ThePog

http://www.tradeunion.com/ToplineProduc ... shank.html Even closer, third pic down.....

http://www.speco.com.au/accnuts.html they look like the 4th picture down on this page, but twice as long on the hex part..

Ok so I have a set of EDish Ford Falcon 15" rims for the mighty lux, however thick me didn't check the nut thread for the nuts that came with them were right which they are not. The nuts are some shit imperial size and the Hilux is M12x1.5 I think. Problem is that the nuts are about 70mm long, they have a 17 ish mm diameter shank that goes through the rims then a 45 deg taper that is the clamping/centering face. I found something that may do the trick at Ripco, but true to form they were $260 for a set of 20...... It is a 92 2wd double cab by the way. Anyone know the best place in Christchurch to source what I need? Ta Dylan

Build Thread - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21252-cylinderheads-1974-fiat-124/?p=545297 sweet car you got there - I had a silver CC as my daily driver for a few years, until the rust killed it. Man it was good fun tho. The headlight surrounds and grill look much much better painted black with a silver beading left in around the grill...... Doubling up the front sway bay tightens things up nicely too.

Hehe just had a look at your pics of the beast - didnt your Pa tell you never to buy a car without looking at it? Be worth it just for the engine tho....

4 x 98

I have a spare carb which I might slap on to see if it makes a difference. Thought it was the mechanical fuel pump, so fitted an electric one I had lying around - no difference there. The spare carb has been lying around for a while so might be a bit dodge anyway - suck it and see I spose

My Fiat twincam Ladawagon has been playing up - dying at low revs then ok for a few k's then playing up again. Seems to be worse immediately after I give it some beans. Someone else has suggested resetting the carby float level as it might be fuel starvation. Haynes manual is very sketchy on the details of doing this - anyone with some advice? Carb is a twin choke downdraft weber 34DMS. Have checked all the potential electrical problems - it all checks out fine.....

All it will mean is that the spring will have less travel and will bottom out easier. Spring stiffness is all about the elastic modulus which is basically the same for all steels no matter what you do to it. The only way to make a spring stiffer is to make it out of bigger diameter wire, or reduce the number of coils. Reducing the number of coils doesn't sound right but it is exactly the same as reducing the length of a leaf spring - this will make it stiffer.

Compressing springs will not change the rate, neither will hardening and re-tempering (which would have to be done by someone who knows how - just heating them up will just soften the metal and they will break). Cutting springs will increase the rate a wee bit, but is a bit dodge for getting warrants. Best bet is to find similar length and diameter springs with a thicker material diameter off something else....

This one is easy.... http://homepages.xnet.co.nz/~terrydylan/