ThePog

Maybe. There is a circlip groove in there for retaining the piston, but there was no circlip in there. Thinking on it tho the piston could not move any further back than it does already. I first assembled it with a circlip, but the seal washer stack behind it seemed too compressed so second time I left it out. Also the first thing after the circlip is a spring and there was no happy seating for it with the circlip in place. I have been thinking to put a heavier spring into the air valve setup to help the control piston return and equalise the vac pressure at idle. I have also just read that removing one of the two o rings on the control piston might free it up enough.. Checked all the piston stuff on the old servo and it looks ok, just need to go through the poppet valve bits. I shall push forward on both fronts.

Some fucking bullshit now, I bled the brakes, shit is still grabbing on. So I thought I would check out the other, old servo, had about half a liter of fluid in it. For lols when I pulled the vac stuff off the cylinder, the whole lot shot out across my dark and nook laden shed. Fucking fuck. I have collected all the bits and compared it to an exploded diagram and I think I have it all....

must have been grumpy, put my rant in the wrong place

Took the servo off, I figured I had better go through it again and make sure I had not bolloxed something more obvious Then I cleaned up the bore of the control piston with some 1500 grit and a pencil modified for the job of flappy holder thingy; That little arrow head thing is probably the issue, it is not moving up and down it's bore and letting the vacuum equalise with no brakes applied. There were some minor other things - There was a circlip that was maybe supposed to be holding the piston in (but wasn't there when I pulled it apart), I put one in but the extra stack height between that and the vac chamber had caused a washer thingy to deform a bit, so I left it out. Stuff cannot go anywhere anyway so i think this is better. I also replaced the bolt that clamped the two halves of the vac bit together as this was a bit stripped and probably not letting it seal 100%. I mounted it all back in the car but ran out of time and brake fluid, so bleeding will need to wait for another day. If this does not work I might need to look at sorting the old servo.

Already started the visual mods - paint stripping via liberal brake fluid application... Also Jones you fucking idiot, it no longer smokes when you start it for some reason.

You are such a dick Jones.

Fruitful discussions with the very helpful Mr sr2, it looks like the control valve is not moving freely right up and down the bore, and probably holding up the control diaphragm in the wrong place. You may recall the control piston was stuck in there, I hydraulic'd it out as part of the install today, but clearly did not clean the bore up nearly enough. Tomorrow will tell us some things.

So things are happening, but I have encountered difficulties. As sr2 is clearly the man who knows I have messaged him thus; 'Hi sr2, I have a question if that is ok. I took the old servo off the humber and as expected it was full of fluid.. Now I have fitted the MG servo and the brakes feel and work pretty well, however.... When I first put the servo on I messed up the reaction diaphragm position and there was a horrendous air leak into the system - the brakes locked on (in hindsight this was entirely expected). I sorted that and put the diaphragm back correctly, but the brakes are still slowly getting more pressure in the system and grabbing. I have checked the reaction piston is moving freely and the reaction diaphragm is seated correctly. I have also put hose clips on the pipe from the reaction stuff to the main chamber. I have also checked for air leaks with a tube. After the engine is off, the system holds vacuum pretty well, you can crack the air valve and it is clearly still under vacuum in there. What else should I be looking for?' The first drive was great, but then I got fully locked up brakes with the nose poking out onto the road which was lols for my neighbors driving past. Pics; Mars Likes it Servo goes here; As if by magic;

No no, I am thinking of the new, entirely functional servo, and how that gets bled etc....

So thinking about this was keeping me awake last night, but mostly cos I could not remember which side of the diaphragm the vacuum line was, and hence which was the inlet and outlet ports. So then I thought 'how does the fluid get past the piston and thus to the brakes when bleeding it all?' Then i realised the piston seal was a cup seal, so fluid can get past it on the way to the brakes... Am I right? And should i prime the cylinder as much as possible first to minimise the amount of air?

yea that is gold.... So I just went to check and both the front and back are going through the booster. Disc/drum setup and the booster bore is 5/8th. From what you are saying the 0.7" bore of the MG booster will be ok/provide more boost..? The MG booster cylinder got a hone and a missing circlip replaced today, the reaction piston is stuck in there but I suspect things will need to be hooked up before this will come out.

That is a great colour.

I might have needed to trim a bit right beside the bushes, yes. I think I sprayed it with underseal after to hide it from the wof man. Never had any wof issues with that.

No I stupidly sold it. It went to some uni boys and did the undie 500, I nearly bought it back then. It came up again on TM a few years later without the engine, dude wanted $1000 for it! I offered him $200 which was half what I paid for it with an engine and Wof/reg. He seemed grumpy with this offer. I have mostly convinced Sidewaysickness to buy one to use as a daily while his LTD is off the road, I would enjoy that. Just went thru your Niva thread, good stuff there.

1800 twin cams go hard and rev their nuts off, but as you said finding a sound one is a bit of a mission these days. I had a 124 sport with a 2 litre previously to the lada and that engine had about 1mm of piston gap and very gappy rings, it still went very well, just a bit slappy when cold...

I have a question about the effects of a bigger brake servo bore, deets here; //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49508-brake-servo-bore-size-effects/ I have stripped the MGB servo and the bore is a couple of mm bigger....

The remote servo in the humber is leaking so needs to be fixed or replaced... The bore of this is 5/8th of an inch = 15.875mm I have a remote servo out of an MGB that looks ok with a bit of loving, this has a bore of what looks like 0.7" = 17.78mm. Clearly this difference will have some effect on the brake feel and power, what will this be? In my head the bigger size will mean more applied pressure at the brakes themselves cos the servo will supply more pressure, but there will probably be a harder pedal feel..... maybe. Anyone got an opinion?

The standard engines can go really well, check out Lada VFTS.

Gearbox bolts and engine mounts unmodified, might have been some swappage but I don't think so.

Final incarnation, roller paint job with some quality timbercryl. Sorry for the thread jack

See the plate here Relocated fusebox Bracket mod Wrap to stop cooking the starter wires Stealth gauges, shitty stering wheel and cupholder. I put a Fiat 124 Tach in the hole where the temp ones etc were, even the needles were identical! Plugs inside the glovebox, fusebox was below this. Blinged it up with a TWINCAM sticker With the 14" rims on

Found some of mine on the photobucket Got Dick smith electronic ignition right there! I kept the Lada alternator, had to mod the adjustment bracket but no biggie. Lada Radiator. Was easyish to match up the exhaust but hard to stop cooking the starter motor and wires, pretty sure I put a shield in there. The starter sits on the other side with the fiat gearbox. Kept the Lada gearbox as they are actually pretty good. The Fiat engine has a water jacket plate at the back of the engine that gets in the way. This is the notch I put in the bellhousing to clear it. Pretty sure the Fiat flywheel etc needed no mods, apart from the notch everything just bolted up, I seem to recall some dicking with the clutch mech tho. Doubled up the front swaybar, this was easy, just needed to cut 100mm off the second bar and make a bracket to tie them together. Handled better after this. Put on 40 dellortos, Was great. Had to move the fuse box to the inside of the car for clearance. Will find some more...

I also have many photos of my twin cam conversion if you are interested, can chuck them up on a gdrive or sumfink...

Well then, the plot thickens. Firstly, when i tried to park it in my shed the first time it was dusk so visibility was marginal. I tried to back it in but the gravel slope was not helping, plus it started to piss out what looked like steam or white smoke. I then got it in forwards and the smoke cleared up on the flat. At the time I asked Jones and it had happened to him also, he thought the valve seals were worn and the oil pooling in the head when on a slope was the cause, meh I thought, no biggie... I talked to him just now about it with my theory and he says the smoke thing started about the same time the brake fluid disappearance started. I would bet money the booster is the culprit in all of this. Funnily enough one of the things we found in the workshop appeared to be a remote booster, I gave this to Alex/yoeddynz a couple of weeks ago thinking I would never have a use for something like that. I asked the previous owner of the business/hoarder what it was and he said it was off his MGB and was working fine when he took it off.... So Alex has kindly agreed to give it back to me, even if I swap it out as a temporary measure while I fix the original that will be extremely useful....

Yea it is remote, I will check once it is all bled and left overnight. I am guessing this might only show up with a bad leak tho. I have potentially found another car for parts, so if the booster in that is ok I might swap them out to see.