Nominal

Nice to see that the brown wagoon is back together.

No can do. In the wrong country this week.

New bearings and seals acquired. There was a shit-ton of grease in the hubs when I took them off. Much less went back in.

The ball bearings have a spacer between the sets (the cone shaped doo-dad.)

All back together I set the toe-in and went for a test drive with the Morris Enthusiasts club today.

So, should be good for a new WOF eh? Will find out week after next.

The other things on the WOF list from last time were the outer tierod end on the passenger side. 

Should be not problem, right? Well, that's what I thought until I had a look under there.

It's a bit of an oddball, just a single part with two ball joint ends.

Bought a used one from TM, cleaned it up and fitted new boots.

I think they are supposed to have the bend, so I installed a bend in the replacement one too.

Wheel bearings were also noisy. Cue grease session

That could be why

OK, so, made a new bracket for inside the door. The tabs hold a piece of spongy rubber.

]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1142178/fullsize/p1020095.jpg

Did some priming, bogging (+ repeat) and painting. It hasn't been colour sanded yet so it's not shiny. Shouldn't rust for a while again although.

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1142179/original/p1020152.jpg

More patchwork colours. 

New page?

On 08/11/2018 at 12:52, Charles said:

correct, it is the green you comment on! See the photo. You mean the Horopito wreckers? Are they selling parts? cheers.

 

Cute. My folks had a yellow one years ago.

Horopito said they are keeping it complete and have a lead on a replacement engine for it. It was stored at their house, not the yard.

9 minutes ago, tortron said:

What a fuckin egg

49 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

Chevette life.

 

The only reliable chevette I had was fitted with a 18RG.

14 minutes ago, Kimjon said:

That's pretty open. Unlikely to really improve braking performance. ..but a heap easier to service and get parts for.

Yeah yeah nah, good luck with that argument.

1 hour ago, Charles said:

Name (first is sweet): Charles

 Location: Auckland

Cars you own: Subaru 360, Messerschmitt KR200, 1956 Fiat 600 Multipla, Daihatsu 360.

Mods to them (can be brief or detailed): Seatbelts in some!

Pictures (Either attach the files here or use an image hosting website):

How you found out about oldschool: Online hunting....

 Anything else you want to add: Need help with the Daihatsu 360 "L38" ....manual as well as parts. I was given the Daihatsu by the Tauwhare military museum. They had collected it a long time ago,  "as its green". The old man is now deceased and the son offered it to me!

Interesting reading the posts here guys.

with regards,

Charles 

Talk to the @h4nd about Daihatsus.

Is it the cow poo green? There is one like that stashed by the owners of Horopito.

Can you measure what the change is on a stock car?

39 minutes ago, Nominal said:

What's that in mm?

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2010_Bump-steer_Measurement_Background_Information.pdf

 

2 minutes ago, Adoom said:

I'm confused by your question.

I've measured the up/down suspension travel in mm.

And the angle the wheel is toeing in/out in degrees. Which I calculated using the distance between the two pins and how much gap there is between one of the pins and the board bolted to the wheel hub. (as the wheel turns/steers one of the pins lifts up). mm by themselves are a bit meaningless if you don't know the distance from the wheel center the measurements are taken from. eg: The largest meausrement I got was 5.5mm, but if I measured further away, I'd have a bigger number for the same wheel angle.

I had read that pdf you linked. I can't use the method they describe because I've only got suspension(and modified steering) on one side of the car. 

Nah aye. I've lowered the steering rack, because there is an engine in the way, now I'm trying to fix the bump steer that has caused. I'm not talking about bump steer from lowering the car "too much".

It was just that the LVVTA discussion was around toe change in mm, not so much in degrees

Works out to about 3.5mm assuming 24" overall wheel + tyre diameter for the 0.67 degree

or ~2.55 mm for the ride height change.

If this is just one side, then the amount would be double.

1 hour ago, Adoom said:

 

Over 100mm of travel, full droop to full compression, I'm getting 0.67 degrees of toe change. As the suspension is raised, it toes out. 

If I run the ride height I'm thinking of running, the travel will be reduced to ~60mm and the toe change would be about 0.45 degrees.

What's that in mm?

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2010_Bump-steer_Measurement_Background_Information.pdf

@LV#5

On 17/02/2017 at 18:54, Nominal said:

NZR one.

Finally knocked up a new base for this and gave it a test drive. Works fine.

1 hour ago, Mourning Cupcake said:

How does the 8th December at Otaki Forks sound to everyone?

 

OK with me I think. 

Seen in Wellington cbd

This is exactly why I haven't yet wanted to fit the 4-barrel manifold I have. 

Door is progressing.

Just fix 1x Hilux and flat-tow Crown with it?

I got tired of messing around with the externally regulated alternator after a few years (too many flat battery/jump start experiences) and swapped to a used internally regular alternator  instead.

5 hours ago, Mourning Cupcake said:

Oh hey, so it's quickly rolling into wagon/camping season. Maybe mid November? Early December?

Keen, but have few things on already. Plus wagon has no door.

There's a lot of info in this thread if you wade through it

Personally, I've avoided 2K paint (which includes epoxy primer) because of the health risks.

Good news that the shakedown trip went well - a sign of a quality build.