zep

Here we go:

Yeah good idea TR. Take a look at the stickies in the workshop section to see what's invloved with writing a workshop article!

I put one of them to the battery, can't remember which that was. One of the two you put to the ignition wires.

It also depends on your shock/spring setup. Some will be more bouncy than others. My shocks are sports ones made for stiff setups, that's why they suck with the compressed springs as they are very soft. Plus, I got my springs compressed 60mm which is fucking heaps.

...or you can get a socket which 'should' just fit and hit it on with a hammer. But you didn't hear that from me either.

Both chopping and compressing are illigal, but both can be legal if certed. But in saying that, I have had chopped springs in the back of my car (while others were out for compressing ) and compressed springs, which are in there now. Both were complete shit, they gave too much body roll and were bouncier than a pogo stick. The ride was horrible. If you can't afford to lower your car stright away, SAVE, then do it. Do things right the first time. I wish I had, I'm on my 4th set of springs for my car soon. Plus, we dont want you guys dying, or worse, killing others. I also wish this, would be fantastic. Or they could just give them to us for parts cars

No, it's true. The Oldschool scene in NZ is very set on two extremes (most of the time anyway). The car is either mint as, show (or close to) condition. Read: That rotahavik cruise. OR: Some ghetto ass shit that you've all seen round with chopped/no springs, ghetto spray jobs, crap exhaust and and all the rest. It would be nice to see people actully take care of their cars, and work towards something nice, rather than taking the fastest and cheapest way to do something, ending up crap and possible illigal. It might take a long time, and lots of money, but that's what your in the ca modification scene for isn't? Plugging all your money into your car

I agree, When I put tuned extractors and 2" pipes on my 1600 engine, definatly felt a difference. Even more so when I added the single down draught weber. Low Lancer: too true, try and find the bigger engine for some of these car. I myself, have never seens a 2lt which slots in my car for sale, though they have 1000s of them in aussie. Well, not true, but they were wanting over $1000 for a 20 year old motor with about 15kw more than my engine has. We'll see how it goes when my 1600 is all together.

Smart ass

Are you keeping with the stock engine? And is all this happening after the manual conversion? Anyway... Decent extractors should already be tuned. Not sure where you'll find some for your car tho. I checked the place I know that sells them and it has nothing. Not even listed. You can change to side draught, most cars it just depends on the brake booster, and where it is in relation to the engine. But saying that, some companies (eg Lynx) make manifolds to suit engines when you want to change to side draughts. They usually clear the booster. Otherwise, you could coinsider a large single carb, or twin down draughts. With the cams, you can get your one reground, or again, there are companies which make cams to suit. This is usually based on how much work is done to the engine and your driving style. Kelford cams might be able to do you something. I'll let you know if I think of something. All you have to do now is go in search of bits for y ** Have you got those wheels on yet?

Careful what you say guys, I hear the cops check out the bigger forums every once in a while. (I wonder if we're big enough for that privelidge )

The auction says the engine needs new injectors...

You should try it with a straight through exhaust and extractors!!!

To change the shift light revs?

Autogauge...

I installed a tacho the other day, in place of my older shitty one. I just hooked up the wires to the same places and it was all good. The thing which puzzles me, though, is the shift light. I know how to set it and all, and that's cool. But sometimes it'll just come on really dim (might be after i give a blast of revs, not sure tho) and slowley get brighter and brighter as i drive... all when im driving round at like 2500 and it's set to trigger at 5000. Any ideas?

I've got a ramflow on it. It also has been modded to fit an electric choke. Just need to figure out which screw is which now...

I just finished putting a 32/36 DGV on my car and it's running like crap! Can anyone give me some instructions on the best way to tune these bad boys? Cheers

Welcome man, reckon you can not write in CAPS? cheers

I don't really know much about the pros and cons between webers and SUs, but i've heard that SUs really take to forced induction. Might have to have a search to see where I saw that, but I'll let you know if I find anything.

Welcome dude, That's nice as, good to see we're getting a bit more variety on here!

Yeah. If the wheel shop is any good, they should be able to buy blank wheels and get them drilled to the right stud pattern / offset. Or at least that's what I was told when I was looking at a set of wheels for my car and wanted the perfect offset.

Yeah, it's definatly a big task. Lots of fabrication involved. Most people (i would think) just grab a brake setup off of another car and get it customised to fit their car. I can't imagine it being cheap. Why do you want to do this?

So what's the next step?

So that's why they say rotors have lots of horsepower but no torque, as they rev high as the sky.