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10 hours ago, RXFORD said:

Stu's Trim Shop did these for an Esky van we built a number of years ago.

Basically just a modern/higher quality and more refined copy of a Mk1 Rs2000 panel. Instead of being heat-seamed they were stitched, and a little more 'plump'.

Simple but fitted the Resto-mod build. 

This is pretty nice. Maybe a little busy for me. I do like the suggestion to do similar to Richie's cards. Just need to find a fabric I like.

12 hours ago, a.craw4d said:

What color is the car?

Have the accent match or compliment the exterior color.

The car is yellow, but I think yellow highlights look a bit naff against black, and yellow/black tartan is not great to look at.

2 hours ago, datlow said:

Will you be running the white seats?

That's not my car, just an example. I have black seats/carpet/headliner. Door cards also likely to be black with some kind of accent.

1 hour ago, 64valiant said:

I'd keep the most of your door card the same apart from doing the bottom pattern where your door handle is in a fabric, keeping it og style but putting a bit of pizzazz on it.

 

Simular style to Richard's starlet door cards.

 

If you want to mix the fabrics right up sms fabrics in murica have a huge range of styles. Lemans in wellington also have a different range of fabrics, bit spendy but you probably wouldn't need much been smaller inserts.

Thanks for the advice. You're booked up forever eh?

I like the idea of something not too crazy, but not particularly tartan or houndstooth. I like this old Recaro confetti but I also don't have Recaros and maybe it's a bit 80s for my car: https://retroautotek.com.au/shop/retro-lemans-confetti/

5 hours ago, Snoozin said:

1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (178)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr

Kept mine subtle, and classic. Originally my trims extended over the tops of the doors but I choce to delete that trim and go with painted tops, it's a styling cue that's lost to the sands of time now I think. The idea was to emulate something that might have been a top level trim spec, and I drew inspiration from Singer and the current crop of 'restomod' stuff that's around these days to choose my textures. The design of the insert however, fairly closely replicates a factory KP door trim, exception in my case being I have continued that line through to the rear door cards too. Lots of people have said "shit the interior looks amazing for its age," so I'm assuming they think it's OEM which is a great success in my eyes

Tartans, houndstooth etc are all fairly timeless texture/fabric options and will look great in years to come I think. Added bonus of being a deluxe period sort of option for the car.

Novelty prints and shit are cool now but 5 years later on you wanna be sure you like looking at it.... 

Yeah, I agree with you on the novelty stuff. I am keen to do something similar to yours I think, just need to find the right fabric. Did you design the layout yourself?

Porsche stuff I saved. Not sure how good these would look without the top covering it.

I'm looking for some ideas for my door cards. The stock ones look like this (I have black handles) but I think I'd like something slightly more modern.

Any ideas?

14 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

It looks very much like a generic mk1 golf item that's been flexed up/bolted on to suit the datto. 

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/parts-other-makes/exterior/listing/3619472626?gclsrc=aw.ds&gclsrc=aw.ds&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnNyUBhCZARIsAI9AYlGYJYUNAwfG6aiIehsrolq3O-Gi3fo-uaYdRQpOYuqUnGSID2cQqUAaAi1nEALw_wcB

I think it's quite different to one of those. That's what I have already...

They are quite a bit thinner and don't have the upturned edges.

I wonder if there are any gen 1 Elfs in NZ

Anyone know where I can find one of these chin spoilers in NZ?

7 hours ago, cletus said:

Nope as long as it meets the interior impact requirements you can do what you want if it's just a roll bar. 

 

It would only become more important to check it if it forms part of the structure, like if the upper 4 link bar mounts were incorporated into it, or you mounted your seat belts off the roll bar 

Awesome. Thanks Clint. I assume the same would apply if i was to incorporate the shock tower strengthening hoops into it?

16 minutes ago, cletus said:

Correct. 

Unless there are belts attached to the roll bar, it could be made out of 25mm exhaust tube, as for lvv cert, the only concern with roll bars is interior impact ie making sure you don't damage yourself on a sharp bar bracket or something 

 

Adding gussets will be no problem 

Thanks Clint. Is there a limit to changing the cage? When the car is in for the 4-link work, I might ask if they have any suggestions about making it better.

I was looking for half-cage rules, but couldn't find them specifically.

2 hours ago, dmulally said:

Have you got more stuff to cert anyway? I'd tick it off then. 

If not borrow some of @yoeddynz hello kitty plush toys and cable tie them to the gussets. 

Yeah, essentially everything in the car except the existing cage needs certing as it's all changing.

2 hours ago, dmulally said:

I took my Chev C20 through LVV a year or so ago and things are a little different to when I took my commer through a few years ago. Instead of a plate they have a scanning tag and when they put that into the LVV system it brings up a whole stack of pictures of the build. 

So the Commer I'm able to do minor mods to (which is what I'd consider gussets to be) but the Chev would be a little too hard. I was going to swap my 700r4 for a 4l80e gearbox but it will be noticable should anybody log in and check closely. As like all these things, it depends on the mood of your WOF guy. 

If you've got more things to Cert I'd just do what you need to do beforehand so it is included in the pics. 

The old cert does not have any pictures, although Clint knows I'm asking this question

I just don't want to end up in a situation where I have to rebuild the main hoop because adding the gussets effectively means the cage is no longer the same as how it was when originally certed.  If that makes sense.

My current understanding that my because my car is currently certed for its half cage with the old diameter main hoop, I can keep it through the recert for all the other changes I am making to the car (brakes, engine, suspensions, etc.). Is this correct? And can I add some central gussets to the cage without having to recert it?

Struggling to get in contact with @RXFORD. We were messaging on FB a few weeks ago, but now I'm not getting any response and no answer on the phone.

Any other options, besides Steel Surgeon? Need someone a bit more local as I'll have to do some back and forth with the mounts.

On 22/01/2022 at 10:23, cletus said:

Actually, if it's only the housing that needs shortening, you could try @RX FORD / matt at tin tricks he's narrowed a couple of housings on b2000s 

Just checked out his FB page, looks good!

1 hour ago, SOHC said:

I can ask a guy i know, he dose stuff like this often, 

Any more info here?

Axles are being done elsewhere, so it's just shortening the housing and welding on the brackets.

Anyone heard of Diff Specs in Drury?

I'm looking for someone to shorten my diff housing and weld some new mounts to it in Auckland, any recommendations?

Cheers

I currently have a cheap old 1/4" wrench that is probably buggered and has been used as a breaker more times than I'd like to admit. I'm keen to grab a new 1/4" and possibly a 3/8" one too. Don't really wanna spend $500 each so what are my options? Are there affordable electric ones?

The other option is thread the outside of the master cylinder inlets. There is definitely enough meat, just need to measure to see if it's a common thread size.

An update on this.

I just spoke with Brian and Howat Engineering and he said the best option is to weld up, chop and respline the axles I have - it's like $100 each - and if it goes south make something up later (around $400 per billet axle). His reckoning was that in a small car like the Gem it'll break traction way before it shreds the splines, and mentioned that they had drag cars with welded and resplined axles and that it was all good.

Ah yeah. That's a good idea. Could easily weld a dash fitting on the top as well.

What's the deal with determining the OD of the push-fit in relation to the master cylinder inlet ID?