Hemi

5 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

I could treat our 2L powered '87 Hiace as a guinea pig and try some of this stuff. Its certainly not a rocket ship and never will be but I keep a thorough record of its fuel usage and economy and know it well after ten years of driving it. 

But before I do- please explain the magic behind this stuff. Is it like some other things I have seen in that it apparently increases the sealing of the rings so increasing effective compression?

Also- that Lucas oil stabiliser that I remember as a young fella , the little clear plastic case on the shop counter with gears in it, one side with the lucas product, one without, showing how the lucas stuff sticks to the gears. Is that stuff legit? I always wondered that if it worked so well then why wouldn't the gear oil companies just add it to their products?

Loved playing with that thing, put it in the Escorts diff and gbag along with the teflon additive. 
But after seeing all of those when they are running, so long as they are in good condition I cant see how they help, so much lubricant being smashed around everywhere.
maybe it would be good for something that sits for ages and the lubricant drains away?

Also wonder if there is a research paper on wether teflon is actually any good under extreme pressure. and in hind sight , why the fuck would you put it in a synchro gearbox if its designed to reduce friction. 

Me not run additives anymore, most of the fuel companies run that shit anyway dont they, you get some shitty fuel from X company and you wont get back there, they change the mix between seasons for hot and cold. maybe they do work. 

But for me, running the specified oil, doing services regularly and running the right fuels is what im on. used to buy penrite fancy pants hpr 5 in the ute, run the recommended ac delco spec, its 15 buck cheaper per litre! Just change the oil at regular intervals and it will be fine. 

Engine flush is pretty much clean kero isnt it? 

Dunno about diesel additives. the trucks up here run out the bowser gas, do the milage and when they get pulled down are clean as fuck with the normal small amount of build up. but they pretty much dont turn off, so not a fiar comparison.

Running standard plugs then going to platinum though? fuck yes that makes a difference. that nice beautiful small point is ace for getting good spark.

 

14 hours ago, UTERUS said:

Anyone got experience with a really nice tap and die set?

 

Links to what you're using plz.

 

Sutton is legit.

2 hours ago, peteretep said:

You sir, are an animal. Won’t somebody plz think of the 1/4”hex bit

Buy a shitty cheap bit set, they usually have both 1/4" to hex and drill spec hex to 1/4"
Dunno where you could find one by itself. I have a ebay special and is legit. 
Latch spec. 

K, I know them as a cam actuated injector. 
Either way, im not convinced. common rail would be fine because its common rail. the pressure in the rail is designed to be like a fuel rail and constant/pressure designed to line up with injection. 
Unit injectors are the same, the cam profile will be able to provide action on the injector to meet that. both will be electronic and have multiple injections per cycle.

Both are run in vehicles i work on and both have DPF's . and both do fine.
Late injection as far as i know is to reduce soot. it increases the SOX and NOX, SOX is reduced by using low sulphur fuel  and NOX is reduced by adblue/aftertreatment systems. 

 

1 hour ago, 00quattro00 said:

Having a dpf on a unit injection engine was shit any way as they cannot inject the fuel late enough to get a good burn going

Unit injection, what do you mean by this?
 

17 hours ago, Truenotch said:

Saving this years work boot allocation just for the undertaking. good shit. 

Looking good there Bart.

Oh man, heretic. That brings back memories.

Pretty much zero without a DPF as I can't see how you would otherwise catch the excess soot. 

On 03/09/2018 at 17:39, scooters said:

https://oilprice.com/Energy/Energy-General/A-New-Lithium-War-Is-About-To-Begin.html

I like how they haven't mentioned Aussie, which as per nearly every natural resource have shitloads of it.

One mine was mothballed last week because of the boom that is now on the other end of the cycle. 

There's shit tonnes of lithium around, just hasn't been the demand to build the infrastructure to pull it out of the ground. 

Gearwrench is the usual go to for me. tbh id buy whatever is the easiet to get product support from.

11 hours ago, kicker said:

Maybe, have thought about getting out but hard to actually do it, retention is very high in my team for a few reasons, last person to join the team was 10 years ago, 2 have left in that time, the last about 6 years back. 17 of us at the mo.

Off topic. But damn son. 

Atf is good for freeing up bores too, has the detergents in it for that, wont evaporate etc.

As for if its a bottom end issue,try turnign over via crank bolts? if these slack then it might be in the pistong rings. if theres none its in the crank.

3 hours ago, Yowzer said:

That's a very unusual story. How would you overheat the oil without over heating the water? If there wasn't enough water in it the temperature gauge wouldn't have changed, I had that happen to an engine once when it blew a hose.

If it has been proper hot then things could have warped a bit. Bores may not be round anymore. Might just be worth ditching this one and slapping the turbo gear on that other engine.

By running a bearing. that will get the oil hot very fucking quick and zero change to coolant temp. I will say that i work on truck motors and not smaller vehicle so it might be different. But in my experience is if the oil temp raised so quick it didnt get to the cooling system, thats bearings , they aint part of the cooling system and thus the oil will hold ALL of the heat. Yeah there are oil coolers but if you watch coolant vs oil temps while running up you can see how lagging/ disconnected they can be. 

Not a wail, but my experience. tear me apart if you will. 

Been repeated heaps, but yeah dont let them go dead. most chargers now days are like 10 amp most which just wont wake a slumbring beast, they probably cut out/ cut the amps because they think it has a dead cell which if fed like that will cause boiling ( both charging and in the vehicle)
The batts in the trucks here last like 2 months tops in summer if they go onto the gravel due to heat and vibration.
Dont be mad if you have to replace them every 3 years tbh. couple hundy over thet term isnt that bad.
 

kits can be spendy though**

Helicoil. Keep the same size and gain the benefits of stainless thread instead of alloy, and if it shits itself, well just grab it by the end and zoom it out. 
 

Right , ive run across a good video on how to set it up. 
however, any experience on using it will be awesome. 

Right, so have rebuilt a few d16 engines and have had no issues. usually we get the crank inspected by an outworker and is measured etc. i usually mic the thing myself to note the values for peace of mind. however, ive been using plastigage to note the bearing clearance and the GM is not happy with it. he wants full measurement done , which is cool and i can understand that. 
IN the past ive used the t style pieces where you push in, put in place. hit the btton they shoot out and you mic that. 
I dont have those here, but do have a dial bore gauge. have had a look at a few tutorials but im not picking it up and its making me feel fucking stupid.
SO questions are:

#1 can a dial bore gauge be used to measure big end and main bearings 

#2 How do i set this up. Mainly you have the gauge setup, and a set of anvils. say the the spec is 112.3mm or i have the bearings setup and i measure that to the same. do i grab a 112 anvil and .5 spacer? or is there a piece of paper missing from the case that tells me how to add the anvil to the setup.
 

Any help appreciated as ive asked for the above mentioned gauge kit thing but get the feeling im meant to be able to do it with this. 

Fuck EGR. 
The Euro's are going to hot EGR. will see how that goes ( so no cooler etc)
Still, fuck EGR.

Aftertreatment is a pain in the ass, but i can deal with it. because its after the engine. this bullshit that poisons the whole motor when it fails can burn in hell.

You can fill the cavities to help stop water sitting inside the hub.
I wouldnt worry too much unless its making its way onto the brakes (if it has those) check it every now and then after a good run and see what happens, some grease have alot of oil in the soap and can let it out, others a super dry and wont bleed even after being cooked .

Got Pics? sweat is nothing i would be concerned about, a large amount of fluid would be though. how much have you packed into the bearings? 

@Steelies @KKtrips, anyone else? 

yeah that's the plan at this stage, sweet man, sis might be able to help me out but otherwise yes please. Will let you know by mid day tomorrow?

Hey guys, my ride until the airport on Friday has made a faux pa and now I need to sort something in Welly, accom is sorted but wondering if anyone in Welly itself is heading to the meet and could give us a ride? Can chip in for gas etc.

I can make this!!! Sqweeee

Man that one in the background is a bit shgwag spec.

Cool bike!