there is next to no rust in the floor or engine bay. there is a seam split in the passenger footwell and thats about it. so yes im have second thoughts on the burnout car..... i might just clean it up and put it back on the road (without the pinto) anywho heres some pics. before clean
  18. i dont miss the salted road in the uk......use to have to hose the shit out of my motorbikes as well. heres my e30 318is that i bought thinking it was mint.
  19. my little girls and i watched the burnouts again out at muscle car madness and the questions started again ."why dont you build one dad" "how come we dont have one in the garage" "could mum drive it " hahaha. so i have deided to build this just for bunouts....it is just sitting there in the garage de registered and god knows how long it will be like that for..so i have a plan. i swapped it and themk 2 around and started cleaning all the shit out of it as i havnt really looked at it since i got it home. after removing all the shit and even vacuum clening it....to be honest not that bad.
  20. stripped down the old 205 block..standard bores ans all in all very good condition .still collecting bits here and there for the rebuild. my very good condition 2nd hand cosworth pistons arrived today..will go nicely with the eagle rods. my cosworth 2wd inlet manifold is on its way and i have a mate looking out for an oil pump pick and bore squirters from an rs500
  21. new well for me ... steering rack turned its from an avenger and i really want to say thank you very much to @The Dude for going above and beyond for me. you sir are a legend and they should be bottling your sperm/DNA/blood just in case the world goes to shit and they need to repopulate
  22. a wee small update on th old girl (picture less ) she flew throw her 2nd WOF in my possession... i also swapped th aftermarket hard as fuck engine mounts that shock evry thing to death out for the old factory ones in th mk3. so much better but the engine sat a wee bit lower and that in turn lifted the arse end of the gearbox and then that made the driveshaft rubber doughnut hit the tunnel.. so i spaced the gearbox crossmember down and man its so smooooooth and awesome to drive. i also swapped the heater motor out (chewed to fuck and on full tit vibrated like mad) for the mk3 motor...man the heat and silence is perfect. on a side note with the 5speed i am now getting just over 500ks of daily driving goodness to a tank of gas. so all in all still happy with it..(needs and LSD and 100 more HP)
  23. just a wee update. still daily driving it and all the maintenance i have done is a set of plugs.. but yesterday i swapped out the 4 speed for a 5 speed... to be honest i think i prefer the 4 speed but the 5th gear will make it nice driving back and forth to work. the throw on the gear stick was like rowing a boat so i shortened up about 20-30%. all in all. very happy
  24. Thanks again mate. Will just stick with steel then there shouldn't be any argment.
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