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Posts posted by Raizer
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Remove the idle mixture screw and blast out the hole it was in with carb/brake cleaner, should spray out a hole in the front of the carb as well as internally, they get blocked up a lot and give hunting idle.
Linkage doesn't directly control butterfly, I've had a couple that were either idle or max nang with nothing in between thanks to fucky governor.
Manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wRpU92lMIv2fV60NJvffIEXbKN9gMfy7/view?usp=drivesdk
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I still rate my BOC highly, it's called a 200 but it's actually 210A.
https://mytools.co.nz/products/boc-smootharc-tig-200-ac-dc?pr_prod_strat=collection_fallback&pr_rec_id=26b01ce58&pr_rec_pid=4459075469347&pr_ref_pid=4516669259811&pr_seq=uniform- 2
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19 minutes ago, Roman said:
How recently?
I called them as well as the place in Morrinsville, no bottlesTake your empty to them to get it refilled rather than swapped.
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2 minutes ago, SOHC said:
Thats the right ones, where is that place?
America, they are pretty highly rated on a couple hobby machinist forums I've been on lately.
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25 minutes ago, SOHC said:
https://bmpartstech.com/product/atlas-lathe-10f-12-half-nut/
Don't look quite right, but multiple sites show that as what you need
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Have wanted a DRO on my lathe for longer than I've actually owned a lathe ha!
Ordered a kit from MH over a week before I even picked up the LAM, just took almost a month to go from "at the port" to in stock and sent to me.
Cross slide scale wanted to block the cross slide and saddle locks, so took a page out of some Myford Barry's book of tricks and hung the scale behind the slide
And of course pretty much none of the brackets in the generic "lathe mounting kit" fitted, so had to make my own
Should probably make a better chip/splash guard soon.Edit: Took a couple cuts twice as deep as intended to realize it was in radius rather than diameter mode, got that sorted and touched off on a piece of 15.40mm, set the diameter on the display and took a .20 cut
Can't complain about that!- 21
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26 minutes ago, Muncie said:
That your driveway or neighbours?
It's his wife's car
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Changed from Barry approved sae30 oil on the old Challenger lathe to a proper slideway oil on my LAM.
So much better!
Used to use straight ISO 68 hydraulic oil on the machines at my old work, this stuff is a huge step up over that, has stickifiers added so it doesn't just run and drip off the ways etc.
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Would likely be 100 series (AXA) for the Optimum.
https://toolsnz.com/product/qctp-piston-type-tool-post-250-100-5pc-set/
Multifix style is def meant to be better, but for the $$ I've been more than happy with my Aloris clone, had it on 2 lathes now.
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1 minute ago, tortron said:
Have you seen whay myford do out the back of the spindle.
Turn down a but of rod to fit, then bolt on a gear with the number of teeth you want. Then something to detent them in place
That's part of the plan for mk2, just need to find a 150t gear now.
Absolutely could use a detent, few of the lines have a bit of a curve thanks to me trying to hold the chuck steady by hand haha- 1
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Compound dial has seen better days!
Then came this fucky set up
Made some new spinning handles too.Not perfect, but serviceable and has given me a lot of ideas to improve it in future.
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22 minutes ago, Transom said:
Is the cigweld 135 mig the same they sell at supercheap ? If so i had one it’s ok but upgraded to a newer inverter style mig and the difference is very noticeable also the cigweld 135 is not a replaceable binzel style hose / hand piece
They do a weldskill 135 inverter now too
For the money I'm very impressed with the BOC Raptor mig I got, it's a lot more capable than I am lol.
https://mytools.co.nz/products/raptor-160-mig-welder-10amp
Should have got the 180 though.
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Think I'd rather go used 3ph and vsd over the expense of rewinding/have found a couple new single phase 19x40mm shaft motors with matching mounting etc, but speed control is a big draw to me tbh.
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17 minutes ago, SOHC said:
Did you find a motor?
Not yet no, still weighing up options.
Pretty keen on 3ph + vsd tbh.
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Made my first parts on the LAM!
Crush spacers for inside the pallet rack frame
Racking is pretty stable, but it's not wobbly now!Finally got around to pulling out the tooling etc that came with it
The tub on the right there is 3 or 4 layers deep of HSS tooling!
Thinking the 4 jaw is the original Taiwanese one that came with the lathe, also think there's stuff for another lathe among it like the top slide with the huge tooling to match.And lastly for now. before/after
/I swear the sellers lighting makes it look better than before I started ha
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Bonus with Bunnings is if you ever run out of gas on a weekend etc they are open.
Also $118 for a D with trade card, $126 retail.
I was with BOC on the D plan ages back, but if you don't use your 2 full bottles in 12 months you've still got to pay the full year payment etc.
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MIGgas from Bunnings/other Coregas supplier imo.
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So close...
Figured I'd clean/replace the bearings to shut the loud ass motor up
Centrifugal switch was just floating on the shaft adding a high pitch scream and a clunk at start/stop.
Then @UTERUS pointed something out in one of my pics.
Fuck.
So now I'm on the hunt for a 19mm shaft motor that will fit in the hole....and yet so far.
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Got it figured out, just had to stop thinking in DC haha
Runs both directions and I even fluked it and got it matching the labels on the switch first try!
I'm telling myself that the lunch box cap housing is only temporary until I can get something a bit more legit, but it's likely permanent.
Some of my last chips on the Challenger
Turned down the big shoulder on the base of the new lathe's toolpost stud, also shortened it by maybe 3/4 of it's original height, then bored out the base and sleeve on my QCTP to suit the bigger od.
Starting to clean up pretty sweet!! IMO anyway, can still see the factory machining marks on the ways now I've got the crud off!
Got the change gears soaking in diesel overnight, was set up for imperial but I've got the metric gears ready to go.Someone put some $$ into chucks and tooling for it
Still going to fit my new 160mm Tool Master chucks for the extra size, but will attempt making backplates for the Japanese 125mm one day.
The one issue I have run into is there is a small crack on the bottom of the compound, gets real tight to turn the handle etc.
I can weld it no problem, but will have to figure out somewhere to get it surface ground after.- 13
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That was a cunt of a job, rona ain't helping either.900mm might have been a bit tall for the stand, based it off the 1000mm I saw in one of the manuals floating around online, either I'll get used to it or attempt to cut some welds and slide the top down a notch or 2 at some point in the future.
On 12/07/2022 at 18:51, Raizer said:Yeah 3ph and VFD is seeming more and more like a great idea, for several reasons, first the broken pulley could be ignored cause speed controller.
Second this motor is noisy AF, bearing inside is dry or fucked.
Third is I went to wire up the fwd/off/rev switch, switch install info is just this:
Motor I was expecting to find some factory number connectors.
Seemed simple enough...
Not a great start!
Then it got worse/Barry levels increased
Ummm help?
I don't do mains power, I barely know enough to be dangerous let alone sorting out that!Blasted it with foaming de-greaser and SCA multi purpose lubricant and left it to sit overnight, if I've got the energy I plan to give it a good scrub up tomorrow.
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Sounds like the seller of my new lathe was so happy to let it go cheap due to 2 reasons, he had been storing it on behalf of someone that left NZ years ago and that it's missing the stand so can't be worth as much as ones with the stand.
Speaking of stands, that was today's mission
(some of the best MIG welds I've ever managed lol)Those plates are 12mm thick.
Little bit of grinding, paint and a bracket to mount the switch box and I'm calling it done!
Also noticed this:Doubt I'll be finding another one, so thinking of seeing if I can use someone else's lathe, turn off the small/broken pulley and rig up a single one on the shaft.
/3ph + VFD and leave it in the middle gear ha- 10
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Full forwards on the throttle lever, then pull it back a bit once running to turn off.