510WGN

I've seen in parts books that the B110 and B210 use the same front springs, so if 1200 ones are around then they should work.

Cause I'm thinking about taking the 1200 wagon for a run over the hill... so let me know on 027 254 8017 if you wanna meet up, or when you see the old blue wagon gimme a yell and I'll stop to meet ya.

So what are you useless H-town fellas up to? Nothing happens here so I'll be keen for mission over the hill again sometime! Leon, I'll be there FOR SURE when the Turbo Gem is on the road!!

Yeah late model electronic flasher units can also have pretty quiet operation too. Some flasher units also have the hazard system in them as well, but it depends on how the whole system is wired up from factory. So if you've got an old car, be carefull which flasher unit you go and buy, cause it could just end up pissing you off and wasting your money.

They are supposed to be that tight so they don't come loose. If you look at the steering shaft you'll see that the slpine is tapered, that's why it's still tight even after the nut is removed. Don't need a special tool to remove, most pullers and a few bolts can get them off aye. Usually come off easier by hand if you pull up from side to side, rather than even pressure up.

Can't be stretched having a 215 on 7.5" rim. I've got 215/35/18 on 7.5" alloy which isn't stretched, just the rim protection of low profile that makes it look that way. Yeah I'm still toying with the idea of stretching some tyres on some 13" mags for the 1200... I prefer the Jap style over the gay mid 80's-90's Kiwi style of fat Eagers on boring Modgies! But all to their own I guess

Sweet! So ya showed it who's boss then aye?

Yeah I'm aware of that and had my reasons for thinking it's off a Nissan. But yes as Mike has just said, there are heaps of cars out there with Mitsubishi's alternators and electronic ignition parts to name a few.

By saying bright links I guess you are talking about timing an engine that has a timing chain?? If so, it doesn't really matter where you have the links as long as you KNOW the cam and crank gears are properly aligned. Also it'd take HEAPS of revolutions to line up the links with the timing marks on the gears too, unless you wanted to remove the chain and start again. You can turn the engine over by hand to make sure as said above, but if only a few teeth out, the piston could still miss the valves but would run like shit!!

Can you try to hold the broken bit of terminal with some pliers or something? Is that off a late model Nissan by any chance??

Nah that's the main wire from the battery, so NO WAY you could put it somewhere else. So you'd have to get that sorted before you get the alternator fitted. It shouldn't be THAT bad anyway! The stud and nut are usually made of a pretty soft material so they don't normally rust. Can you get another small open end spanner on the alternator side of the broken terminal to help hold the whole thing from turning? Should be able to get enough leverage with just a spanner on the nut

Any of the car parts places will do aye. I just got mine form Repco.

Yeah sounds pretty much like buggered UJs to me! Can't replace the bearings IN them, just replace the whole joint. I just bout two for my 1200, cost me $40. Any workshop can fit them for ya easily enough if ya can't do it yourself. Is an EASY job as long as they have circlips holding them together and not a crap unservicable unit like some models have. (there are ways around this though!)

Yeah have a look at the thickness of the core and the thickness of the tanks, usually the tanks will be bigger than the core. Can usually get a core with an extra row fitted to the same tanks. But also have to remember that radiators will work better if bigger surface area and thinner than smaller surface area and thicker. It's not just the volume of water that makes the difference! Imagine the cold air passing through a thin core, will be HEAPS of nice cold air to cool the tubes. Now imagine the air passing through a thicker core, the cold air that has cooled the first few tubes is now hot, meaning it's not going to cool the last few tubes very well at all.

Will see what he says on Monday man

Umm, not sure aye. Didn't cost him a thing cause it's his workshop So not sure how much the shop paid to get it done. I know the Braided oil hoses and Earls fitting aren't cheap for a start! He also made an adapter plate and fitted it to a VW box. Not sure how much of it is around anymore, but could probably have a look around. HE might even want to sell it...

Yes the Honda engines DO rotate Anticlockwise, not clockwise like everything else. At work my boss was making a new offroader from scratch, boss wanted to use Honda power to be different. So got a ZC DOHC 1600 and stripped it down, made some mods here and there and made the thing run clockwise! Had the Cams all reprofiled to suit running backwards, had external braided oil pump lines hanging out of front cover to allow oil pump to work, HEAPS of fancy shit! The only problem was fooling the factory computer into thinking it was running the correct way We had tried HEAPS of different way to do this, it would run, but not properly. So fitted a carb and was all sweet That engine is now just sitting on workshop floor collecting dust

Did anyone see that Mint as Blue Anglia [bADBOX] at last years Nats show in Auckland? My Boss built and owns that and is fitted with 1600 x-flow with twin 40mm side draughts. If you want I could find out EXACTLY what he did to fit em for ya. I know that he made up a big linkage setup and mounted some form of late model Jap brake master cylinder up the front of the engine bay and under the carbs.

It's not always the extra rpm that makes the flywheel exit the bell housing, too many people take too much off them thinking that lighter is better!! BUT when you get a crappy cast flywheel that now has most the strength removed to make it lighter, then give it high rpm and a some heavy loading on the clutch it can just fly to pieces. I'm not a fan of lightening cast flywheels, prefer to do the job properly and buy something like a cromoly flywheel that is light AND strong. I jammed a cromoly flywheel in the Primera when I converted to manual, it did cost me about $500, but it dropped the weight from about 8kgs to 4.5kgs! I also now know that I'm never going to have any flywheel issues now or in the future!

Yeah is pretty common for any engine to damage the rear cylinder first as it's further away from the waterpump and radiator.

The Waterpump problem is an easy fix, just a matter of buying a new pump for either the L200 or L300 engine. Then it's just a matter of having a bit of a play with the other piping, which is really easy. As for the intake manifold having the Throttle body facing the firewall, is easy to get the throttle body mount cut off and tig welded on the other end of the manifold. Does anybody know if the later EVO intake manifolds will bolt up to earlier heads? Because the engines are now on the RHS of the car the intake manifold will have the Throttle body on the correct end for your application.

Is the No.4 Spark Plug all oily looking after running? The oil you added in there has just proven that the rings are a bit sad on that cylinder, that's why I asked if it has been hot. Don't NORMALLY get rings so different on just one cylinder if it was just wear, more likely that the engine has had a bit of a cook up and possibly nipped the piston in the bore, so could stop a good seal and allows the oil to pump up the side of the piston which burns HEAPS of oil. OR it could just be something simple like a broken ring or two. Let us know if it clears after a run.

Umm, oil smoke IS white! What were your compressions? How much lower was no.4? Has the engine been hot? How long have you run it like that for?

All the 4G63 blocks are the same so DOHC shouldn't be a problem to fit if you don't want to use a SOHC. One of my old flatmates had a SOHC 4G63 in his Galant Colt, and another old flatmate had a VR4 4G63 Turbo sitting in his old GTO, so they all WILL work.

Yeah but they aren't exchange mounts, they just fill your old mount and send it back, the front one for the Primera was welded to the North South beam so had to be sent up with it. Was a real mission for them to stick it in the oven type thing they have cause of that, but I'm not complaining about the cheaper price!