CaMpylobacter

blown head asket will pressurise the cooling system an make it blow half the water out..... check that shit out I'll bet that's what's wrong holla

larger alternator pulley maybe??? that'll make it spins slower, therefore making the torque to drive it less, therefore less stress on teh bracketry

GO THE NPR!!!!!!!!

I'd rather sandblast all my skin off.... Formula Atlantic 4age pwns you

go for teh mad 4age styles... way easier

efi pwns your face. True story

youh, i'm pretty sure the vt@k run anticlockwise...... so you'd therefore have to use an s2000 gearbox - hondas only (post 1970s) RWD.... of course the NSX is rear but they're midmount so it wouldnt be of any use....

hah, sounds like they're blowing a fat wad of vt@k right there...... with rotors it's become such a state of worship for little homos trying to get people to do the big daaaaang DAAAAANG!!! shit.... shitkicks and rotaries - like moths to a flame

35psi of mad vt@k stlyez yo! have fun finding an s2000 gearbox though vtec run anticlockwise I'm pretty sure.....

you really need to say what particular engine dude...

lol, every mini i've been in does 100kph easy..... my sister's (stock 998,with a fuxored carb(all worn and shit)) will do 150, 140 is easy for it, even with 4 fat fuckers in it (bumpstopped lol)

rear axle bearings on escorts alway whine lol

get a rwd waterpump, and if it's a bigport 4agze get hold of a rwd bluetop inlet manifold, otherwise you will have to cut the throttle off one end, weld it on the other.. use rwd flywheel and clutch etc, 4agze items wont fit the bellhousing ae86/ae70 engine mounts, ae70 crossmember T50 will die after a little while, w55 conversion would be the go

the rear bias valve on single circuit braking system minis is located down where the line splits from one line to two at the front of the rear subframe... when you run twin circuit master cylinder, along with the aforementioned pressure failure switch (the h shaped one) you no longer need this as it's all taken care of by the pressure failure switch and the master cylinder.... if you dont substitute the rear bias valve down the back for a tee then the rear brakes wont be very efficient at all... 1275gts dont have one of these, they have a tee instead.... have a look at one if you're still confused... I picked up this, luckily, as i was putting all mine back together - had a 1275gt as a donor car... hopefully explained that clearly....

with brakes, I was going to use fronts off a metro turbo (vented with AP lockheed Four pots standard) not the easiest disc brakes (1275gt and cooper s bolt on) but they're mint... just need pre 1982 metro ball joints, mini steering arm, small mod to brake lines... you will not outdrive these brakes, they're awesome 1275gt brakes I'd go for if you dont do that as I'm told cooper s ones are alomost $2000 to get a decent set.... but you dont get 4 pots a pre 1982 metro set will go on with just the pipe mod and steering arms, but they aren't vented...... engine, make sure you get a good one, a rusted out metro would be mint,or a rusted 1275 gt.... morris 1300s have slightly different einge mounts so you would have to use your gearbox, also, get the late model "pot" type CV driveshaft gearbox, rubber cross gearboxes (your mays have one of these) are gay, the crosses fuck out all the time.... even cooler would be a universal joint type cooper box lol... 1275s are really asthmatic in comparisson to a 998, they only have a 1.5" carb (998s love these) which is far too small... again, chuck twin carbs at it, extractors (cooper long centre branch type-coby do a good set) and you're away..... modifying an allegro or morris 1300 radiator to fit ad not foul the subfrome wouldn't hurt either, they're quite a bit bigger, and try and get a really early MK1 4 blade fan, they're noisy but flow way more air, and suck less power. after this - bags of torque, even more fun than it is now...... my 1275 used to spin the wheels into top gear, and it was stock haha but yeah, make sure you do decent brakes, thats one thing I never had, soon as you get drums warm they suck - i used to constantly have mine smoking..... 1275 master cylinder would be cool too, they're twin circuit which helps even drum brakes (just remember to change the rear bias valve to a tee) as long as you keep it cool, and dont thrash it too much, it'll be a mean little car, will show up a few unweary drivers as well

word..... all minis i've seen with vtecs in have had the bodyshell widened and run the radiator in the boot seen a 12a turbo powered one as well, running a corna fwd gearbox - that was cool to watch on the track but yeah - 1275 it, buckets of torque.... mmm torque steering in a mini

pffft, with the gearbox, it'll be fine standard...... back in the day they only put straight cut gears in, and that was just to get the extra 4hp that they drag out.... I know a few race guys that use fully standard gearboxes, they have no problems, just dont be a homo and try and do burnouts everywhere-any car that does that ends up fucking their box, on minis, just make sure you do regular as servicing (i used to change my oil every 3000km) and if you're gonna work it at all then get a decent oil cooler, since the engine and gearbox share the same oil it makes it alot harder to keep the oil in good cond and cool temps putting a kent in it would be a step backwards, after spending all that money, you'd wind up with the same horsepower as a 1275 engine, and it'd be even harder to work on holla

bore and stroke a 1275 out to 1440, deck 80 thou off the pistons, build a custom turbs manifold and run a t25/t28 hybrid straight cut 6 speed gearbox from aussie, mad disc brakes, blah blah blaH AWESOME or work a 1275, bore it to about 1380 or something, twin 1.5" SU carbs, mad cams tits as!!

for the money, get ahold of a set of twin carbs or something..... i'd hit a ramflow, just make sure you heatsheild it from the exhaust, it gets really hot back there..... I used to run no filter at all on a downdraft weber, (couldn't close the bonnet with a k&n without cutting a hole in there) ended up scorching the paint on the underside of the bonnet, used to backfire a bit when it was cold (choke wasnt set right, used to flood) make sure it's all tuned and a foam filter will be sweet.... gettin cold air to it would be a good idea if at all possible. if it's only a 998cc, it may have a 1.25" SU carb on it, a 1.5" form a slightly later model 998, or from a 1098cc (with correct neddle and piston spring) is a good upgrade from that.... post a pic of your carb if you don't know which you have and I should be able to tell

checked ballast resistor? on the start circuit it supplies the coil with a full 12v,ballast resistor reduces it to five on a seperate circuit when running... my bet is that it's fucked....

1300 head doesn't have combustion chambers, i.e: it's completely flat, therefore higher compression.... flows less though, and will be wayyyyy to much compression on a 1600 with 1300 pistons, and crap anyway