ThePog

Fruitful discussions with the very helpful Mr sr2, it looks like the control valve is not moving freely right up and down the bore, and probably holding up the control diaphragm in the wrong place. You may recall the control piston was stuck in there, I hydraulic'd it out as part of the install today, but clearly did not clean the bore up nearly enough. Tomorrow will tell us some things.

So things are happening, but I have encountered difficulties. As sr2 is clearly the man who knows I have messaged him thus; 'Hi sr2, I have a question if that is ok. I took the old servo off the humber and as expected it was full of fluid.. Now I have fitted the MG servo and the brakes feel and work pretty well, however.... When I first put the servo on I messed up the reaction diaphragm position and there was a horrendous air leak into the system - the brakes locked on (in hindsight this was entirely expected). I sorted that and put the diaphragm back correctly, but the brakes are still slowly getting more pressure in the system and grabbing. I have checked the reaction piston is moving freely and the reaction diaphragm is seated correctly. I have also put hose clips on the pipe from the reaction stuff to the main chamber. I have also checked for air leaks with a tube. After the engine is off, the system holds vacuum pretty well, you can crack the air valve and it is clearly still under vacuum in there. What else should I be looking for?' The first drive was great, but then I got fully locked up brakes with the nose poking out onto the road which was lols for my neighbors driving past. Pics; Mars Likes it Servo goes here; As if by magic;

No no, I am thinking of the new, entirely functional servo, and how that gets bled etc....

So thinking about this was keeping me awake last night, but mostly cos I could not remember which side of the diaphragm the vacuum line was, and hence which was the inlet and outlet ports. So then I thought 'how does the fluid get past the piston and thus to the brakes when bleeding it all?' Then i realised the piston seal was a cup seal, so fluid can get past it on the way to the brakes... Am I right? And should i prime the cylinder as much as possible first to minimise the amount of air?

yea that is gold.... So I just went to check and both the front and back are going through the booster. Disc/drum setup and the booster bore is 5/8th. From what you are saying the 0.7" bore of the MG booster will be ok/provide more boost..? The MG booster cylinder got a hone and a missing circlip replaced today, the reaction piston is stuck in there but I suspect things will need to be hooked up before this will come out.

That is a great colour.

I might have needed to trim a bit right beside the bushes, yes. I think I sprayed it with underseal after to hide it from the wof man. Never had any wof issues with that.

No I stupidly sold it. It went to some uni boys and did the undie 500, I nearly bought it back then. It came up again on TM a few years later without the engine, dude wanted $1000 for it! I offered him $200 which was half what I paid for it with an engine and Wof/reg. He seemed grumpy with this offer. I have mostly convinced Sidewaysickness to buy one to use as a daily while his LTD is off the road, I would enjoy that. Just went thru your Niva thread, good stuff there.

1800 twin cams go hard and rev their nuts off, but as you said finding a sound one is a bit of a mission these days. I had a 124 sport with a 2 litre previously to the lada and that engine had about 1mm of piston gap and very gappy rings, it still went very well, just a bit slappy when cold...

I have a question about the effects of a bigger brake servo bore, deets here; //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49508-brake-servo-bore-size-effects/ I have stripped the MGB servo and the bore is a couple of mm bigger....

The remote servo in the humber is leaking so needs to be fixed or replaced... The bore of this is 5/8th of an inch = 15.875mm I have a remote servo out of an MGB that looks ok with a bit of loving, this has a bore of what looks like 0.7" = 17.78mm. Clearly this difference will have some effect on the brake feel and power, what will this be? In my head the bigger size will mean more applied pressure at the brakes themselves cos the servo will supply more pressure, but there will probably be a harder pedal feel..... maybe. Anyone got an opinion?

The standard engines can go really well, check out Lada VFTS.

Gearbox bolts and engine mounts unmodified, might have been some swappage but I don't think so.

Final incarnation, roller paint job with some quality timbercryl. Sorry for the thread jack

See the plate here Relocated fusebox Bracket mod Wrap to stop cooking the starter wires Stealth gauges, shitty stering wheel and cupholder. I put a Fiat 124 Tach in the hole where the temp ones etc were, even the needles were identical! Plugs inside the glovebox, fusebox was below this. Blinged it up with a TWINCAM sticker With the 14" rims on

Found some of mine on the photobucket Got Dick smith electronic ignition right there! I kept the Lada alternator, had to mod the adjustment bracket but no biggie. Lada Radiator. Was easyish to match up the exhaust but hard to stop cooking the starter motor and wires, pretty sure I put a shield in there. The starter sits on the other side with the fiat gearbox. Kept the Lada gearbox as they are actually pretty good. The Fiat engine has a water jacket plate at the back of the engine that gets in the way. This is the notch I put in the bellhousing to clear it. Pretty sure the Fiat flywheel etc needed no mods, apart from the notch everything just bolted up, I seem to recall some dicking with the clutch mech tho. Doubled up the front swaybar, this was easy, just needed to cut 100mm off the second bar and make a bracket to tie them together. Handled better after this. Put on 40 dellortos, Was great. Had to move the fuse box to the inside of the car for clearance. Will find some more...

I also have many photos of my twin cam conversion if you are interested, can chuck them up on a gdrive or sumfink...

Well then, the plot thickens. Firstly, when i tried to park it in my shed the first time it was dusk so visibility was marginal. I tried to back it in but the gravel slope was not helping, plus it started to piss out what looked like steam or white smoke. I then got it in forwards and the smoke cleared up on the flat. At the time I asked Jones and it had happened to him also, he thought the valve seals were worn and the oil pooling in the head when on a slope was the cause, meh I thought, no biggie... I talked to him just now about it with my theory and he says the smoke thing started about the same time the brake fluid disappearance started. I would bet money the booster is the culprit in all of this. Funnily enough one of the things we found in the workshop appeared to be a remote booster, I gave this to Alex/yoeddynz a couple of weeks ago thinking I would never have a use for something like that. I asked the previous owner of the business/hoarder what it was and he said it was off his MGB and was working fine when he took it off.... So Alex has kindly agreed to give it back to me, even if I swap it out as a temporary measure while I fix the original that will be extremely useful....

Yea it is remote, I will check once it is all bled and left overnight. I am guessing this might only show up with a bad leak tho. I have potentially found another car for parts, so if the booster in that is ok I might swap them out to see.

So Jones told me to keep an eye on the brake fluid, I though this was a slow leak or something but it is directly proportional to the amount of use. I realised this when the pedal went to the floor when i hopped in this morning, so a bleed is on the cards for tomorrow. Jones has chased this issue and replaced everything with new or recon parts except for a couple of the hard lines. There are no obvious leaks, but the shit disappears pretty quick. He had the vac booster rebuilt when he got the car, and my theory is that this is leaking a tiny bit and sucking fluid through when vacuum is applied - then getting burned in the engine. Any other theories before I start chasing this?

I have a brand new gearstick lollipop for you if you want it And I have heard rumours of evil plots against me and my car. All you have to do is ask nicely dicks.

I bought a company and the owner had never knowingly thrown anything away, This is some of that stuff. Everytime a bit of the workshop gets cleaned we find something interesting, last time it was a complete virtually brand new laser level set and an insinkerator. I have about a dozen gas regulators and the like, and we once threw away 10 broken grinders that were being kept as spare parts, also 3 or 4 broken broom handles. You get the picture.

Did a bit more today, welded the bottom panel to the inner one. I started making the patch panel but it was getting dark and i started rushing, so I stopped. The patch is just some 25x3 angle, but it will reform the lip perfectly, and tuck upwards behind the rusty bit. This means I will get a full bead of weld along the top and bottom. I cleaned out the lead as much as I could but I expect I will need to bog at least some of it which is unfortunate. I also wedged a bit of steel up behind the trailer connection hole and filled that up.

jesus you people.

As it happens I have pics from long age when it was debumpered, what do you reckon? Also bonus MS Paint photoshop;