Mr.Mk1

Off you fuck, again

Another few hundred bucks worth of stuff. all packed up and mostly ready for the big trip south to start putting the strength back into it and she’ll come home a viable car!

Oh yeah! Rebuilt and sleeved to standard spec by Powerstop, so hopefully we should feel ALL the dual-diaphragm assisted Chrysler luxuriousness a poor man needs

This brace wasn’t bracing shit any longer. It’s quick and ugly cause it’s largely hidden by vents

Remember how my master cylinder was rooted and pulled all the fluid into the booster? shane at powerstop brakes cleaned it up, reassembled and tested it after another shop tore it apart and quoted the earth to repair. He’s sleeving the master for me too. I’ve ordered another pcv valve. super stoked, Look him up for classic and modern/ABS brake solutions!

More ugly bonnet business.

Few less holes in hood frame

More scrappy part-finished hood frame shiz.

Any fucking wonder they rust. Scraping paint off the hood frame with the edge of my new patch and fingernail, not a speck of primer

It’s still progress even if it’s to cold to do physical work on it right? Ah shit, wet mangled box phew not rooted! Some damage to the tulip/deck filler/Dutchman panel but easy fix. even included a bonus fancy Honda trans mount with an electrical sensor some poor sap will be waiting for on a 2day service! This only took a week to arrive!

I picked up some gaskets, some were on clearance! Also got hub seals and assembled the new discs & new wheel bearings. gave some cheap ‘chrome’ paint a try, nowhere near where it should be, but I’m ok with it as is. These are arm rest bases and were just painted silver a few months back.

Two nites in a row I went and looked at it and just didn’t know where to start. There’s plenty of pretty complex shapes and curves to tackle. Today I bit my lip and sunk the grinder into it! None of this really needs to be finished too flash unless it’s an edge or close to the skin. The grey side isn’t seen at all. Can’t imagine the car will have the bonnet attached at repair cert time either. Then mint.16 came and got my Honda monkey bike going after over a year so that slowed progression a bit, but yay!

I know what I’m doing also, even paint is as effective as any converter. You need air and moisture for rust. Seal it out

Today was the warmest day we’ve had in a while so I rushed home and got a few coats of etch on

Well fertan was cool. I knocked the top off with a wire wheel on the drill. Applied the fertan. It’s just like deck stain, very loose and dark. It comes in a wee bottle with a spray/squirt gun like household cleaner. Has a nice spray and really hammers it on well. it’s not there to ask how your day was, it’s ready to fuck. If it isn’t a textured/pitted surface it wanted to run off. the instructions said let it sit for about an hour and dampen with water (yeah aye, water and rust) but since I applied it as it was getting dark I figured the next best thing was leave it on the drive for a nice even layer of moisture from the air. ah shit it was -2 when I got up, lol. Frost is even so it’s still a win. Once it dried it was kicking off a blue powder. I was instructed to leave it 24 hours before painting, 48 if it’s cold..but can wait 6 months before paint.. that’s a ballsy claim! The last step is to remove the purple dust with a damp rag and your done. Your left with a black part, rock on. I’ll etch prime with 2K this week weather permitting.

It’s about 1mm in sheet metal,1.5 bracing and 2+ In the rails. It’s way nicer to weld than Japanese stuff for sure! Bit harder to manipulate though. I’m practically out of thicker sheet stock so fucking around with the hood is good timing

It certainly the best course of action. im super fucked if anything happens to rare parts when farming out, it’s not worth the risk for me. And a repair vs resto scenario I have to stick to.

strip disc exposed the soft spots.. I need more dremel cutting wheels before attempting this one, as used last one the other day and forget to order during the day I lied, it wasn’t just the nose that rusted. for fox skates! Hate precision bonnet jobs. She’s had a wire wheel back and 2 coats of Brunox. I thought a round hole would be less likely to distort so used the step drill to open them up to fresh steel and zapped one weld at a time with a long cool down period in between. it worked, the important side is pretty flush and won’t need much aftercare. The brunox was a test, has a good name but haven’t used it before now. It’s all good, but doesn’t seem to go far and isn’t cheap. I’ve ordered some Fertan brand stuff to have a hoon on this time round, the inner of frame will be a great test for it. I got some front wheel bearings and 2L of 3M underbody Schutz for later on too. Stay tuned homos

Well that was never going to fix itself was it.. rust bomb with a lit fuse! Remember I said I spent ages with air and vacuum yesterday getting scale out? Missed a bit.. Thankfully the skin is 95% mint, it’s just the very front ‘nose’ section that’s let go. Plenty of hours in the frame though. I’ll clean it up and rust kill it and paint it then put the skin back on before I repair it so it doesn’t get out of shape.

this is passengers footwell/firewall. The last piece I’ll make with a piece of the floor Ill be throwing away, then I have nice clean swages. I moved onto the rear and sorta hit the wall. The rear panel isn’t properly attached anymore and I need to do the structural bits first. I had a look at the drivers footwell floor patch and it’s a bit shit ( there was no stock of full pan when I ordered it so I have one lush full side and one patchy bitsa. Again can’t do much until full swing structural tear-down on level ground. Spent ages blowing sand and stuff out of the good chassis rail and cross brace. bit the bullet and decided the bonnet must be the next inline. after half an hour of compressed air and vacuum collecting the scale, I’ve sorta decided I now can’t avoid peeling the skin off the frame to properly attack it and seal it. Thankfully the bonnet is in great ‘shape’ so I just have to carefully drill the spot welds with no prying. The bonnet is practically worth more then the car after all!