zep

Ok... I think Burntrubber is trying to figure out a way to do electronic igntion to an Isuzu engine at the moment. I'll talk to him about that. Otherwise I guess I'll talk to this guy again about the boost retard diaphragm.

This is the problem. I have no idea about timing and advancing and retarding and all that. What would you suggest for my carb setup? What do other blow through setups use?

RT: This is a carby turbo setup. My other option is, and I've found someone who can do it, is ti retro-fit a boost retard diaphragm into my dizzy...

If it slides foward and back, which postition do I lock it in?

Does anyone know how to lock a dizzy. I wouldn't have the slightest clue....

http://www.blairs.co.nz

With the carb, just rip it all off and rip out the butterflies too. Come take a look at mine if you want, that's all I did.

Sounds like it has aye... don't wanna imagine what 2.5" is gonna set me back

There was a post about this a few months back. Get a socket (that you dont need) and bang that hard over it with a hammer. I've been told this way works well. I'm sure others have different ways tho.

I payed $140 for 2" piping, I supplied the extractors, coby and rear dumper. It has gone up at Al's now buy about $100 i think. Buy your mufflers seperately

Why don't you stay mazda and do a 1800 or 1600 dohc turbo engine? Not sure what gearbox you would use tho...

Nah, its a G series. You got 2 guys talking to ya there RT

I'll just roll the car up the drive way a bit and top it up

Well, you shouldn't have to go and take the diff out every time you wanna change the oil. I'll just give it a go and see what happens

So when I take the bolt out, nothing should happen? What's the best way of draining the diff then?

Hey guys, I've almost finished installing my new diff and I wanna replace the oil in it. There is only one bolt on the centre which looks like a plug. If I pull this out will oil come pissing out? Then how do I go about replacing it, is it through the same place? Leon

Hey, For all you who might like to know, I called Snells Springs. They quoted me $198 for a pair of 11mm (i think) thick coil springs or $220 for 14mm thick. I'm not sure how much difference this would make but yeah, that's the prices. Might see about getting some made...

You can buy my diff from me if you want, I guess. It'd help solve some probs...

Speaking of Snells, does anyone know the price they charge to make up custom springs (not leaves), as I'm too lazy to ring them.

Since when were you supercharging the gem?

Hahaha, nah, still good with it on Fuck buying a new filter, the new engine is in soon.

It turns out it was my carb, which was reconned about 3 months ago!! I chucked on another 32/36 from my part car's G200 and its all good now. I even reckon it has more grunt

Well I did when I was checking it, and test driving it. But I put it back on to take to the mechanic. And woop-de-doo, its burnt on the inside. I have just taken it to the mechanics, they are gonna have a look at let me know what is wrong. Hopefully I can fix it myself.

NSA is gonna have a look at it this afternoon. If they can tell me what is wrong, I might be able to fix it, as they prolly wont have time today. Otherwise I'll take it to that race-tuning mate of my dads. He'll be able to sort it out (and chuck the bill to dad on the d-low )

Yeah lots of them aye. Just look on trademe, they are cheap as chips anyway: I tested the fuel pump, and thats fine. Changed the coil and it's still jumping around. I tried to check the 32/36 jets, but I wasnt' too sure what I was looking for; I unscrewed all the little gold bits and checked for blockages, they were sweet. Just gotta change the fuel filter now, and see if that's the problem. Otherwise I guess it's off to the mechanic.