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Hemi

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Posts posted by Hemi

  1. 1 hour ago, KKtrips said:

    There are some thoroughly hairy mopars running around without an EWP and not overheating, so it has to be either a water to air-flow issue or tuning issue.
    I'm leaning towards air-flow cos Clint ain't no dummy and the tuning issues should be within a range that it won't fuck with the temps, so either there isn't enough cool air passing over the rad or the water is not in the rad long enough to cool down.

    When you pulled t-stat out, did you leave a restrictor in place?

     

    This s is a good point, don't you have a ir thermometer? Check the in vs out temp 

     

  2. I've only skim read, but you mentioned something about the intercooler could you add side thingies to it so the fan is pulling straight through the "assembly" instead of just the rad being the one with the pull. I'm Wondering if there's turbulence of pull through the intercooler vs pull going around/ under it.

    Prob not, don't have wind tunnel.

    Do you have oil temp and coolant gauges, can tell you heaps as the oil is usually way.more stable so if both are xx and then coolant jumps up but the oil stays the same after half and hour then maybe it is a flow issue?

    Iunno too many beers deep now.

     

    Oh, and are you sure you don't have a rag in one of the rad fittings. 

     

    Don't laugh, it has happened. 

    • Haha 2
  3. Nah you can run standard nitrile seals in both, ATF is good because it doesn't eat everything, use it to lube up dynamic orings all the time when the grease gets old and sticky. It's also used in auto lubers for compressed air. Has to be pretty gentle or it would fuck everything inside a trans. 

    Brake fluid is pretty safe too. Piston cups are nitrile I'm sure, been using them in systems for years and have no adverse effects. Only used viton in hydraulic systems where it's too hot for nitrile.

     

    • Like 4
  4. The first ones listed are mint , very common in workshops here, I like them because if you tell it to feed a battery the fat, it does that. smart chargers are too smart for that sometimes. 
    Also last a million years, but yeah , they are expensive and dumb. 

     

    • Like 1
  5. SO you cant buy hydrochloric, sulrufic or phosphoric acid over the counter?

    man ive been buying all of those in bulk because constantly need to remove the Pilbara paint jobs and unclog plumbing. 

    no one cares here, want 40L of glyphoshate in concetrate, pay the money. 
    want 40L of any acid, just pay the man . no one cares. 

     

    • Like 1
  6. 17 minutes ago, Unclejake said:

    Chaps, I know very little about diesels and even less about turbos.

    I recently bought a 105 series Land Cruiser with a factory 1HZ n/a six cylinder engine and 410,000kms. A previous owner has fitted a turbo from an 80 series Land Cruiser. The boost gauge shows a maximum of 10psi boost under hard driving, but more like 6-8psi in normal cruising. I assume the original n/a injector pump is still in place

    Issue: The vehicle uses significant amounts of fuel. ~ $180 per week which is about double what my other trucks use for the same distance travelled

    Question: Will 'turning down the boost' make a significant fuel saving or do I need to consider a 'turbo' injector pump?

    There's a rotten 60 series Land Cruiser turbo rusting in a paddock near by. I could probably rob it of its injector pump (if it fits) if that's a worthy task

     

    Im not a light vechiel man , but if i remember right the turbo pumps will have an aneroid cap, which will hold the rail back until it gets boost, so you arent black smoking everywhere before boost. 
    so , does it have a boost hose going to a diaphragm on the pump? 
    I mean this wont explain the fuel usage. 
    turnign the boost down will not save any fuel as the rail/rack in the pump will be set and boost just opens the already preset things. you can run 40 PSI of boost on a 2l if you want and it wont do shit without the fuel.

    Does it smoke. 
    white? 
    Black?

    Old mate who turboed it might have messed with things inside the pump that would cancel out anything above. 

    but white usually means either WAY too much fuel or timing. Black is good timing but rich. 

    There are heaps of people that know more about these then me though. 
     

  7. So put a cheapo battery revitliser on the Aux batteries over the course of last swing off and they now take charge and are sitting at a happy 12.4 volts, stoked. so have bought a dumb linear charger just to pump them up good. 
    then most of the light in the rear started working! yay. so last night i replaced the broken shitty ones and re-attached some otheres to the roof . 
    so much better , need some more in certain areas like above the roll cab top for working surfaced etc, but pretty impressed, also going to get rid of the spotlight style ones in the front body and  mybe mount them to be used as exterior facing lights.
    the spottie in the rear section of the body still isnt working either , so need to look into that too 
    also forgot to turn them off so they were still going at 11pm when i wombled outside so batts must be ok

    pic on dusk.
     

    PXL_20210610_095840990

     

     

    • Like 9
  8. IM not sure why this is a big deal? coolants these days are pretty damn good for all applications. running 75% is silly, water is a far better conductor of heat. the 50-50 distilled water is fine.
    Choose your brand . and be done with it

    • Like 6
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